New CQC13SW what sharpener?

Prince of Peace

Prince of Peace

Joined
May 6, 2006
Messages
338
God is good. My CQC13 arrived today and it is beyond wonderful. The idea of a huge clip point folding Bowie done with such finesse and detail for such a modest price really wows me.:D

This knife is easily the sharpest knife I have ever owned out of the box. Crawford customs,Doucette,Dozier,Derr,Nichols, and other hand mades. Spyderco stock and sprint run customs,Bucks,Busses,Scrap Yards,Swamp Rats and ANY other knife I have ever bought new.

This knife from Emerson is literally razor sharp. It shaves hair without any drag. Curls my cigar rings into as many as 81 curly cues...yes that is a true test. Cigar rings can be very thin and flimsy.:p
Very impressed with this folding Bowie knife. Handle curves around the pinky for a firm grip. The whole hand rides well inside the checkered G-10 with total comfort.:thumbup:

And the tip of this Bowie is a real gnat splitter! It is truly needle tip sharp.

But as I have come to know as fact my Chefs Choice Edge Select 120 will devour this 145CM like candy in a 8 year olds mouth.

I need to get a sharpening system that a fool can use to make edges like the one that came with this new knife. So who makes the best idiot proof sharpening system?:confused:

Keep in mind I have NEVER held a sharpening stone let alone tried to ruin one of my precious blades on it. I need the true can't fail way to maintain this razors edge. Anything less than hair popping drives me back to the blade shredding Edge Select 120's spinning stone grinders!:eek:

Help!

Oh, and thanks for all the great articles on Emerson Knives,I just now after 20 years of collecting finally own 2 inside of a month. Many other designs I need to try as I have learned from reading here.
Keep up the great work!;)

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Peace.
 
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There really is no substitue for learning to sharpen free hand but that does obviously take time to master.

The sharpener that a lot of people seem have and like is the Spyderco sharpmaker. It's not going to do
the work for you but it does make things easier than true free hand sharpening.

:):thumbup:
 
Great choice..... the 13 is a fantastic blade and even better in that knock-out finish :eek:

I use a Sharpmaker for my Emersons. 154CM is a real non-demanding steel and the 13 is a V-grind so you won't have any hassles with it on the SM.

Enjoy that bad boy!
 
i dont think any of the systems work well with EKI's FWIW, the angles just arent right.

on my custom '13 i use a norton india stone and follow the directions on the EKI website and it gets as sharp as anything else i own, and it takes less than 5 minutes.

while i love sharpmakers and use mine a lot never use it on any of my EKI's, the angles arent right.
 
Sharpen like EKI, belt grinder and buffer, if you can. Or, free hand it. I use water stones and pull backwards until the burr forms and then buff it off.
 
I have a very smooth black stone that was my grandfathers. It came with a straight razor I inherited. One side feels smoother than the other. Can I try this on some slag blade I have laying around? And if so do I always draw the knife to me or away from me? Against the stone in a forward scraping motion or pulling it to me as I face the stone?
Confusion because I have never tried to do this before.

Sorry in advance for undoubtedly covering the blind basics of sharpening. I still just don't get it.
"Even after reading the diamond stick method on EMO.com"

Peace.
 
Prince of Peace said:
I have a very smooth black stone that was my grandfathers. It came with a straight razor I inherited. One side feels smoother than the other. Can I try this on some slag blade I have laying around? And if so do I always draw the knife to me or away from me? Against the stone in a forward scraping motion or pulling it to me as I face the stone?
Confusion because I have never tried to do this before.

Sorry in advance for undoubtedly covering the blind basics of sharpening. I still just don't get it.
"Even after reading the diamond stick method on EMO.com"

Peace.
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its probably going to be too fine for general use, my dad was a barber at one time and i have several stones kinda like what ya are talking about and they are too fine to sharpen anything but razors, or to put a final edge on a std knife. of course it doesnt hurt to try..........

on an EKI (or other brands with a similar grind) ya wanna pull the knife away from ya to raise a burr, if you got to www.emersonknives.com they have a tutorial and if ya follow the instructions and practice a bit ya wont have any problems,

on a std "v" grind, some folks do it one way/some folk do it the other, and i have seen excellent results from both, i do it like ya are cutting into the stone (the opposite of how ya do EKI's)but my dad did it the other way and he got stuff plenty sharp too.

but i dont think your stone is gonna work for general use, like to raise a burr on EKI's, its too fine, or if ya did it would take an hour or 3 lol.

for EKI's i think its hard to beat an 8" norton hard india they are cheap ($20 or so) and raise the burr fast, of course something like a DMT diamond stone will do it a bit faster but they are 2X as expensive too, so a norton lubed with WD40 imho is pretty good for EKI's, imho anyway. i raise the burr w/the norton, then LIGHTLY go the other way to remove the burr, then strop w/the back of a notepad or a leather strop for the final edge, works for me.
 
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You got me again SIFU1A! Sharpen the knife by pushing the blade into the sharpening stone as if trying to shave off the stones surface.:confused:

Or do the exact opposite and slowly drag the knife toward you not shaving the stone.

I don't get it !?!:o

It seems that one way it would ruin the blade and the other take hours.

Perhaps a 2" belt sander with 400-800 grit tape? Saw some on E-Bay with wheel grinders and belt combos for less that $100.00 Would that be a better way for a sharpening palsy to go?:rolleyes:

Peace.
 
74--- I have a 1000 grit King water stone. I was taught by a Japanese Knut to pull the blade away from the stone, the same direction as a belt goes. Then buff off the burr. It works.
 
If you really struggle with sharpening, you would be better off with a Sharpmaker IMO.

Its really a no-brainer and the ceramic rods tend to remove less steel.

I don't know if free-handing is the way for a beginner to go. I think I saw a Sharpmaker for sale on the Exchange for $45 earlier.

Just grab that and you will be fine. After you gain confidence you can use your rods to free-hand sharpen.

I managed to get a half decent edge on a Busse Battle Mistress with mine so they are quite versatile.

I would hate to see you mess up that beautiful new 13 by attempting to run before you can walk.

Prince of Peace said:
You got me again SIFU1A! Sharpen the knife by pushing the blade into the sharpening stone as if trying to shave off the stones surface.:confused:

Or do the exact opposite and slowly drag the knife toward you not shaving the stone.

I don't get it !?!:o

It seems that one way it would ruin the blade and the other take hours.

Perhaps a 2" belt sander with 400-800 grit tape? Saw some on E-Bay with wheel grinders and belt combos for less that $100.00 Would that be a better way for a sharpening palsy to go?:rolleyes:

Peace.
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Buffalohump said:
If you really struggle with sharpening, you would be better off with a Sharpmaker IMO.

Its really a no-brainer and the ceramic rods tend to remove less steel.:D


I would hate to see you mess up that beautiful new 13 by attempting to run before you can walk.
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:thumbup:

Mr. B.H. you said the words that make perfect sense to me.

A Sharpmaker comes with certain grit rods so I don't have to be careful in my purchase right?:confused:

Thanks again all for the help. I DO need to learn this time honored skill.

Peace.
 
I love the Sharpmaker rods, but the angle works perfectly for... well, almost nothing!

I've got really good freehand skills, so I just use the Sharpmaker stones in my hand for almost everything and I can get all my knives shaving sharp with them freehand.

Just don't go crazy on the "back" side of those chisel edges with any abrasive. The back sides of those edges just need stropped after you work on the front edge with the stones.

People complain about the Emerson chisel edges, but Emerson is actually right about them being easier to sharpen once you get it out of our head about sharpening both sides of an edge.

Sharpen the front and fluff the burr off the back and you're good to go. Half the time.

.
 
They have white rods and grey. The white are just for touching up, the grey for when the knife is a bit blunt.

The SM comes with a DVD instruction video that's really well done. Ol Sal takes you through the process himself.

I bought it so I could sharpen serrated knives (it is designed to be able to sharpen serrations and plain edges) but have since used it on everything I own with an edge, including scissors and hedge clippers.

The thing to remember is to keep the knife sharp by touching it up every once in a while. Don't let it get blunt first. 154CM is relatively easy to sharpen and touch up.

Best of luck! :thumbup:

Prince of Peace said:
:thumbup:

Mr. B.H. you said the words that make perfect sense to me.

A Sharpmaker comes with certain grit rods so I don't have to be careful in my purchase right?:confused:

Thanks again all for the help. I DO need to learn this time honored skill.

Peace.
Click to expand...
 
lotsa folks learned how to sharpen a knife pre-1960 or 1970 something before all the lanskys and sharpmakers lol, its really not that hard but it does take some practice and a willingness to learn, imho everyone should know how to do it the old fashioned way, just in case ya gotta do it and all ya have is a stone, on most things i just ues a sharpmaker to touch them up but i never use one on an EKI, imho its easier to sharpen a EKI on a stone than a std "v" and a std "v" isnt hard,
 
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