New freehander

S

Skunkworkz

Joined
Mar 3, 2022
Messages
34
Hello,

New member here from the netherlands.

I have a modest collection of knives (mostly pocket knives but also cooking knive’s), and half of them are used on a daily base for job applications and other stuf. The steel varies but a few 154cm and s30v and a bunch others.

Those knive’s where always sharpened on a work sharp guided system, although i always wanted to learn the art of freehand sharpening, but something was always holding me back. Most likely the learning curve and the stone choice.

A while ago i decided to give freehand a try, bought a cheap set of skerper stones, and gave it a try. Yeah it was something else, but i like the idea, and to be honest this kind of sharpening, it makes me zen in a way being busy with it.

Although i have stil a lot to learn, i can hold a decent angle, and the only real issue i have is the area from the curve to the tip, sometime’s i create multi bevels in that area, but time Will help me master that. Consistency is the key.

I do have the feeling that the cheap stone’s are what they are and they take more time to get a result. On my guided system ( diamond stone) i can shave hair with the knive, and obtain that sharpness resonably fast, with this set i can make a workable edge, but not shaving sharp (yet).

I am considering an upgrade to glass stone’s from shapton, for the time being i will continue practising on the skerper stones. But i do think other stones will give better and faster results.

What are the opinions on the glass stone’s and does someone have a great trick to improve my problem with the curve to the tip?

Thanks in advance!

Regards,

Gijs
 
Welcome to the forum Gus!

(…)

paraphrasing a successful master in her craft:
"it's all about taking baby steps, especially if you're a brand new sharpener. Using a lot of systems/stones/strops in sharpening is like having training wheels when learning to bike. They're perfectly fine to start with if you're new, but eventually you are going to outgrow them as a sharpener"
 
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Welcome Gijs! As far as the tip goes, yeah it can be tricky. Steadiness of hand, and it helps to be sitting or standing as stably as possible. From there its just technique and muscle memory, but I have not exactly mastered it myself, so maybe someone else will offer some additional advice.
 
Welcome to the forums Gijs!

Glad you picked up the art of freehand sharpening. I've been carrying a knife for 35 years or so and have been freehand sharpening for 20 years. My sharpening skills won't win any beauty contests and I don't fuss over a slightly uneven bevel (anymore). I can get my knives sharp and I'm fairly efficient in doing so. That is good enough for me.

I've never owned Shapton stones. Quite frankly, too expensive for me. I use the Ultra Sharp 6"x2" Diamond stone 3 piece kit. $50 USD. Ideally, I'd prefer 8"x3" stones but I make it work. If you are worried about the cost of Shaptons, Ultra Sharp, DMT, or Norton make a fine product.

Two things to consider to make sharpening easier in my opinion.
1. Leather strop. Leather stropping + green compound is a must for me. There are other stropping compounds to be had (namely white) and diamond pastes, but I stick to just the leather strop + green compound. You can even glue an old leather belt to some scrap wood and make a basic strop if needed.
2. Lighted magnifying glass. Used for inspecting your edge. Mine cost $10 USD from Amazon. Great to check for burrs, even bevels, etc.

The key to freehand sharpening is practice, practice, and practice.
 
Welcome Gijs. I read your post and thought “Well now, how the heck do I do that?” Had to pick up a nearby knife and stone and watch my hands to figure it out.

I sharpen mostly with my right hand, heel to tip, edge leading strokes. I start at the heel holding the (usually 14-16 degree) angle, and draw the blade toward me along the stone. The straight part of the edge runs into the curve with about 1/4 of the stone length left, and at that point I lift my grip hand slightly and rotate it toward me slightly. Not a lot, maybe 1/2” and 5 degrees. Next stroke is the other side, away from me, and the end is “lift and rotate away from me”. Varies a little by blade shape.

I agree with gazz about the magnifying glass or eyepiece, combined with the Sharpie trick when starting out. I have a couple strops and use them on some knives, others get a burnishing steel. Depends on the knife and which it responds to better. Most of my knives I’ve had for a long time, and have sharpened and honed a lot. Like old friends, they are.

I’m sorry I’m a technological cripple, because this’d be a lot easier to make a video clip of than describe in words. But I hope it helps you somehow. If not, discard it and try somebody else’s idea. Keep at it, it’ll come to you.

Parker
 
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Welcome aboard Gijs!

For my hand sharpening, I have Shapton glass and Pro Kuromaku stones, Naniwa Chosera and Superstones, various diamond plates and waaayyy too many natural bench stones but in all honesty, my favorite stones have become my Venev diamond bonded stone sets. They leave a killer edge on any and every knife steel I throw at them.
 
catspa said:
Welcome Gijs. I read your post and thought “Well now, how the heck do I do that?” Had to pick up a nearby knife and stone and watch my hands to figure it out.
Click to expand...

🤣:thumbsup:
 
I will add one thing to my comment: All the knives I sharpen are knives I make or own, so that means I can control how thick they are behind the edge by grinding first. The thinner you go behind the edge, the less edge bevel width you have to deal with and the easier it is to keep it consistent and unfaceted. And of course, thinner behind the edge means better cutting performance and edge retention, and easier sharpening.
 
777 Edge said:
Welcome aboard Gijs!

For my hand sharpening, I have Shapton glass and Pro Kuromaku stones, Naniwa Chosera and Superstones, various diamond plates and waaayyy too many natural bench stones but in all honesty, my favorite stones have become my Venev diamond bonded stone sets. They leave a killer edge on any and every knife steel I throw at them.
Click to expand...
I would second that. I have a couple Shapton Glass stones (500 and 1000) and they are good. Excellent for most knives, and don't dish as fast as many other stones. But ... they struggle with *really* hard steels and they do have to be flattened periodically.

I would also highly recommend the Venev bonded diamond stones. They will sharpen anything and they stay flat for a long time.

I'd disagree with David about practicing with thicker bevels. I love knives that are thin behind the edge because they cut better, but I think it's better to practice with fat bevels because it's easier to feel the flat against the stone, and they won't kid you about how convex your edges are.
 
3D Anvil 3D Anvil we are not in any disagreement at all. What you say is definitely true, that practicing on a wider bevel will force one to develop the technique. I didn't suggest thinner behind the edge for practice, I suggested it because it's better for cutting and easier to make it look good.
 
Thanks for the tips and advise!
The sharpie trick is used multiple times in a session just to check, microscope, i have one and will use it from now on.

I do find that my stones are cheap and low quality and take to much time to sharpen effectifly, or the steel is to hard for the stones. But 154 and s30v should be Possible on stones without diamond coating. ( i soak the stones for an hour and they suck so much water that after 3 strokes i need to add water)

Technique is improving everytime i put the stone on the table, so there is a little hope. I do enjoy This process of sharpening more than a guided system to be honest, and i do enjoy it more and it gives me more satisfaction, so i will keep trying and improving.

Thanks guys!
 
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