New Buck 110, Assistance Please

A

adamg01

Joined
Dec 8, 2013
Messages
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The recent Buck 110 thread inspired me to nab one (with finger grooves) for mostly nostalgic reasons I suppose. It is extremely tight and gritty to open. I am curious if a degreaser will damage the finish on it? I think it goes a little beyond "breaking in". It makes that gritty sound when I open and close it. I just don't want to damage the finish because this is a definite heirloom to my son years down the road but I might use it some in the mean time.

Any help is greatly appreciated, thanks.
 
Someone with more experience will be along soon, I'm sure, but I would wash it out with a little dish soap and water, dry it, and oil the joints/ wipe it down with an oily rag. Should be fine.
 
I find that liquid wax like a squeezable auto wax works better than oil and doesn't attract dirt lint etc.
 
For gritty knives that I can't take apart, I'll soak them in Dawn dishsoap with water for a few hours. Rinse well, dry and oil. For the wood handles, i'll put some leather conditioner on them, in case they dried out during the cleaning.
 
Aias said:
Someone with more experience will be along soon, I'm sure, but I would wash it out with a little dish soap and water, dry it, and oil the joints/ wipe it down with an oily rag. Should be fine.
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This should solve the problem. Nothing more to add. I would recommend simple mineral oil. Nothing fancy is needed. When the pivot is cleaner is will give it a great oil film.

Do not use food-oil (olive etc etc) as it will get rancid.
 
Yes, This ^ is what you should do. Spray, let it sit then work it. Repeat the process. It's most likely polishing compound. Use a toothbush to work oil in around the pivot. Depress the lockbar as you spray with the tube in the well against the blade pivot area. This will allow it to flush the compound out. DM
 
It doesn't have to be WD-40. It can be CLP or any product of this quality, under pressure with the straw. Let us know if this doesn't work and we'll go another route. DM
 
I would suggest ballistol. Works well on knives and every other favorite men's toy. Wood, metal, leather. Check out their website
 
Thanks a bundle guys. Another reason why I love this forum is everyone is so willing to help. It was simpler than I thought, the WD40 worked like a charm. Thanks again
 
David Martin said:
Yes, This ^ is what you should do. Spray, let it sit then work it. Repeat the process. It's most likely polishing compound. Use a toothbush to work oil in around the pivot. Depress the lockbar as you spray with the tube in the well against the blade pivot area. This will allow it to flush the compound out. DM
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Ditto. With WD40 you will have to re-oil it soon with something else. As David said, it can be CLP. WD40 now makes silicon spray lube and you would be fine with only this. You probably will want a few cotton swabs as some gunk may wash out and be visible in the knife handle cavity.
 
Just a Moderator comment here, over the years there have been a dozen or more threads on this "gritty" subject. The new knife black polishing 'grit' was and continues to be a thing that frustrates new owners. It seems we went from no WD-40 thru the hot soapy water era and here we are back at the WD-40 world again. Regulars should also always encourage new visitors to use the "Search" function, for one reason other than solving their problem. It might get them hooked on Buck information and they will spend time checking out the Buck forum past. Yes, some good, some not so good, but knowledge is power...ahha. And we create another 'Buckaholic".

300Bucks
 
At times I tell new posters that we've had that topic and much is written about it. And it can be found in searching. They don't like this and want their post 'personally addressed'. They view it as if I'm trying to hijack their topic. I don't think they want to use the search feature. They want to talk about it... So, I just repeat it. DM
 
I also use the Dawn dish soap and hold the knife in the hot water stream holding down the lockback to allow the water to pass between the blade and lockback. As previous posts on this subject stated this is "normal" due to the manufacturing process of the knife. During the final buffing there are materials that get into the knife.
 
Wd40 to clean it. Work the blade and then blow it out with compressed air if you have access. Then I'll use a toothpick stuck in a t-shirt rag to wipe out all the excess. A little dab of nano-oil or CLP and ready to go. Smooth as butter
 
I have collected a small assortment of wooden coffee stirrers (McDonalds, Starbucks) and popsicle ("craft") sticks. These have ends that I have variously shaped to act as non-scratching "micro-probes" to get into crevices in folding knives. Sometimes I use the bare stick, other times, the stick is wrapped in thin cotton cloth, a gun cleaning patch, or even kleenex. Works better most times than a dental pick, that other great recycled micro-probe.

The idea is hardly original with me, but I offer it to anyone who hasn't tried it. You will need to refurbish/replace the wooden sticks as the points wear and get gummed up with WD-40 or oil or what-have-you.
 
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