Thanks for the responses everyone, I really appreciate the help
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I've responded to each of you below, but thought I'd put my questions up to save everyone some reading (and make sure the questions don't get lost below
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My main question now is about which tools. I've looked through the frugal leather craftsman thread, and it looks like the only thing I really might want is an stitch groover (since it appears there is not really good alternative). Are there any inexpensive ones that are worth the money? I figure I'll use a fork for stitch spacing, and will use my normal drill and chuck up a #17 in brad (seems similar to the awls that I've seen so far) and see how that makes the holes.
Any knife can cut the leather, then I believe I mostly just need to figure out the finish.
And of course come up with the patterns first
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Thanks again for all of the help.
Hey ocnLogan,
Sounds like a fun project!
The first thing I would suggest is doing a mockup with pattern paper so you know exactly what pattern cuts you'll have. This will also inform you big time on how much leather you will need, so you don't buy too little or way too much for the project. (8 or 9 oz sounds right.) This will save a lot of wasted leather and frustration! Keep in mind the leather you'll be working with is thicker than the patter paper, but the difference in transfer will be minor. Since I purchase my leather locally, I don't have a lead online for you, but I'm sure it's available if you check around online. I wouldn't worry too much about which cut of leather on a first time project, other than maybe staying away from flank pieces if possible, as they can have funky wrinkles and stuff.
It's a great idea to cement everything together once you've checked that all the leather cutouts fit together like expected. Clothes pins or similar can help keep it all together while it sets. I like to mark and make my stitch holes after this.
You do need thread. This is what ultimately holds the whole thing together over time. More specifically, you need waxed artificial sinew, when doing it by hand. A spool that will be enough for several projects can be had at your local fabric/craft store most of the time, as well as leather stitching needles.
A leather awl is important for making your stitch holes. This cuts/moves the leather in each hole rather than removing it completely like a drill bit. I'd imagine a web search can find what you're looking for.
I like using a leather oil like Obenauf's to protect leather sheaths after construction.
Good luck!
Thanks, I hope that it will be a good experience, and that I'll learn a bunch from the project. I tend to like to try to pick up new hobbies every year or two, and I think maybe leatherworking would dovetail nicely into the "knife" hobby that I picked up a few years ago
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I've started playing around with making patterns from some cardboard boxes I have laying around. Maybe I'll snap a photo of them sometime and see what people think of them. I'm kind of shooting in the dark right now, and seeing what makes sense.
And I've seen in many of the other posts that thread is indeed needed, but there seems to be some disagreement on the type. You mention here that waxed artificial sinew is what would be best for hand stitching, any reason why that's better than the other options?
Can you explain why it is that removing leather from the holes is bad? I'm all for listening to the advice, I just like to know the "why" for things
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I've used both latigo and vegetable-tanned leather for my sheaths. Latigo isn't recommended as the dye in it can run, but I seal my sheaths inside and out with SnowSeal, so whatever chemicals are in the leather won't affect the knife, and the sheaths won't absorb moisture. I use waxed nylon thread and double-stitch with leather (rounded tip) needles from each side (also called the cobbler's stitch). I use an awl sometimes but with thick leather a 1/16th inch drill works, too. A good welt is essential to keep the edge from cutting through. Usually I make a pattern from light cardboard. There are lots of good books around on leather working. There are some real artists around (check this forum) who make gorgeous, functional sheaths. Mine are just, well, functional
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Thanks for the info on the cobblers stitch, it looks like something I could pull off
. And forgive my ignorance, but I have looked up latigo leather, but are there any reasons why I'd "want" it over veg? Is it cheaper? Easier to work with? I see that its a combination tanned leather, I'm just not sure what that means to someone like me yet. I'm not planning on doing any tooling or stuff like that at this point if that helps at all.
Should I start on something "simpler" like say... a belt? An altoids tin case? A firesteel loop for my belt? YES!!!
It is inevitable ... you will make mistakes....they will teach you how to improve next time.
Make those mistakes on small items and hopefully you will see lots of positives & be encouraged to try better next time.
Make those first-timer mistakes on a large complicated item and you are likely to be discouraged - not to mention out of pocket.
There is plenty of free leather around (Or very cheap from Op shops) to build your skills. I started making small pocket knife pouches out of leather 'rescued' from worn out leather boots.
I figured this would be the case. Any advice on which type of project that I should tackle first? And sadly I don't have any spare leather around like that, but it sounds like I might be able to get some scraps from Michaels/Hobby Lobby to do kind of the same thing.
OP: Hobby Lobby or Michaels if there is one near you - "remnant bags" are really cheap (like $5 I believe) and if you dig around you'll find bags with pieces large enough for small projects.
Hobby Lobby will also have some waxed thread suitable for starting out and you can even pick up some stamps there as well.
Chris
The nearest hobby lobby to me is actually just as far as tandy, but there is a Michaels only 5-6 miles from me. I'll try stopping by there first, to see what I can find there. Sounds like at least some thread, perhaps some remnants/scraps, and maybe if they have any finishes there. Then
Yep, probably get a whole starter set up of the basics.
One note on Weldwood: a while back they went from round plastic bottles to oblong glass ones. At first I thought "cool, old school". But they changed the brush that's inside the bottle too. In the plastic bottle it was a black poly brush on a metal tube, the new bottles have some thick harder plastic brush on a plastic stem. The new brush might as well be a plastic rod - doesn't spread the glue very well, just globs it on. SO, while you're at Hobby Lobby buy a bag of "craft and glue" brushes - they're $1.50 for 6.
Good note on the weldwood. I'll see which bottles they have, and if its the wrong one, I'll grab some brushes
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On the type of sheath for your project I'm not sure a pancake would be the right style. You might go with two different sheaths. Pancakes excels at the crossdraw however as a vertical sheath it is much more bulky than need be, kinda clunky looking. On the stiching you have it backwards. Glueing holds everything in place till you sew. The sewing is not just for looks. The glue also binds multiple layers together well and helps produce a smooth edge. I use a Weldwood product the one in the green can, works extremely well without the brain killing stinkies of the regular Weldwood. It also spreads much better and thins with water. I use disposable foam brushes from Hobby Lobby. With a proper contact cement no clamping is necessary. Put on both sides allow to dry or set and then press together. I tap with a smoothly dressed hammer. Leather you want 7/8oz veg tan for a sheath. I finish with a light coat of warm neatsfoot oil followed a few hours later with a light coat of Fiebings Bag Kote. Everybody has their favorite finish and I've played with just about all of them including home made conncotions. This is what I've settled on when the project has my name on it.
Thanks for the detailed response.
What makes the pancake sheaths so bulky? Is it the number of layers of leather required, or is it the extra stitching on the sides? Speaking of that, what is a good amount of space to allow on each side of the knife for stitching?
What type of sheath would you recommend for the "non-crossdraw" sheath? The idea with the combo sheath was that I might want to switch the sheaths orientation depending on the outing/what I was doing. The BK15 has a pretty narrow chord, and the cardboard pattern I made last night didn't "seem" too bulky, but I admit I could be doing things wrong.
Its worth the drive to Tandy for leather. You can usually get some specials in the store on goods that may have some holes or branding marks really cheap. The parts that get cut out are good for welts or practicing stamping. Patience and practice and attention to detail will get you going in the right direction. There are outstanding people in this forum that will always be happy to help.
JB
Good to know. I'll see if I can get out to tandy at some point in the future.
