New belt sander-new question.

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Jun 13, 2006
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I've got my 2X42 Craftsman today. It came with 80 grit disk and belt. I gave it a good try. Disk works great, especialy when I placed 60 grit on it.
But belt... it worked fine first few minutes. A bit too fine for stock removing (80 grit). But after few ninutes it suddenly made a loud "kabum" and snapped! I did not work on belt at a moment. It was just running free.
I checked the seam. It is approximately 5/16" plastic strip glued on sandbelt. Really poor IMHO. Is it just because of cheap belt or what?
And could you give me some advise what to bye next time. I did not find this size in local hardware stores, so will order some on the internet. May be someone use the same size 2x42 and can give me a link to good source?
 
I have had belts break on the joint before. Never with belts I bought from internet or mail order suppliers always with belts I bought from retail. i would just write it off as a cheapie. find some good brand name like 3m or norton and give them a try. There are lots of suppliers who advertise in Blade magazine there are a few threads running right now about belts on shop talk have a look for links to suppliers.
 
Call the folks at Supergrit. They'll hook you up. They're knifemaker friendly and will happily answer any questions you have. Great folks and great products. I may actually be swinging by there this afternoon (I'm lucky to be ~30 mins away from them).

-d
 
Thanks. I decided to try Industrial Abrasives. They have a good discount for 2 dozens. And you can choose several grits in one order. I will try them and post about quality if anyone is interested. I'll try Supergrit in next batch.
Ilovetoolsteel, deker - thanks again.
 
deker you running up by there by way of 116 if so let me know im up on a hill top working on knifes and stuff
 
I've been using this sander for about a month now and get my belts from Jantz. There have been no problems. The tracking adjustment can come out of its slot sometimes when you loosen the tracking nut and this can cause the belt to lock up if you don't make sure its aligned before starting machine. I also ordered a spare platen from sears that I ground down the middle sides of the platen so that belt overhangs on each side otherwise you can't adjust belt on left side to get your ridge line. I also ordered a spare wheel so that I can eventually convert this to a 2x72" machine
Belts http://jantzsupply.com/cartease/item-detail.cfm?ID=SB242320
Platen http://www3.sears.com/
 
rkwalker I've been thinking about conversion to 2x72 also, but I did not buy any parts. I am setting my "shop" from zero, so it is enough items that I need more than weels and platens. Thaks for the links I'll keep in mind.

By the way. As far as my belts would not be in my hands till Monday I decided to play with snapped cheap one. So I glued the old plastic strip with DAP contact cement. Then pressed it in my vise as tight as I could. I have some packaging plastic belts that remained from grinder package. 1/2" wide and pretty thick(~1/32'). Strong as hell. So I pilled thin layer of this stuff and cut 3 pieces of 2" length. Then I glued them along the back side right upon the seam. Then ground the transitions smooth. And it works! I did not load it for full but did some grinding. So at least it is possible to repair some belts in case one do not have spare. I understand that it seems stupid to repair belts, don't throu hammers at me...I just needed belt right now...
 
rkwalker said:
I've been using this sander for about a month now and get my belts from Jantz. There have been no problems. The tracking adjustment can come out of its slot sometimes when you loosen the tracking nut and this can cause the belt to lock up if you don't make sure its aligned before starting machine. I also ordered a spare platen from sears that I ground down the middle sides of the platen so that belt overhangs on each side otherwise you can't adjust belt on left side to get your ridge line. I also ordered a spare wheel so that I can eventually convert this to a 2x72" machine
Belts http://jantzsupply.com/cartease/item-detail.cfm?ID=SB242320
Platen http://www3.sears.com/

I am thinking about buying a 2X72 belt sander. Grizzly has one for $360 that is 1 HP. I see the Sears is 2/3 HP. Would that be enough Hp if you converted it to a 2X72?

What does everyone think about the Grizzly at 1 HP? Is it enough HP? I have heard that 1-1/2 HP is about the minimum that is needed. What do you guys think?

Thanks,
Dale
 
I won't go into the advisability of trying to convert a grinder to 2X72,but as far as HP, 1HP is a minimum.At 2/3HP you will find yourself underpowered.You will soon find 1HP is not enough.Most makers who have been at it for a while go 2HP variable speed. That is a large part of the cost difference between the economy grinders and the top brands (that and the fact that the good ones are rock solid,track well,and are built to make knives,not wooden boxes!)
 
bladsmth said:
I won't go into the advisability of trying to convert a grinder to 2X72,but as far as HP, 1HP is a minimum.At 2/3HP you will find yourself underpowered.You will soon find 1HP is not enough.Most makers who have been at it for a while go 2HP variable speed. That is a large part of the cost difference between the economy grinders and the top brands (that and the fact that the good ones are rock solid,track well,and are built to make knives,not wooden boxes!)

Good point!
 
Thanks, I appreciate the input! :thumbup:

What is the advantage/disadvantage of two wheels vs three wheels vs the four wheels of the square wheel type grinders? Is there a brand that is better than others? Is there a place where a guy can buy used equipment?

I am a hobbyist knife maker (my retirement hobby) and am somewhat limited on how much I can spend, so I want the most bang for my buck. I don't intend to make a living making knives, but I wand decent equipment so that I can make the best knives possible considering my abilities and somewhat limited funds.

Thanks for your help.
Dale
 
ORVET, don't waste your money on a griz chinese grinder.:barf: get a Coote. norman is a great man to deal with and stands by his product www.cootebeltgringer and at least a 1 1/2 horse motor(finding a used motor is not that hard) and a 2x72 you get the best belts that way. you can make it change speeds by using step pulleys and a auto fan belt. that was my first grinder and it can still do the job. 9 years later. I did get a hardcore with a 1 1/2 var, about 6 years and my third one will be a Rob frink grinder with the rotary platen. I like have differnt machines set up for jobs. like I mostly use the coote grinder for handle shaping these days because it has the longest slack belt area.
 
For belts, I buy 3Ms and like premier belts on the Web (see KM-supply houses in msgs above). "regular" Al oxide I get from McMaster. They have quite a variety of sizes available, reasonably prices, overnite delivery-for-the-price of UPS-ground to most locations.

For stainless, one must have premier belts, carbons steels work fine with regular belts. Also, fines one can get from McMaster is 320 grits. I go much
higher, using 3M Trizacts. These last forever.
 
Dmitry - BTW, if you're in NYC area, let me know. I can show some DYI tools I use for KM: belt grinder, oven etc
 
rashid11 said:
Dmitry - BTW, if you're in NYC area, let me know. I can show some DYI tools I use for KM: belt grinder, oven etc
Thanks, but I'm in Southern Minnesota. Quite far away. Let me finish my first blade that I am trying to make after 10-12 year pause, than we can discuss, OK?
And thank you very much, really appreciate that you are ready to help.
Dmitry.
 
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