new at collecting custom. . . what should I look for?

Joined
Oct 13, 1999
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567
After buying factory knives for years, I'm just starting to buy custom-made knives as well. I'd appreciate tips on what to look for when I pick up someone's work at a show, as well as what questions to ask the maker. Even my untrained, non-knifemaker's eye can see high quality in the attention to detail on the more expensive knives, as well as gross defects on cheap knives. But if I assembled 10 different makers of e.g. drop point hunters in the $100-250 range, what should stand out to me?
 
I have collected knives for over twenty years before taking the plunge into knifemaking.
I always collected what I liked, this way I felt that I could never get hurt, because a maker knife didn't increase in value like I thought. This is my advice! But listen to other and than make your own decision.
Rene
www.geocities.com/roy_knives/blades.html

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If at first you do succeed, buy more knifemaking equipment!
 
Seems to me the criteria of interest would be: fit, finish, materials used, personal appeal of the design and maybe suitability for use.

Given the price range you quote, you'll see variations in all these attributes.

Fit will go from obvious and inconsistent gaps between handle material and fittings to consistent lines or no apparent transitions. Grinds will go from not centred, to perfectly so. Grind lines will show some variation side to side, or be completely symetrical. The knife will come with a loose, generic sheath at the low end to a tight, secure sheath in the better examples. The sheath may be kydex or leather.

Finish is probably the the area for the greatest variation. There are machine applied finishes and hand finishes, and these may be used in combination on the same knife. Machine applied blade finishes are straight from the belt (usually parallel lines), bead blasted (funtional but ugh!), "stonewashed" (comes from tumble deburring technology that's been used for eons in machine shops to deburr parts cheaply, remember this - cheaply)) or buffer generated satin or mirror finishes. You can look for consistency in any of these finishes and if they have reduced the crispness of the grind lines. Always interesting to look for deep scratches and steel grain in the buffer applied finishes. Both conditions are indicative of skipped steps in the operations prior to buffing. Look for scratches and hollows in the handle material (usually buffed over). Look for scratches in the ends of the pins securing the scales (if present). The hand applied fifish is hand rubbed, generally parallel to the edge. The higher end will typically have finer grit finishes, no start and stop marks, swirls, or wiggly lines.

As far as materials used: blade steel is an obvious consideration and really depends on the tastes of the maker and you. You do need to expect to pay more for Talonite or Stellite. The handle is where you will encounter lots of variation. Micarta is tough, stag is pretty, so are the stabilised woods. Natural wood has charm of it's own, but as Les and others say, there are resale considerations. Pakkawood/Dymondwood may appear at the low end. It's a practical choice, but tends to be hideous. The monochrome variants, particularly cocobolo are nicest. Pricewise, you'll likely see this progression: Pakkawood, natural wood, buffalo horn, micarta, and then stag and the stabilised woods. Ramshorn, and fossil ivory may be out of this price range.

As far as personal appeal of the design is concerned - that's up to you. I would recommend however, that you get a copy of "The Cutting Edge" from AG Russell. Whenever I am at a show I pick up a copy from Paul Basche and cheque out the black and white ads. There are BUCKETSFULL of ugly knives for sale on the secondary market. The important lesson here is that someone must have liked them well enough at one time. So will the knife maintain its appeal? Personally, I think that a Loveless dropped hunter is a real work of functional modern art. But in yellow linen micarta from 1971, even it looks like a toy.

Suitability for use is tough to judge, particularly if you won't be using the knife. I suppose if it comes with a shoulder harness or a sawback it would be less usefull. Part of the ongoing popularity of the Loveless drop point is that it is a completely practical design (not to discount all the hype and hoopla over the past 20-30 years).


Seems to me that at the low end of the price range functionality should be the primary consideration with materials and execution becoming increasingly important as you move up the range.

Sorry for rambling, and of course this is all very much IMHO (and reflects my own tastes and style I suppose).


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www.planet.eon.net/~matth
matth@planet.eon.net
 
I would agree with matt....buy what you like, thats the main criteria...after you are in the groove with that one...it becomes a matter of what you can afford....and then with that settled you can focus on a lot of the things matt has already gone over... obviously you want the best product for the best price...that is basic human nature.. everyone wants that.... the eye is a very discerning organ....look at a lot of knives, look at ones you dont even care for, look for mistakes, look for perfection...i get all the knife mags...and although i may not read one article (usually i dont) i look at ALL the picture...some knives just hit me square...they appeal to me in a big way... a lot i do not like...the shape...the execution of the handle or the guard...it takes time...but do your homework and you will get rewarded for it, and above all dont be afraid to ask questions.

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http://www.mayoknives.com


 
The best custom knives to collect are the ones that
1.)work
2.)you like
3.) hold their value
Definitely worth checking into Mad Dog Knives.The only defamation I have ever heard of those has been from other knifemakers wanting to compare their offerings.You can check out pictures at www.mdenterprise.com and www.tactec.net They cost a little more but from what i've seen they are worth it.

[This message has been edited by 4Dcheap (edited 30 October 1999).]
 
Summerland,

A few things to consider,

First, spend some time reading some magazines and books. Surf the web and attend at least one show. Compare several makers before you buy your first knife.

Most new makers are inclined to want to just rush out and buy something. I did that, made several mistakes.

Second, buy the best you can afford. Whether that is $120 or $220.00.

Third, get to know the makers and how they build their knives and as Matt suggested materials used can have a big impact on the price.

As for Mad Dog holding their price, this does not seem to be the case. A forum member had a Tusk ($1,000 retail) that was finally sold for $580.00. There is also a SAS that does not seem to be moving well. Recently, Kevin has taken quite a bit of flack from the forum over his decision to not honor his "unconditional guarantee". Whatever his reason's, unconditional means just what it says.

Kevin has a very loyal support base, much like Phil Hartsfield. Phil has announced that he will no longer do work on any of his knives that are not purchased from him. This will not bode well for Phil long term and will decrease further the prices his knives will bring in the aftermarket. Kevin not honoring his unconditional guarantee (like I said he may have a several reasons/excuses, but he is the one who gave his knives no room for error). This will have a negative impact long term on his work. That coupled with the fact that two of his "premium" pieces did not get their owners what they paid for them does not help his knives in the aftermarket.

Not trying to start flame wars just pointing out some facts that will impact on a makers position in the market.

Les
 
First, knives are not the pinnacle of an investment vehicle, no matter what you are told ! Buy your knives to enjoy,and use. Knife functions, let you meet many talents, and some fine people, that will enrich your life.Collect what you like, and can afford. If you can break even, you still have your original investment, plus the knowledge you have gained, and the people you have met.In all, not a bad deal, but you have the loss of use of your money if you just break even.

FO
 
Summerland,

You have received lots of good advice. I agree with Les about aquiring knowledge. Buy the book and then buy the knife. Look, read and learn. And as advised---never buy a knife purely for investment for you will surely be disappointed.

Good luck with your collecting endeavors.
 
To all who have answered, a BIG thank you! And thanks to BF for making this format for discussion possible. One of the things that makes knife collecting/using so fun is the chance to learn from the experience of others.

Regards,
 
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