New Benchmade 710D2 - what to do?

S

Sobriquet

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Jul 27, 2008
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I posted a thread on the general knife discussion board a bit over a week ago about ordering a 710D2 and getting a 710 with 154CM steel. With the advice of some of you fine gentlemen and my needs, I decided to send it back for the D2 blade.

Now that I have it, the edge doesn't feel as sharp as it could be. In fact, the edge looks almost like a course scratched edge. Maybe it's just this D2 steel? I haven't seen any before. What angle does Benchmade sharpen their knives to from the factory?

What should I do with this? I don't want to ruin the recurve or make it any duller. If it matters, this knife is an EDC with the primary purpose of being a self-defense tool. The blade rarely sees anything other than extremely light use because I want to protect the edge for its true purpose.

I have a Spyderco Sharpmaker in the house (plus I ordered the diamond sticks for it, 204D), a Lansky sharpener with regular stones and diamond ones, and a DMT DuoStone. It's fair to say that I have more sharpening gear than knowledge.

Can someone help me out here? What should I do with this knife? How should I maintain it? Many thanks, guys.
 
I have one in D2 with the edge similar to what you described
IMO BM did a poor sharpening job considering the price of this knife--that is a rough, unsymmetrical grind on the edge

since the edges are formed by hand, the angle of the edge may vary from knife to knife

all said, the edge is still quite sharp and i have yet to do any maintenance on it. I plan to use fine round crock sticks to touch up the edge, and when worn to the point where heavier grinding is needed, send it back to lifesharp (unless i have bought an edgepro or similar system by then). To touch up the recurve on the sharpmaker, you will want to use the edges of the triangle

clean the knife like you would any other. Everybody has their own preferences for doing this. I personally spray mine thoroughly with nonchloro brake cleaner, apply a drop of militec on the axis bar and ea side of the pivots, and spray mineral oil on the blade.
 
TFin04 said:
Sharpen it.

I use the Sharpmaker myself.
Click to expand...

Start with the diamond stones. When it exhibits a wire edge with the diamond stones, go to the medium grit stones. When you've polished the edge as much as you can with the medium grit, and you have a finer wire edge, go to the fine stones, and repeat.

The get a leather strop, two sides, with black and green compound on them, and strop it on the black first, then the green, and you'll have a knife that can whittle hairs.
 
I have a 710D2, too. D2 is funny stuff; it takes a fair bit longer to sharpen than, say, S30V. I use my DMT red to achieve a burr, then follow with the green (ultrafine) hone. Just be patient, and you'll be rewarded with a hair-popping edge.
 
Can someone clarify the proper way to feel for a burr? If you use a Sharpmaker and are alternating strokes on both sides, what should you feel? Should you be able to feel your nail catch a burr at the edge as you drag it up the face of the blade towards the edge?

I tried to practice tonight with an older Spyderco Endura with ATS-55 steel and put quite a bit of time into it. I still wouldn't classify it as "scary sharp." I don't THINK I'm doing anything wrong... but the results aren't what I'd expect.

I set the Sharpmaker to 40 degrees. I spent a very good bit of time with the diamond sticks making sure I was getting to the edge - I did the sharpie thing. After I was confident I had reshaped the edge (It had been very poorly freehand sharpened previously at various angles), I went on to the gray sticks. I used the corners, then the flat. After about 30 strokes, I went on to the white ceramic sticks and repeated the process.

I have the original VHS tape that came with my Sharpmaker (got it in 1999), and from the tape, my blade should be "shaving sharp."
 
Hmm.. do I need to start over again? ATS-55 steel... should it be capable of getting a very sharp edge? Testing it on regular printer paper shouldn't dull that edge immediately, right?

Sigh. Some things really aren't easy to learn without someone showing you in person.
 
I've had a D2 Benchmade before - a bali. It was a lovely knife but the edge was not impressive out the box.

I also battled a bit to get it sharp.

Sorry to say it, but I think you were better off with the 154CM.

Quite frankly, I don't know why people get so excited about tool steels.
 
You should be able to see a burr quite easily in good light. If you test the blade with your thumb it should be quite obvious that there is a little ridge there.

I think you are overdoing the sharpening. I very seldom do more than 5 strokes each side. The angles are preset so that's not an issue.

If the knife is blunt start with the gray sticks on the edge, then the flats, then the white sticks in the same order. Finally, turn an exam pad upside down and strop the blade back and forth a few times (try to keep the angle consistent each time).

That's all you should need to do. If the knife is already sharpish, then you only need to use the white sticks.

BUT, you must clean your sticks (esp. the white) regularly. I find normal dishwashing liquid and a scotchbrite sponge (rough side) work best. A pencil eraser will also remove light deposits.

Also, make sure you are keep the knife straight up and down when stroking down the sticks. Start at the end closest to the choil and stroke lightly down until you get to the tip (ie, draw the knife towards you as you go down).

Its all there in the video, which is one of the best demos I've ever seen.

Practice with a Swiss Army knife if you have one - one of the easiest knives to sharpen.

Good luck!






Sobriquet said:
Can someone clarify the proper way to feel for a burr? If you use a Sharpmaker and are alternating strokes on both sides, what should you feel? Should you be able to feel your nail catch a burr at the edge as you drag it up the face of the blade towards the edge?

I tried to practice tonight with an older Spyderco Endura with ATS-55 steel and put quite a bit of time into it. I still wouldn't classify it as "scary sharp." I don't THINK I'm doing anything wrong... but the results aren't what I'd expect.

I set the Sharpmaker to 40 degrees. I spent a very good bit of time with the diamond sticks making sure I was getting to the edge - I did the sharpie thing. After I was confident I had reshaped the edge (It had been very poorly freehand sharpened previously at various angles), I went on to the gray sticks. I used the corners, then the flat. After about 30 strokes, I went on to the white ceramic sticks and repeated the process.

I have the original VHS tape that came with my Sharpmaker (got it in 1999), and from the tape, my blade should be "shaving sharp."
Click to expand...
 
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