New and improved Wicked Edge

B

beltman

Joined
Dec 27, 2010
Messages
17
I bought a Wicked Edge about 2 weeks ago and I love it.That said their are some improvements that I am going to make. First let me say that what I do is for my personal use and I will not make any for sale. I own a cnc machine shop and I like to tinker. The thing I dont like about the Wicked Edge is the slop in the rod that the stone rides up and down on. All this slop can change the angle by as much as 2 or 3 deg depending on how you hold the stone. I am going to make a new holder using a big chunk of alum and 5/8 rod ends. In the rod ends will be .261 dia 10 in long shaft for the stones to ride up and down on. Again let me say this will not be for sale... pictures will come in the next couple of weeks.
 
dude.....I was just thinking the same thing!!!!

I have a wicked edge and I have no idea what he is talking about with "slop" mine is a smooth as velvet.
 
what does being a newcomer have to do with it. I will post a picture on Monday of what I am talking about. I am not trying to bash anything or anyone.I am just trying to make a great product better.
 
beltman said:
what does being a newcomer have to do with it. I will post a picture on Monday of what I am talking about. I am not trying to bash anything or anyone.I am just trying to make a great product better.
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Don't worry about it man you know how it is whenever somebody new comes around people assume they don't know anything and are here to troll. Look forward to seeing your results which will hopefully include pictures???
 
no offense intended but this is the first time anyone has ever brought that up. I have not heard of any "slop" in the fittings....not even sure I know what you are referring to.
 
I don't have a wicked edge, but if the slop isn't normal then it could be a warranty issue? worth checking out. Not to discourage you from playing around. Welcome to the forums by the way.
 
First let me say again I am not here to bash or be a troll. I own a machine shop and I have 23 years on the job. I deal with tolerances like .0002 so when something is not perfect it drives me crazy. What I am going to make would cost way to much to sell. But my time is free.
 
I'm with you Beltman! I see where it is weak. I didn't know about the rod/hole slack but I see other issues. The swivel, at least based upon their own pictures has much slack in it.

Furthermore, I'd prefer not to have diamond stones.

3rd, It apparently will not go down to 12 degrees or below. For any of us with Japanese kitchen knives this presents a problem.

Lastly a fully outfitted unit is $350 or more...there is reason to have expectation.

Yet, I believe it to be the best alternative out there. A blade held steady IS the ideal way for the blade to be finished. Doing both edges at once...it's not necessary. In fact, for a poorly conditioned knife, how will you ever know when you raise a burr? Right...you won't. Heck, you wouldn't with a knife in excellent condition.

I own an EP, have since it hit the market. I'm pleased yet I would choose many changes/improvements. First being that the body not be made of plastic. There are others as well. The second, most obvious is the different thickness' of the stones. This is just unacceptable. Boride makes a line of exceptional Silicone Carbide stones that are all the same thickness. Actually, all their lines can be ordered at a 1/4" thckness. Why skimp on 1/16th of an inch?

I'm building my own version of the WE as well. I'm just making corrections as I see them and to use stones and not diamonds. I already have received most of the supplies. The Boride SIC stones are exceptional from my perspective. I'm also using solid Carbon Graphite for the pivot. That is the weak link of this system from my perspective. I'm also using SS for a number of parts they are currently using Aluminum.

What's more I'm incorporating the serration sharpening system that ChangeOfSeasons presented here as part of my own system. He has been gracious enough to advise me as I've proceeded.

I have almost everything to start building a few. I had a thread shut down because it appeared I was going to sell them. Let me assure you, with the materials I'm using there is no way to adequately profit. Unfortunately my sarcasm was misinterpreted.

I did have to buy the stones by the dozen, but it was well worth it. Much cheaper and I think I'll gift any remaining units to those who let me hunt their land.

I wish you well and I wish I had your machinist's experience (and equipment) to help me through the process.

Best of luck
 
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Emerald said:
Doing both edges at once...it's not necessary. In fact, for a poorly conditioned knife, how will you ever know when you raise a burr? Right...you won't. Heck, you wouldn't with a knife in excellent condition.
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*Just a quick note here* When you're initially setting the edge, the most efficient technique w/ the WEPS is to alternate strokes until the scratch pattern appears to approach the edge. You can use a Sharpie to make it easier to see if necessary. Once you feel you're near the edge, you concentrate on one side only, counting your strokes. After a specified number of strokes (the actual number is arbitrary, just one you can duplicate on the opposite side) you check for a burr. Regardless of whether you find a burr, you switch sides and do the same number of strokes. Before long, you will detect a burr which should be verified to run the entire length of the blade. Switch sides again and draw a burr from that side. Once you've drawn a burr from each side, you can return to alternating strokes and continue with that technique as you progress through the stones and the strops. It is not necessary to draw a burr with each successive grit.​
 
Emerald said:
3rd, It apparently will not go down to 12 degrees or below. For any of us with Japanese kitchen knives this presents a problem.
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The lowest degree markings are currently 15°. With minimal effort I've been very successful taking blades down to much lower angles. The greatest limiting factor is the width of the blade. Most of the Japanese blades I've sharpened are wide enough to get down to 12° or below.​
 
Emerald said:
I'm also using SS for a number of parts they are currently using Aluminum.
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A lot of your observations are very good. SS parts are in the works for the Wicked Edge as we speak. They will be available as upgrades to any current WEPS customers sometime this summer (with luck.) I'm always trying to improve the mousetrap but also trying to balance performance with affordability.​
 
Clay...thank you for coming here and presenting your perspective. I'm sorry if I hit a delicate nerve. Not intended.

At the same time these units are approaching the price of a Tormek. The Tormek is still considered the Gold Standard in sharpening. I've been close to buying one often through this quest for a better edge on my cutting tools. Keep in mind, it comes with a motor. That is a considerable underlying cost from a fabrication standpoint. This alone makes the Tormek a value not to be ignored.

The angle does matter. And, yes, there are many Japanese knives that are thin enough to cause a problem. I bought (as gifts) several from Jantz to build that are .078" thick. Forged Damascus. Utterly georgeous blades. Matched with G10 make them lifetime cutting tools. Yet, how will they be maintained sharp? That's part of my process here. 10 Degrees will not be uncommon with these blades. And, many others to follow.

I'm glad to hear you have upgrades coming. I would strongly consider the WE had I not invested for an improved and more varied machine. The tutorial that ChangeOfSeasons wrote on serration sharpening should have impacted you and other manufacturers. He developed a good system that someone should be incorporating into their system.

As of this time, the available serration sharpening systems are pitiful. Not that it's not out there for you. You all see the need...yet...no solutions. You could make money on a thought out offering. This forum has some great ideas and some folks who really think through the process. I'm glad to see you're listening.

As for the SS, hope to see it. Yet the cost differential shouldn't be much. It sure isn't for me.

It's the pivot that's going to be your problem. I'm sure you'll figure that out.

Thanks Clay and good luck!
 
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beltman said:
I bought a Wicked Edge about 2 weeks ago and I love it.That said their are some improvements that I am going to make. First let me say that what I do is for my personal use and I will not make any for sale. I own a cnc machine shop and I like to tinker. The thing I dont like about the Wicked Edge is the slop in the rod that the stone rides up and down on. All this slop can change the angle by as much as 2 or 3 deg depending on how you hold the stone. I am going to make a new holder using a big chunk of alum and 5/8 rod ends. In the rod ends will be .261 dia 10 in long shaft for the stones to ride up and down on. Again let me say this will not be for sale... pictures will come in the next couple of weeks.
Click to expand...

Damn, I envy you to have access to such equipment. I own an Edge Pro and am in the planning stages for several mods that will require a machine shop. I'll PM you with some other questions so as not to violate any rules against business dealing.
 
Let me say again the reason I started this post is to talk about how to make this great device better. I am not looking for work. I have more than I can handle. This is just a hobby. I will post some pictures on Monday or Tuesday. And I would like to any ideas please no bashing
 
Emerald said:
Clay...thank you for coming here and presenting your perspective. I'm sorry if I hit a delicate nerve. Not intended.

At the same time these units are approaching the price of a Tormek. The Tormek is still considered the Gold Standard in sharpening. I've been close to buying one often through this quest for a better edge on my cutting tools. Keep in mind, it comes with a motor. That is a considerable underlying cost from a fabrication standpoint. This alone makes the Tormek a value not to be ignored.

The angle does matter. And, yes, there are many Japanese knives that are thin enough to cause a problem. I bought (as gifts) several from Jantz to build that are .078" thick. Forged Damascus. Utterly georgeous blades. Matched with G10 make them lifetime cutting tools. Yet, how will they be maintained sharp? That's part of my process here. 10 Degrees will not be uncommon with these blades. And, many others to follow.

I'm glad to hear you have upgrades coming. I would strongly consider the WE had I not invested for an improved and more varied machine. The tutorial that ChangeOfSeasons wrote on serration sharpening should have impacted you and other manufacturers. He developed a good system that someone should be incorporating into their system.

As of this time, the available serration sharpening systems are pitiful. Not that it's not out there for you. You all see the need...yet...no solutions. You could make money on a thought out offering. This forum has some great ideas and some folks who really think through the process. I'm glad to see you're listening.

As for the SS, hope to see it. Yet the cost differential shouldn't be much. It sure isn't for me.

It's the pivot that's going to be your problem. I'm sure you'll figure that out.

Thanks Clay and good luck!
Click to expand...

Do you have a link for changeofseason's tutorial? I've got a serrated solution coming out soon, but I'd love to know what he's done as well.
 
Here are some pics of what I did. I used some 5/8 rod ends and put in .261 dia rods to fit the stones better. The amount of error in the Wicked Edge doesnt seem like alot but the rod ends make it perfect.IMG_4762.jpg

IMG_4758.jpg

IMG_4755.jpg

IMG_4756.jpg
 
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