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Neutral balance
- Thread starter +ulfberh+
- Start date
Comprehensivist
Platinum Member
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- Aug 23, 2008
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- 3,211
Hi Ulfberh,
I saw your comment earlier this month on my post in the “Models, Tang Types, Steel Thicknesses, & Weights” thread where I discussed my preference for a neutrally balanced knife if possible. My collection has changed a lot since that post and I am working on a new thread with updates in the near future.
Since each Fiddleback is handmade and unique, there are slight to significant variations even in the same model that effect balance. Steel thicknesses, tang types, handle materials, grind height, and final handle shape all contribute to this equation. This means that there are no “standard” models or individual features that guarantee what you are looking for.
For example, here are two Bushfingers that were made less than a month apart earlier this year. The top one is 1/8” O1 with a tapered tang and the bottom one is 5/32” O1 SFT with a thicker handle. These are not going to balance the same.
I use the first set of pins as my reference point for determining neutral balance on many models.
Most 3” and 4” models will balance somewhere between the first and second sets of pins.
Here is a Patch with 1/8” SFT that shows a balance point typical of most 3” models that I have tried.
Here is a Bushcrafter (thicker handle) with 1/8” O1 SFT that shows a balance point typical of many 4” models that I have tried.
My experience with the 5” models is that they have the best chance of being neutrally balanced, especially with a tapered tang.
Here is the best balanced knife that I own, a Big Sneaky with 5/32” O1 & tapered tang.
I’ll have more detail later when I finish the draft of my larger collection analysis.
In the meantime, look for the following features to increase your changes of getting the neutral balance that you desire:
1) Tapered tangs definitely help to move the balance forward. In my experience the forward change ranges from 1/8” to 3/8” depending on steel thickness.
2) Look for models where the blade portion is longer and/or taller than the handle with a 2/3 to 3/4 height grind. This combination with have enough metal out front to offset the weight of the handle.
Here is a Camp Nessie with 5/32” tapered tang to show what I am talking about.
I hope that some of this helps you with the search for your perfect Fiddleback. Good luck.
Phil
I saw your comment earlier this month on my post in the “Models, Tang Types, Steel Thicknesses, & Weights” thread where I discussed my preference for a neutrally balanced knife if possible. My collection has changed a lot since that post and I am working on a new thread with updates in the near future.
Since each Fiddleback is handmade and unique, there are slight to significant variations even in the same model that effect balance. Steel thicknesses, tang types, handle materials, grind height, and final handle shape all contribute to this equation. This means that there are no “standard” models or individual features that guarantee what you are looking for.
For example, here are two Bushfingers that were made less than a month apart earlier this year. The top one is 1/8” O1 with a tapered tang and the bottom one is 5/32” O1 SFT with a thicker handle. These are not going to balance the same.
I use the first set of pins as my reference point for determining neutral balance on many models.
Most 3” and 4” models will balance somewhere between the first and second sets of pins.
Here is a Patch with 1/8” SFT that shows a balance point typical of most 3” models that I have tried.
Here is a Bushcrafter (thicker handle) with 1/8” O1 SFT that shows a balance point typical of many 4” models that I have tried.
My experience with the 5” models is that they have the best chance of being neutrally balanced, especially with a tapered tang.
Here is the best balanced knife that I own, a Big Sneaky with 5/32” O1 & tapered tang.
I’ll have more detail later when I finish the draft of my larger collection analysis.
In the meantime, look for the following features to increase your changes of getting the neutral balance that you desire:
1) Tapered tangs definitely help to move the balance forward. In my experience the forward change ranges from 1/8” to 3/8” depending on steel thickness.
2) Look for models where the blade portion is longer and/or taller than the handle with a 2/3 to 3/4 height grind. This combination with have enough metal out front to offset the weight of the handle.
Here is a Camp Nessie with 5/32” tapered tang to show what I am talking about.
I hope that some of this helps you with the search for your perfect Fiddleback. Good luck.
Phil
Last edited:
Mistwalker
Gold Member
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- Dec 22, 2007
- Messages
- 19,037
I can't find the photo that illustrates it at the moment, but the tapered 5/32 Woodsman has a perfect neutral balance and handles great.
.
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- Dec 13, 2013
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- 2,394
To echo what Phil & Brian have said (spot-on), I threw this together in excel in about 5 minutes, to provide more of a theoretical wag at this question. Please see below for a typical "radar chart" that outlines 4 typical attributes that would affect balance. Note that I based this on a simple 1-3 scale, where for each attribute listed, the sub attributes can be applied in descending order (3,2,1) to come up with a general / theoretical idea of how a knife's attributes would affect its balance. Now please note that this is a 50,000' approach to this question, and individual results will vary based upon specific material types, tolerances, etc. In the end, you can try to combine all of the good advice you have received thus far with the basic theory I illustrate below to hypothesize what a specific knife's balance "might" be like... YMMV, but good luck.
And yes, a 5/32" TT woodsman (or big sneaky) is probably the quintessential example of a profile that "can" afford near perfectly neutral balance
Note: There are 81 possible permutations here (3[SUP]4[/SUP]) -- the answer to neutrality is not mid-height grind, SFT, stabilized wood, equal blade/handle bias (i.e. 2,2,2,2); instead this is just a generalization of neutrality based on my 1,2,3 attribute scale.
And yes, a 5/32" TT woodsman (or big sneaky) is probably the quintessential example of a profile that "can" afford near perfectly neutral balance
Note: There are 81 possible permutations here (3[SUP]4[/SUP]) -- the answer to neutrality is not mid-height grind, SFT, stabilized wood, equal blade/handle bias (i.e. 2,2,2,2); instead this is just a generalization of neutrality based on my 1,2,3 attribute scale.
Last edited:
Comprehensivist
Platinum Member
- Joined
- Aug 23, 2008
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- 3,211
Brian & Will,
You guys are making me want to try another Woodsman with TT & 5/32" O1. I have a weakness for the 5" models and those two are superb examples of an all-around knife.
Thanks,
Phil
You guys are making me want to try another Woodsman with TT & 5/32" O1. I have a weakness for the 5" models and those two are superb examples of an all-around knife.
Thanks,
Phil
- Joined
- Mar 13, 2006
- Messages
- 13,878
The way they get made it can vary on 2 knives of the same model.
When the holes are drilled we have a certain amount of lightening holes "we like" to get on whatever blade length.
For whatever reason that sometimes doesn't not pan out the way we want. If you are doing a "trinity" pin out you have to be aware of you placement near those holes depending on the width of the handle.It might only be slight variation but they sometimes do occur
When the holes are drilled we have a certain amount of lightening holes "we like" to get on whatever blade length.
For whatever reason that sometimes doesn't not pan out the way we want. If you are doing a "trinity" pin out you have to be aware of you placement near those holes depending on the width of the handle.It might only be slight variation but they sometimes do occur