Neutralizing after maker's mark etch?

[Mitchell Knives]

I've been applying my maker's mark using the standard electro-chemical etch method. Zero issues until now.

After etching, I apply neutralizer over the makers mark as suggested in the directions to prevent rust. This is the neutralizer that came with the etcher. I also oil the knife afterwards.

A customer received his knife today, and there was light rust around the maker's mark. I apparently did not completely neutralize the solution. I've never had this problem before, so I was kind of shocked.

What are you guys using for neutralizer?

I'll probably start neutralizing 2 or 3 times just to make sure this doesn't happen again.

 

[Matt Brook]

I use rinse under warm water. Spray with windex then oil or wax.

 

[mete]

Boil in a solution of baking soda ,that's what damascus makers do .

 

[Mitchell Knives]

Boil in a solution of baking soda ,that's what damascus makers do .

I understand the baking soda, but what does boiling it do?

 

[RyanW]

Windex is the same as the stuff you get from the solution company... I use a soft nylon toothbrush with the Windex afterwords, then Oil well. I have done the boiling in baking soda, I believe the boiling just helps it penetrate cracks and keeps the baking soda in a solution instead of settling on the bottom of the pot.

 

[Mitchell Knives]

Windex is the same as the stuff you get from the solution company...

Thanks Ryan!

You're using the Ammonia based Windex correct?

I don't know why I didn't use that...I already use it to neutralize FC.

 

[RyanW]

yep you can actually use straight amonia, but that is just nasty and more expensive. I dunk my FC in it as well :thumbup:

 

[jonnymac44]

Yep, I'm with ryan. I use ammonia based windex for neutralizing my etches and blades after an acid wash. Works really well.

 

[Mitchell Knives]

Thanks guys!

I'll just use Windex from now on. I'm running out of the factory stuff anyway.

I guess I got stingy with the neutralizer, and left some on there.

You could tell exactly where I taped the stencil on by the rust pattern!

 

[jonnymac44]

Thanks guys!

I'll just use Windex from now on. I'm running out of the factory stuff anyway.

I guess I got stingy with the neutralizer, and left some on there.

You could tell exactly where I taped the stencil on by the rust pattern!

Jonathan,
I'm not sure about you, but this the reason I always etch blades before attaching handles now. If I have a problem with any bleeding of the etch, or a rust spot, or a bad etch in general, which I'm very capable of doing, I just put that blade back on the platen and sand the flat really quick to give myself a fresh canvas. You could do twenty etches to make sure you've got it just right if you want! It makes dealing with a bad etch so much easier. When I attach my handle scales, the front taper of the scales is already finished to final grit and I'm working near the etch at all. It stays taped up and protected during handle finishing and I'm good to go.

 

[Josh Mason]

+1 on the windex. I spray the hell out of the blade and rub it in there with my finger to make sure none of that solution is still there. I'll shoot it pretty heavy again, and then with WD-40 until I'm ready to put a handle on it.

I'm not sure if anyone else does this, but I never cut my stencils out in little rectangles from the sheet that comes from Ernie. I lay the whole dang sheet out, pick a stencil, tape up the edges and get it as flat as possible. I hold down some spots with my fingers to keep it flat, and just go for it. I tried cutting out little squares, and I got black lines all the way around the thing, even with tape around it. Never had a problem doing the full sheet method.

 

[Battle Creek Knives]

Yep, I'm with ryan. I use ammonia based windex for neutralizing my etches and blades after an acid wash. Works really well.

I would think that baking soda or soda ash would be a better candidate to neutralize an acid wash, I've never done a blade but I've worked with multiple acid's in other applications and I've always used soda ash per manufacturers specs.. but I have no idea about metal, still learning all I can..

also windex is an inexpensive solution in the bag of tricks..

how about salt water opposed to etching solution??

 

[Battle Creek Knives]

I'm not sure if anyone else does this, but I never cut my stencils out in little rectangles from the sheet that comes from Ernie.

how big are the sheets that come from ernie??

 

[Frank Niro]

Ernie does a great job on the stencils ! they are quality and are reasonably priced. I use a solution of baking soda and water to neutrilize my damascus etching.

 

[Josh Mason]

how big are the sheets that come from ernie??

not real sure. Off the top of my head maybe 5x10?

He put a lot of stencils of my logo, and several stencils of the common steel types I use on one sheet for about $50. Really cool deal.

 

[Daniel Fairly Knives]

Stock neutralizer, reverse osmosis water, more stock neutralizer, more RO water then windex or pure ammonia. After that I usually soak the knife in Ballistol. Overkill but no rust so far.