New Case Wharncliffe trapper

Joined
Dec 1, 2013
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311
I just got a new case Wharncliffe mini trapper by mail order. It's got a few small imperfections, but one thing bugging me is that the clip blade sits a little high where the tip can catch my finger as I run it over the edge.

Is the preferred way to deal with this by filing the kick down or to re profile the tip?
 
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Pic of my new knife.
 
I have the same knife and when the clip blade is open the back spring sits proud close to a 1/16". I have same knife in antique sawcut bone, red jig bone ,and green Select and all have great fit and finish. Must just be the assembly line on the bone stag mini trappers are having Q.C. issues. If you take a little off the kick it would help your problem, but the back spring will sit a little low. Do it a very small amount at a time, or send it back to mail order place, or Case.
Harold
 
The knife may be new to you, but the clip blade has been sharpened quite a bit. That is why it sticks up above the handles. If you want to keep it, file the kick down slowly until you like it. :)
 
The knife may be new to you, but the clip blade has been sharpened quite a bit. That is why it sticks up above the handles. If you want to keep it, file the kick down slowly until you like it. :)

No, that is a brand new variant and it is the style clip coming with the wharnie secondary.
 
Clip blade on that one looks identical to my regular Case Mini Trapper in Chestnut Bone CV, that has the typical spey blade. If it were me I'd file the kick a little if it is to be a user knife.

 
I guess my question is ... If I file the kick down, will the blade potentially hit the spring when closed?

If I were to take little off of the tip, would you use a stone or file?

@Markesharp - this knife should be brand new, as I got it from mail order from a vendor in the Midwest.
 
If you take too much off, yes you could potentially hit the spring. However, that is not usually an issue. Personally, I prefer to reshape the tip of the blade to compensate for a proud tip since clip points are not my favorite anyways:)
I am not at home to take a picture, but I have done that modification to multiple knives. To do the mod I have used a diamond home in the past but not use my worksharp.
 
I would file the kick, just be really careful not to overdo it, a fraction taken off the kick will translate to a very large drop at the tip of the blade. I check every 5 passes or so on the stone, to keep track of the progress.
 
As others have mentioned, extreme caution is needed when filing. Too much off can result in a non flush spring on close or open. It's something I abhor in any knife, if when the blade is open it's not flush and you can feel the raised or depressed spring it seriously impairs the feel of the knife in the hand. It feels rough and obstructive. I wrecked a very nice CASE Medium Stockman by lowering the sheepfoot too much, resulting in lowered spring on open, it's the car beater knife now. For this reason, I'd suggest sharpening the tip of the knife instead. You should tape up the bolster to avoid file marks and watch out for metal filings on the inside, can give a gritty feel that's tedious to clear out.

My CASE Mini Wharncliffe Trappers (why on earth do they use the word mini? They're not, being very decent average sized knives, Demi would be better :D ) 2 jigged, one smooth have all come very well finished indeed with no issues at all. I just don't seem to have much time for them these days, :confused:good knives though:thumbup:

Thanks, Will
 
This is odd: after years of ownership I just filled down the kick on my Case Trapper last night! As everyone has said: go slow but it's not rocket science.

My issue was my clip was sitting so high that I could hardly access the spey (note reground as a drop point) blade nail nick. It took the blade down quite a bit and there was no change in the spring (it all depends on how the knife was designed). I refinished the spine as well after many years of scratch patina...


 
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