New axe just finished

Chris Montgomery

Chris Montgomery

Joined
Dec 8, 2011
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I just finished this one that is headed to knife maker buddy of mine in Missouri. His name is Kevin Evans and I am gifting this to him because he has been very generous in helping me in my pursuit of learning how to make different styles of knives. He hasn't seen it yet and I do hope he enjoys it and will use it in good health for years to come.

Back with images in a minute.

Chris
 
Now for some pics.
9532520683_78f654cc4c_z.jpg

1#13oz head on a 16" kiln dried hickory handle. I have been buying hickory planks from a hardwood supply store and shaping my handle from them.
9535308160_d893cfc8e8_z.jpg

You can see some of the weld but it will not affect the axes performance.
9532523603_c92a554044_z.jpg

Any comments, critiques or advice is welcomed.

Chris
 
Very nice! How do you get the steel on the top of the head to look so nice!?!

I'm continually impressed by your stuff! =)
 
Thanks gents. Per my usual this is a mild steel bodied axe hand forged with a 5160 carbon steel bit set in when its wraped and welded.
Jon, I use a belt grinder for the finished portions. I start with 36 grit then move up to 120 prior to heat treating it. After heat treat its just clean up with 120-360 grit. The handle I use a hand saw and small camp axe until its rough shaped. Then I go to the belt grinder again and hand finish.

Chris
 
Thanks Chris! One last question (promise), what type belts do you recommend for the heavy removal like reprofiling? 60-80ish grit, but what type/brand? I can't seem to get one that lasts more than one axe head (refurbishing vintages ones that stay wet through all of the belt grinding to protect the heat treat as much as possible.).

Hope I'm not hijacking the thread too bad, I just think my our work is beautiful and want to copy you ;)

Thanks!!
Jon
 
Jon I will gladly answer any question I can. What kind of grinder set up do you have? I can answer as to how I do things but that doesn't make it the best way, just what works for me.

Chris
 
I have no experience with a 1X42" grinder. My setup is 2"X72". I have heard that the belts that size are not very durable for heavy jobs. Are your belts wearing out or are they coming apart? If they are coming apart you could try to get some industrial strength tape on the back to reinforce it. I looked at Norton's site and didn't see any belts that size.

Chris
 
Looks good.
You can see some of the weld but it will not affect the axes performance
Click to expand...
I don't think it will affect the performance either. But, do you think tig welding the weld line before heat treating would show up after ground ? Just blending with the torch- no filler.
 
It probably would camouflage the weld. I have seen a couple of really old axes that showed in much the same manor. Its pretty hard to get them perfect every time. Is the weld showing the small amount it does problematic if its just cosmetic? To cover it with a modern weld takes away from it on a forge finished piece to me. But I definitely have my take on things and want to hear others take on it. Perhaps I would feel different if I saw the same piece from another perspective. Thanks.

Chris
 
Chris,
Maybe I do see things differently lol. To me- If I had to explain to everyone who saw that weld flaw that it will not affect the performance- it would bug the shit out of me. I'm no expert and don't believe every forge weld will be perfect every time.
I don't see the fusing of a seam as Camouflage. The area in question has been ground so that doesn't take away from the forge finish in my mind.
I'm sure your friend will appreciate it, I did a search on him and he make very nice knives. He will realize the time and effort that went into making the hatchet and handle from scratch.
I'm asking your opinion about re-welding because I want to learn. My one experience in forge welding was when I decided to make myself a wedding ring.
I'm not in the habit of wearing jewelry, decided to make one that would mean something to me. Went ok....had a delamination when finishing it on a mandrel. It wears fine - but that crack bugs me every time I wear it. I don't think the tig fix would work on a Damascus ring- would be interested if it could be done invisibly elsewhere.
Here's the ring before deeper etching and polish....and crack lol
take care
ry%3D400
 
By pointing it out I didn't intend for it to be seen as a flaw but as evidence of the constrution method. I probably should have worded it different. To me its a tool. If I thought it were a flaw I wouldn't gift it or show it. I can see how it might be a bother to some. I do try to make every weld hide, but the reality is some don't show until they are hardened. The one at the front of the eye could have been filed out but I didn't see the need. If the weld showed along the bit on the cutting-edge I would feel that is a flaw.

I may try to stick weld one to hide the weld one in the future. Thanks for giving me your perspective. I do appreciate it.

Chris
 
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Great looking axe Chris. You're buddy is lucky to get a tool he will be proud of the rest of his life. I wish I had your skills. I've often thought of getting a forge and steel working tools. I have been watching a talented blacksmith at our local historic skills fair. It looks like a lot of fun and is really a useful skill. It would be something i would be interested in doing after retirement. I'd be interested in hearing what tools you use to do such nice work.

It would be cool if you could figure out a way to mark your tools so they could be identified by maker. I'm sure a roll stamper would be expensive but it would be great if you could find a way to mark them. When I was refinishing the Falls City in the "What Did You Rehang Today" thread, I noticed a small 8 near the bottom part of the eye. I assume it was the mark of the craftsman that made the axe. I thought that was pretty cool and I hadn't seen it before on 14 axes I've refinished.

Awesome job on that axe. Thanks for sharing your photos.
 
Thanks for the kind complements. As far as tools I use a gas forge that I built for under $60.00 an anvil made in 1919 I paid $200.00 one pair of tongs I paid$45.00 3 other sets of hand made tongs and an assortment of hammers. My favorite hammer is a hand forged hammer that was a gift to me and made by a knifemaker friend, Lin Rhea. There are a few other tools I use that I have made along the way like drifts and a flatter. If you have the desire you should certainly try it. Have you talked with the smith from the skills fair? I would venture a bet he woukd probably be glad to let you try or help you get in touch with somebody that could help. If Idaho weren't so far away you coukd drop by and I would help you try it to see if you wanted to give it a go.

Be careful though its very addictive.

Chris
 
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