New Fire Making technique

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After all this discussion on true flint and steel fire making and whether it's a reasonable fire starting option, I have been involved in further testing. On a hunch, I picked up some 0000 Steel Wool at the local Kmart, took out my C-Steel and a piece of flint (chert that I found on the ground) and on the first strike the Steel Wool took the spark. With a little bit of light blowing it burst into super hot flames. This stuff is better than char cloth, charred punk, or even a ferrocerium striker and has to be one of the quickest, easiest fire starting techniques I have found. Try it, you'll like it.

Jeff
 
The bag of 0000 I got from Lee Valley Tools some time ago came with a warning to keep it sealed in its ziplok bag to prevent oxidation, which could result in combustion. We used to use coarser steel wool for kindling in Scouts. Didn't know it would ignite with a spark though. Thanks for the tip!
 
I've used steel wool a long time as tinder. Lit with just about anything from a battery to a lighter it will burn really hot. I had this hunch that the finer steel wool may go with a spark from true flint so I tried it. Like I said, this is the easiest fire starting method I have come across yet. It also gives a lot of value to a piece of steel that will strike a spark from a rock found on the ground. Steel wool is easy to carry in a mini kit, or pack into any space available - I would assume it needs to stay dry though. It's damn sure better than char cloth. I've been searching for something other than char that will take a spark from true flint and steel. The only substance in its natural state is a fungus not found in the Southeast. Some say pure cotton will do it, but it absolutley won't. I also heard fine outer cedar bark will do it, but I just about rubbed a C-steel in two trying it and never caught a spark. This 0000 steel wool thing is the ticket.

Jeff
 
Yup, I have struck fire that way, Jeff is right, it works great!

Jeff, you ever make fire with ice? It is tricky but can be done........
 
Rob, I've heard the tale but always figured it was a near impossibility. Never tried it....too damn hot in Alabama for ice :)

Jeff
 
Hey Jeff,
Another benifit to the steele wool. When you don't feel like stiking ferocium until you catch a spark, just break out the handy C battery. String out a bit of the steel wool from each end of the ball, touch each string to the battery and WHOOSH. Once the circuit is complete, it should burst into flame without any effort.:D
I have shifted from the steele wool to cotton balls with candle wax dripped on half of them. It catches the spark when the bottom is fluffed out, and the wax gives a good solid 3-4 minute burn time hot enough to light substantial kindling.
recondoc
 
Ah shoot Jeff, forgot where you lived! Come to Montana and I will show you that it does in fact work!
 
Rob, Fire with an ice lens? Ah,....was this done maybe after you out drank the guys who whupped you? You right sure the beer didn't fuzzy the brain a bit and it was really "fire with ass" or something like that? :) Mike
 
Rob, if this is the same technique (forming a convex lens with ice) as discussed in the movie "The Edge" then I am real skeptical. Skeptical only means I haven't seen it done and based on several factors it seems either highly unlikely or, at best, hit and miss.

For proper light refraction and to get a hot focal point, then the lens would have to be formed uniformly which seems impossible in the palm of the hand. The second thing is it seems the ice would have to be free of impurities and extremely clear to properly focus light. Third, it would seem the temperature would have to be perfect for the ice not to freeze back and cloud the surfaces that have been formed. In other words, the colder the freezer is, usually the less transparent the ice.

Again, my skeptical view is based on not having seen it done. Hell nowadays I have the mindset that anything is possible.

Jeff
 
Jeff, I've been an advocate of steel wool as a spark catcher for a long time, and share your observations. Now, try this variant:
take your proverbial petroleum jelly impregnated (can I use that work here?) cotton ball and pull off and spread out a piece on the steel wool. You want a gauze-like look. The spark will lodge in the steel wool, puff up hot, flame into the vaseline-cotton, and GO! Works pretty wet, too.
 
I'm interested in trying different techniques, so I'm wondering where I can get a C-steel? Thanks for the help.
 
Naro, good technique. It also works real well with dry thinned cedar bark as a backing to the steel wool. The good thing about the wool though is it needs nothing else to be an instant flame from a true flint spark.

C - Steels can be bought at: http://www.jastown.com/fire/fire.htm Once you get true flint and steel in your blood, you'll love it as a fire making method.

Jeff
 
In the "complete book of outdoor survival" the autor says thst size 000 steel wool lights even when wet. I did not try this, as I light fires with what I find in the wild.
BTW, if you are thinking about buying the book I don´t think it is worth.
 
I have tried the ice lens several times without any success, so have a few friends. Until someone proves the method to be practical I classify it "happens only in movies".

TLM
 
Hello folks
Pardon my ignorance, but i dont quite know what C-Steel is. please do elaborate more on what it is. Boy i learnt a great deal from how it works from Jeff and all fellow formites. Everyone of you is great!. I used to use the old torch )flashlight) technique for lighting it while i was in the sea scouts long time ago. it was the easiest thing as i didnt have to worry about getting the bats wet or connecting wires or anything. I use a scentific magnifying glass that folds up into a once in ring and closes to protect the lense. i think they use it to examine specimens and stuff. this lense is awfully powerful and in no time will light a flame even under cloudy skies.
thanks everyone.
 
Originally posted by A.C
Hello folks
Pardon my ignorance, but i dont quite know what C-Steel is. please do elaborate more on what it is.
Click to expand...

A C-Steel is named for it's shape. It's shape is so you can hold it and strike downward against the flint. Typically these were forged from mild steel and case hardened with the hardness being in the low 60s on the Rockwell scale. An old file will work just as good. Just strike the smooth edge of the file along a piece of flint. Experiment with the angle of the flint to the file for best sparks. Also break the flint to expose a sharp edge to strike. If you're right-handed hold the flint (sharp edge up) in your left hand and strike the C Steel or edge of the file downward along the edge. Always strike lengthwise of the file - in other words you want the steel to smoothly strike along the edge of the flint. Try to use a smooth even stroke along the steel. Once you get good sparks, place your char or steel wool on top of the flint close to the edge so the sparks go into this material. If you don't have any flint then play around with any rock you have on the ground. Just try to stick with rocks that fracture into sharp edges.

Below is a photo of a C-Steel with various rocks I use for making fire....Obsidian, chert, flint, quartz, and cotton batting used for char. Also there is a piece of Iron Pyrite that works good as a flint. It will not throw sparks from un-hardened steels for catching in char and it will not spark other natural flints but works well as a flint against a C Steel.

Jeff

csteel.jpg
 
Ragnar at ragweed forge has three different styles of firestrikers in several sizes.

The 'leaf' style is designed to be hung around the neck and the 'rattail' style looks easier to use then the simple 'C'.

Ben
 
Neat graphic, but it is backwards for the way I use a C steel. Striking down on the flint actually throws the sparks up, or to the top of the flint.

Jeff
 
Maybe it's cause I'm a southpaw! :D

Actually, I think the direction my sparks go may be due to the angle the steel strikes, the bevel shape on the flint or about a dozen other variables.


Mike
 
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