NeoPrimitive Tactical Hawk

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Jan 10, 2010
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A lot of new stuff for me on this one. First attempt at any kind of two part hawk/axe and first time making something 'tactical' that is going into the field soon. I was contacted by a local guy (scout sniper) who is departing for Afghanistan and wanted something with a primitive/frontier feel to it but with modern lines. He really wanted me to do this despite my lack of experience and he wanted as many Northern Wisconsin elements in it as possible. Well I love Winkler's Sayoc hawks... so I kind of used that theme as a jumpstart. But the head is actually an iteration of the 'Francesca' style axe/hawk that has been around for centuries. The leading edge was excellent for both chainmail penetration as well as throwing. I thought it would be a good style for his application. The head is forged from a bar of W2 and then riveted to a leaf spring (from our local iron yard) bar with normalized, high carbon pins. I was nervous that fully hardened pins would be too brittle. I used epoxy between the surfaces to keep out moisture. The wood is Lake Superior 'underwater, old growth' timber that is salvaged by diver's and sunk a couple of hundred years ago. It's hard maple. There is deer rawhide epoxy-soaked wrap and some carving.. both right in the sweet spot for the hand and both provide great grip.

I was a little nervous about how the pins would hold with heavy use but so far, after two days of insanely brutal chopping on frozen red oak... there has been no loosening whatsoever. But the worry is still there and I'm thinking about tapping another hole and putting some wire weld in it.. some kind of insurance. Or I may file out a groove along the seam in the front and put a bit of weld in. Thoughts anybody?

Anyway... I've been so chatty on this because I would like some input from you folk that have more experience with this kind of thing. I think one point of criticism it might get right off the bat is weight. It's 1 3/4 pounds.

Well here it is... 12" handle that is 1/4" thick, 5" long blade that is 1/4" at it's thickest.


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Well this is definitely a rough 'prototype'.... so help me make it better!

(by the way.. the copper pin in the handle was just something to hold it while I tapped the other holes. I will probably put another steel pin there)
 
I don't know much about the mechanics of it all but I do know that it is beautifully done. I like the lines of it. Is there a reason it was done as two pieces as opposed to one if you don't mind my asking?
 
great job!
I wouldn't worry about the pins - normalized sounds like the way to go. We used hardened ground dowel pins when we were doing the Jenny Wrens with composite cores (now full tang) and the pins worked great.
Keep up the good work,
RMJ
 
thanks folks...

I originally thought that doing it two pieces would save me time and effort.. and I thought it would look cool. Which I think it does. But now that I have a press... there is really no reason why I shouldn't take some of my 1"x1" 5160 and just forge out a full tang.

Thanks for the input RMJ.... The first test of this had fully hardened chainsaw files as the rivets.. but they were too brittle and the leading pin broke. I'm not sure what they rockwell those too... but tempering rather than normalizing probably would have been enough... and better. I will have to check out your hawks.. other than the Sayoc and Cold Steel... I haven't seen very many examples of these...
 
Very interesting and VERY cool Scott I love that thing from top to bottom. Great work.

Best regards

Robin
 
I think the pins will be fine. Riveting is an attachment method that's been used in India for weapons for hundreds of years, and I have yet to see an example where the rivets sheared or tore out.
 
Awesome ideas and execution Scott. I also have been a long time admirer of Mr. Winkler and Miss Shooks work.
Always wanted to meet them, they are from my hometown. I have a riveted on 'hawk head, similar but nowhere near as nice, that I have abused for years ( I'm talking abuse like chopping fence wire) with only occasional peening of the pins. These pins were soft quarter inch square that I made rivets out of so something a little harder would probably stop the movement.
Outstanding effort and thank the sniper for his service please.....
 
Just checked out your website Scott, great stuff great photography.

Best regards

Robin
 
thanks folks...

I originally thought that doing it two pieces would save me time and effort.. and I thought it would look cool. Which I think it does. But now that I have a press... there is really no reason why I shouldn't take some of my 1"x1" 5160 and just forge out a full tang.

Beautiful work Scott.....Excellently done!
If you do decide to make a forged full tang version please let me know. I am definitely a customer for one of those...........

Thanks.......Steven
 
thanks folks....

Good to know you haven't had any problems Randy...

Steven... you should send me a PM or email to remind me. Now that I've done this thing I'm starting to get a hankering to do it. I also forgot about the huge chunk of W2 that I have....
 
Steven... you should send me a PM or email to remind me. Now that I've done this thing I'm starting to get a hankering to do it. I also forgot about the huge chunk of W2 that I have....

E-mail is inbound Scott.......Thanks:)
 
That's a great looking hawk. Coolest thing about it all IMO is the Wisconsin material you built in.... gives that thing some spirit.
 
If you were to forge a one piece, could you give it a nice distal taper? I believe that would drastically improve the balance and decrease the weight. E mail en route...
 
Yep... as I said in my email.. the hawk in this thread had a stock removed tang. but if the tang was forged it would be sacrilegious to not put distal taper in it.

Thanks pullrich... I used to do a lot more of that... and hope to add more of those elements in my work since I'm starting to smelt steel from iron ore that just sits around here in piles....
 
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