New Axe: Snow & Nealley vs. Council

J

JackJ

Joined
Mar 10, 2005
Messages
37
I'm looking for a new full size axe, mostly to help clear downed trees and do limbing. I process 4-5 cords of mixed hardwood a year, using chainsaws for felling and bucking, and occasionally bow saws, Silky's, and a crappy hardware store axe for limbing and small stuff. Then splitting mostly by hand.

Til now, the axe is mostly used for hacking stump roots.

Spending time reading up here, I'm excited about spending more time in the woods without screaming two strokes impacting the experience as much as they currently do. And I'm regularly clearing trails on my property of small downed trees, (5" - 10") where efficiency isn't a big concern. It'd be nice to walk the property with an axe over my shoulder capable of tackling most any wood I'm likely to need to cut.

Now I know that vintage is bound to be the recommendation of many, and I suspect I'll end up going that way eventually. But right now I want something that I can put to use this week, hopefully only needing some edge work, which I can do. (I've got lots of sharpening experience.)

I'm also wanting to keep the cost well under $100. The Council Jersey looks like a good option for me, from what I read. I'm also intrigued by the Snow and Nealley 3.5 lb. Though the handle seems a little short on that one, at 29" or 30". I've read about the new ownership changing back to all U.S. manufacture. But not a lot about the quality of the head shaping, heat treat, and hafting. Any first hand reviews?

I'm certainly open to other non-boutique options. But would really like to order something in the next day or two as I've got some time off later in the week and the weather should be perfect for working on my woodlot.

Thanks!

Jack
 
The Snow & Nealley is a nice piece of work. They've fixed the issues they used to have with hafting the heads crooked, and the handles balance the head perfectly--it'll sit dead horizontal in open palms. Good quality wood, nice and slim, but with a substantial knob. The factory edge is hardware store grade, so it'll need sharpening before being put to work, but the steel and heat treatment are good. All around I consider them a very strong value. It's really a matter of what sort of rig you're looking for in terms of the Council vs. S&N.
 
[QUOTE="JackJ It'd be nice to walk the property with an axe over my shoulder capable of tackling most any wood I'm likely to need to cut.

[/QUOTE]
I am pretty sure you did not mean it literally, but some might take it that way. I feel obligated to quote Old Axeman's "An Axe to Grind":
Always carry your sheathed single-bit ax at
its point of balance near its head with the
edge pointing down. The ax should be on your
downhill side if you are walking on a slope.
If you fall or trip, toss the ax away from you.
Carry a double-bit ax at your side. Carrying
an ax on your shoulder is asking for trouble,
especially in the woods or on rough trails. Don’t
do it.
 
Thanks for passing that along regarding how to carry an axe. I hadn't given it a lot of thought, though I do keep my edges very sharp, and try to be very safety conscious. I'd always use some sort of edge gard, but yeah, carrying on the shoulder is, upon reflection, unwise. Especially since some of my trails are steep and rough.
 
I don't have personal experience with either of the axes you are looking at, though I bet either one would work great for you.

However, don't discount the S&N due to the handle length. Have you ever swung a 30" axe? You might really like it. Most of my full size axes have 29-31" handles as that range feels best to me.

One of the guys who frequents this forum buys and sells tons of old axes and he reports that the vast majority of old axes he finds with original handles are 28-32".
 
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