After hearing all the good things about the Benchmade 710, I had to get one. My first AXIS, too.
I got the M2HS. Man, is this thing vicious!
Handles beautifully, cuts like a bizatch (even without reprofiling a la Joe Talmadge's FAQ... but I'll get around to it in a bit
)... this is REALLY nice.
I LOVE it. I love the lock, the retention, the blade cutting ability, the feel, the balance, the indescribably smooth action.
It's interesting ... for a while, I'd been addicted to thick blades (3/16", 1/4") but I kind of discovered that they don't cut too well if you're not going to be hammering them through cinder blocks or something. For cardboard, branches, and their ilk, the 0.115 of the 710 is fine.
Feels SO good in the hand.
A couple of questions:
1) Has anyone managed to take out the blade and reinstall it, without taking off the button release? The first thing I did when I got it is break out the Torxes and take off the front-side scales and pivot screw. When I got to the pivot pin, it looks like I don't want to take out the pin itself as I won't be able to reassemble the washers, pin, and blade properly without disassembling the entire AXIS mechanism and hence the button release.
2) Is it bad to "flick" the blade open, holding open the button release? The retention tension is too tight to flick when it's closed, but when pulled unlocked it flicks like a charm.
It's also odd that when flicked, the blade opens and then STOPS completely even if I haven't released the lock closed. It doesn't bounce at all. A nice, pleasant surprise.
I noticed that the stop pin puts a bit of a dent in the engagement surface of the blade tang though. I swear I'm not swinging my arm around, just my wrist. After about 8 or 10 dynamic openings, it's definitely worn through the BT2 and looks like it's dented the tang a tiny bit. This looks like premature wear. I've completely stopped flicking open my linerlocks; is it safe, or at least, advisable for long-term durability with the AXIS?
3) The button release on the right-handed side (obverse?) is pretty sharp. It's actually scraped up my thumb quite a bit. I hit it with some 320 grit sandpaper; nothing seems to smooth it out. Any advice? The left-handed button is much smoother and comfortable to use.
A few nit-picky points:
I wish
...the construction was a little more overbuilt. Even my CRKT M16Z had an aluminium backspacer, with four screws that went both directions (obverse -> reverse; reverse -> obverse). The 710 only has two, and even then, it only anchors into a steel nut that's embedded in the G10, rather than through the liners. I think this could've been addressed with a third bolt through the knife where the "retaining dent" is on the backspacer.
...there were a smoother thumb cutout to make opening easier. However, after seeing Buzzbait's post, I'm not going to try to sand or dremel it down. Heh.
...to have NOT lightened the liners out. The 6oz heft of the AMK SERE 2k is reassuring.
...finger grooves to be cut in the butt end of the liner, too.
...the G10 to be a little more aggressive. Not so much as the Buck Strider, but maybe with a higher frequency, like the Emerson or SERE 2k. This one slips a bit.
... a chrome & boron carbide coating, instead of the eminantly scratchable teflon black.
... a 707.5 version that has a 3.45" blade for certain locales, but keeping the recurve unlike the 705.
All in all, I'll be trading off between the 710 and the Buck Strider Mini for my EDC. Really wonderful feel.
-Jon
I got the M2HS. Man, is this thing vicious!
Handles beautifully, cuts like a bizatch (even without reprofiling a la Joe Talmadge's FAQ... but I'll get around to it in a bit
)... this is REALLY nice.I LOVE it. I love the lock, the retention, the blade cutting ability, the feel, the balance, the indescribably smooth action.
It's interesting ... for a while, I'd been addicted to thick blades (3/16", 1/4") but I kind of discovered that they don't cut too well if you're not going to be hammering them through cinder blocks or something. For cardboard, branches, and their ilk, the 0.115 of the 710 is fine.
Feels SO good in the hand.
A couple of questions:
1) Has anyone managed to take out the blade and reinstall it, without taking off the button release? The first thing I did when I got it is break out the Torxes and take off the front-side scales and pivot screw. When I got to the pivot pin, it looks like I don't want to take out the pin itself as I won't be able to reassemble the washers, pin, and blade properly without disassembling the entire AXIS mechanism and hence the button release.
2) Is it bad to "flick" the blade open, holding open the button release? The retention tension is too tight to flick when it's closed, but when pulled unlocked it flicks like a charm.
It's also odd that when flicked, the blade opens and then STOPS completely even if I haven't released the lock closed. It doesn't bounce at all. A nice, pleasant surprise.
I noticed that the stop pin puts a bit of a dent in the engagement surface of the blade tang though. I swear I'm not swinging my arm around, just my wrist. After about 8 or 10 dynamic openings, it's definitely worn through the BT2 and looks like it's dented the tang a tiny bit. This looks like premature wear. I've completely stopped flicking open my linerlocks; is it safe, or at least, advisable for long-term durability with the AXIS?
3) The button release on the right-handed side (obverse?) is pretty sharp. It's actually scraped up my thumb quite a bit. I hit it with some 320 grit sandpaper; nothing seems to smooth it out. Any advice? The left-handed button is much smoother and comfortable to use.
A few nit-picky points:
I wish
...the construction was a little more overbuilt. Even my CRKT M16Z had an aluminium backspacer, with four screws that went both directions (obverse -> reverse; reverse -> obverse). The 710 only has two, and even then, it only anchors into a steel nut that's embedded in the G10, rather than through the liners. I think this could've been addressed with a third bolt through the knife where the "retaining dent" is on the backspacer.
...there were a smoother thumb cutout to make opening easier. However, after seeing Buzzbait's post, I'm not going to try to sand or dremel it down.
Heh....to have NOT lightened the liners out. The 6oz heft of the AMK SERE 2k is reassuring.
...finger grooves to be cut in the butt end of the liner, too.
...the G10 to be a little more aggressive. Not so much as the Buck Strider, but maybe with a higher frequency, like the Emerson or SERE 2k. This one slips a bit.
... a chrome & boron carbide coating, instead of the eminantly scratchable teflon black.
... a 707.5 version that has a 3.45" blade for certain locales, but keeping the recurve unlike the 705.
All in all, I'll be trading off between the 710 and the Buck Strider Mini for my EDC. Really wonderful feel.
-Jon