Nessmuk

J

JWBirch

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Oct 13, 2002
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George Washington "Nessmuk" Sears led a distinguished life that most of us can surely envy. He regularly carried a "trinity" or "trilogy" of blades, a tiny double bitted hatchet for chopping, a thin bladed approximately 9" camp knife for camp chores, and a double bladed folder for strings and daily duties.
http://outdoors-magazine.com/s_article.php?id_article=179
http://www.oldjimbo.com/survival/racquette/nessmukbydale.html

My "Nessmuk" camp-chore knife is hands down the Howling Rat. The chopper and folder/leatherman may change relative to the environment, but the HR's comfortable size, and usable blade design make it my perfect camping knife. The way the edge extends lower than the handle allowing you to prep food on a board... It is comfortable regular or reverse grip, it will hold an edge very well, give a lot more lateral strength than you'd get in a super thin blade without sacrificing much fine slicing ability. The substantial choil lets you get in close for super fine work. For tactical environments I may choose a more purpose built knife, but for the woods I just can't beat the HR.
It isn't very often that I come across something that doesn't need any improvement, so I figured I'd celebrate a bit. It's a privilage to own one.

Besides, everyone should be familiar with Nessmuk's work! I really like his philosophy of taking tools and equipment, but not using them unless absolutely necessary. Like why chop wood for a shelter when you can scavenge for it... Eventually those ideas can lead to a very light pack in many environments.

Any other Nessmuk ideas out there?
Or what SRKW blade covers one or more of your personal "Nessmuk Trilogy"?
 
I love the HR, and generally agree on it being one of the best designs ever.

Thanks for sharing the info on Nessmuk. It is very interesting and has some great groundroots value.:thumbup:
 
JWBirch said:
Like why chop wood for a shelter when you can scavenge for it.
Click to expand...

It is many times faster usually and most current cutlery choices are based more on survival vs wood craft which is a very difference senario. I like the Mora 2000 as that general style of knife and combined with the Bruks Wildlife hatchet makes a pair for most thick wood work. I would generally favor a long blade to handle brush but it depends on your enviroment. Chopping tool selection is very specific to wood type, on the wrong wood an axe can be unproductive and dangerous.

-Cliff
 
In the Nessmuk spirit, out of my collection of cheesy ;) knives......

Res C handles:
Howler
Ratchet
Battle Rat

Micarta Handles
Rat Hunter
No hatchetlike object so....
Ratwieler is gonna have to pull double duty
 
One thing that kinda would go against the HR being in the Nessmuk mold is that Nessmuk was fairly specific that he liked a thin bladed knife. In fact despite it's unusual shape, the only thing he really saw fit to mention in his book about it was that the blade was thin.
 
This was likely due to the balance and edge geometry of larger knives rather than the stock thickness itself. In many cases such generalizations are often attributed to the wrong aspects. You can get superb wood working blades out of very thick steel as long as they taper to fine edges. Similar with the feel of bowies in the hand when they have the correct balance for the user. The only real concern for outdoors for thick blades would be cutting through thick tubers and similar where you would see binding across the spine. Of course if you don't want/need the thickness for strength then there is no real reason to have it.

-Cliff
 
that's why 3/16" feels good for the woods. Most of my combat blades, even the 9-10" ones are .220 or better, but they wouldn't work nearly as well in the woods or kitchen.

I guess my "Nessmuk Trilogy" for the National Forrests would be a GB Wildlife, SRKW Howling Rat, CRK Sebenza, and a leatherman tool. Yeah, that's four, but I'm too lazy to go digging in a pouch sheath when a clipped in folder is so easy to carry.

The Wildlife could be replaced with a Steel Heart, Heavy Heart, or Battle Mistress, the Sebenza could be replaced with a SnG or UMS, the Leatherman tool could be replaced with a SAK, but the HR seems to be the perfect middle element that doesn't change with the locale or activity.
 
JWB - After reading some of your posts, I've really come to respect your 'hawk/axe experience. Based on this post, I think I'm gonna have to check out a Gransfor Wildlife.

Someone should do a sticky primer on axe/hatchet/hawks on the subforum - I'll nominate you! :thumbup:
 
Thanks for the compliment, but most of my experience is with stuff that has no place in the woods. That has given me an appreciation for quality goods, however. Check out this page before you spring that money.
http://outdoors-magazine.com/s_topic.php?id_rubrique=20
I got the Wildlife because I felt like supporting handmade gear, not specifically because it works better than any other brand (although I'm personally convinced it'll work better than most). Like Clif says, different geometries are better for different woods. My wildlife should serve me well, but if you know what woods you'll be travelling in you could do better, or worse of course. For some people the Fiskars can be a great axe. Please buy because you've found that you can't do better, then, among other things, you'll only have yourself to blame when the next best thing comes out :)

Happy hunting!
 
JWBirch said:
Most of my combat blades, even the 9-10" ones are .220 or better, but they wouldn't work nearly as well in the woods or kitchen.
Click to expand...

Your Wildlife hatchet is much thicker than 0.220" thick at the poll, how does that work in the woods? Most combat knives don't have the edges ground optimally for wood working. Specifically the edges are usually 20-25 degrees per side and you want more like 10-15 for most woods. The edge are also usually thicker than necessary, about 0.025-0.030" is enough for *really* heavy wood work and many tactical knives can climb over 0.050".

-Cliff
 
JWBirch said:
Please buy because you've found that you can't do better, then, among other things, you'll only have yourself to blame when the next best thing comes out :)
Click to expand...

Don't worry, bro. No responsibility for an impulse purchase, here. ;) But your comments WERE responsible for me finding out more about it.

Seriously, thanks for the 'hawk/axe reviews. :thumbup:
 
My favorite woods knife is 3/32(the one on Top)

I think it slices better than my thicker blades (the ones below) or my Fallkniven F1 which is pretty thick also. I've never messed with a Howling Rat, but will have one very soon (thanks 360!) so I can compare.

handful.jpg
 
Cliff Stamp said:
Of course if you don't want/need the thickness for strength then there is no real reason to have it.
-Cliff
Click to expand...

Right. Since I use my hatchet mostly for chopping (which is what Nessmuk did supposedly) my thinner blade works fine for the things I use it for.:thumbup:
 
I generally go fairly light on secondary blades as well. I like some rigidity for wood working, something similar to the Mora 2000 is enough.

-Cliff
 
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