New Grip Axis question

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jec88

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Mar 6, 2012
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I picked up a new full size 550 griptilian. This is my 4th Benchmade with an axis lock.
This one is stiffer than the others to disengage. I washed it out with soapy water and oiled it. I don't flick them open hard too often, but I was putting it through the paces since it was new and trying it out and on a hard flick, you just about can't get it to disengage. A couple of times I thought I was going to have to get some pliers or something to disengage, but I'd put a washcloth on it to protect my fingers (locks so tight it will about go through your fingers to unlock the axis) and it will click loud to disengage.
On just normal opening and closing, it does seem to be getting a little smoother to open and close so I think with time it might be okay? Anyone ever have a similar experience with and overly stiff lock?
It is new, but my thinking is no telling this particular knife could have sat on a shelf and the oil dried out? And maybe this is a good thing, an extra stout lock or maybe BM is putting in stouter springs?
Also, I've only had a BM apart one time and maybe this is something I can adjust and tune? Has absolutely zero blade play in any directions.
Thanks in advance!
 
The only "Axis" lock I've ever experienced that acted that way was on a Ganzo copy. It felt like the lock was binding against the blade tang. Even it smoothed out after some use. On real Benchmades, some were smoother than others but they all quickly smoothed out perfectly. Since yours is getting better, I wouldn't worry about it too much. A little oil might help while it wears in but I wouldn't use too much oil after that. Just clean it out when it gets gritty.

You can always send it back to Benchmade if it never loosens up enough (but I bet it will).
 
Thanks. I too feel like the lock is binding on the blade tang. I'm not too worried about it, I think I would rather have too much lockup than not enough. I'm not going to flick it for awhile though, might not get her shut!
 
Yes my 551-1 has a sticky lock. It probably is a product of the 20V blade and whatever steel used for the axis lock pin rubbing together, similar to titanium frame locks on D2 and other steels. Fairly confident it'll break in with time just like titanium frame locks. So keep flick'n. ;)
 
Is it the lock bar you are talking about, or the blade that is very hard to deploy ?

If it's the blade, try loosening the pivot a little at a time, and see if it helps. You can also get a few drops of oil down in the bushing area to help too...
 
it's hard manipulating the lock bar when the blade is aggressively deployed open. (lock-stick)
 
I put a tiny drop of oil on the back of the blade where the axis lock contacts and it will be buttery smooth, remove any excess oil leaving just a tiny film.
 
I'd say the tolerance between the lock bar and blade engagement is out of spec on the tight side. I would not go at these surfaces yourself, unless you are willing to do so then maybe just lightly polish them with some 800 or 1000 grit sandpaper. However that may kill your warranty. If the lock is sticking as bad as you say it is, that is abnormal for the mechanisms action. I would say contact BM on the subject.

Just as a comparison on my 556, I can open the blade by hand, give it the lightest flick or flick it like I'm trying to launch it into space, and the lock bar releases the same way every time, no stick at all. No vertical play at all, it feels like perfection, and it has some stout omega springs in it too. The lock bar always gives off a nice little snap when I open up the blade!
 
Thanks for the suggestions. I think I will give it some time to break in and if it never does, I'll send it in if I need to.
Some of the responses above have led me to another question on axis lock knives. Are they not to be oiled much? I've had axis lock knives for just over a year and have never had a spring issue, but I have read where others have so every few months I've been oiling the lock up thinking it could prevent a future breakage? Are they better left dry? Thanks
 
bikedaddy75 said:
I put a tiny drop of oil on the back of the blade where the axis lock contacts and it will be buttery smooth, remove any excess oil leaving just a tiny film.
Click to expand...

I tried a drop of mineral oil on that part of the tang but it did not help. So I wiped it off and just kept thwack'n it over the past 3 days. And now the lock stick is gone. My hunch is this is a CPM-20V issue because it never happened on my other griptillians, and it feels exactly like un-carbodized titanium lock-bar stick on frame lock knives. Perhaps slightly out of tolerance as Boomer8404 suggests.

But jec88 is not kidding when he said plier were almost needed. I have experienced the same thing. But yeah, it's broken in now. Keep on Thwack'n.
 
Unless it's made from non-stainless steel, modern folders really don't need oiling much, if at all. Too much oil just attracts dirt and grit that can get into the mechanism and cause it to wear. For my knives with the Axis lock, I just occasionally put a drop of oil on a Q-tip and wipe it around the lock mechanism and the blade tang. Oil type doesn't matter to me--I use 3-In-One, Ballistol, WD40, whatever is handy at the time. Mainly, I try to keep my knives clean by washing them with soap and water before they get really dirty.
 
Things mechanical require a break in period, but tightness should be only temporary. I never use lubricant and none of my knives suffer for it. Some take longer than others but all of my knives settled in on their own schedule.
 
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