New Guy- Identify This Axe

[Bobbystat]

Hey BF,

My journey with knives outside of the kitchen began a few months ago while camping and coming to the shameful realization that I had absolutely nothing to make kindling with. I'm an electrician by trade and a basket case Harley builder by hobby. I've acquired a lot of tools and a garage full of parts so the lack of "bushman" tools was a bit humbling. That changed this christmas when I asked for an received an Estwing Hatchet, Sven Saw, and diamond sharpeners. I'm still looking at a fixed blades and pocketknives and I'm thinking a BK22 for brute use and an older carbon steel pocketknife from the local swap for small stuff/everday will do nicely.

I didn't think much about a full axe because here in Southern California there arent many big trees to fell (at least that they'll let you hack at) but I couldn't pass up on this cool raggedy looking axe I picked up at the swap meet for $20. i doubt it's really worth much but I wouldnt mind knowing anything about it's origin/age. It was originally painted red on the bit and on an angle on the fawn's foot. I believe the handle was laquered (?) a darker brown and appears to have been secured recently with a new wedge. No markings on anything except for "DROP FORGED" on the bit. Not much to go by, but maybe someone here knows what I've got!

Thanks!!

 

[DarthTaco123]

Dunno about the head but I love that handle! Save it if you can.

 

[Square_peg]

Ditto what Darth said.

 

[300Six]

Dunno about the head but I love that handle! Save it if you can.

Add this to Square_Peg's ditto. That handle has not been 'clipped' at the butt which makes it at very least 1/2 century old, and the shaft is shapely thin compared to the 'club-like' handles that you find these days. Also grain orientation (lengthwise and across) on it is as good as it gets.

Check for flat cheeks (a straight edge across the blade will tell you) on this head. European exported axes (and there were lots of them sold in n. America during the 50s and 60s) were pretty good copies of domestic axes except for imitating the convex cheeks. Many of the big name domestic axe companies made axes for specific hardware chains who paper labelled the unstamped products. There is also a good chance you may have one of these.

The $20 you spent is devoid of sales tax, and shipping, and is at least $100 less than any current manufacture 'good' axe so count your blessings.

 

[Lieblad]

,,,,,

 

[halfaxe]

It's a Michigan pattern. Don't know the maker. I agree with the others on the handle. I would use 0000 steel wool to clean the handle and sand that small bit of pounding damage off the foot. Then apply boiled linseed oil.

 

[gben]

You don't need to do anything to the axe or handle at all. Just don't leave it laying outside in the rain. The handle has some original paint on the bottom, I don't know why anyone would tell you to go over it with abrasive and destroy original patina.

Once history is erased it is gone forever. For some reason a lot of people think antiques are better the shinier they can make them. I recently went to a flea market and a guy there had a pile of old axes, hatchets and hammers. They were all sanded and polished, many had new handles on them and they were all coated with some clear stuff. They looked terrible compared to the old axes and tools I have laying around here that have their original handles and patinas, even worse he wanted a LOT of money for the labor he put into "improving" them.

Collecting axes and hatches is not as old a hobby as collecting furniture and many other antiques. If you went to an established antique furniture collector or dealer and told them how they should go over what they have with steel wool and polish parts of it up they would have a stroke laughing at you.

I have two old Dunlop axes that Sears sold which have paint on the end of the handles as yours does, one is red paint and the other is green. Here is a photo:

Old intact handles are much harder to find than old axe heads and someday soon a good vintage handle might be worth as much or more than a head, it is simply supply and demand. Your axe is an old survivor and you should keep it as original and intact as you can until you find out everything you can about it. If you want an old loose axe head as a user to put a new handle on and polish up shiny I can find one for you cheap up here in Penn's Woods or you can get one off Ebay for a few dollars.

 

[halfaxe]

What you say makes sense Gben and I agree for the most part. I don't know if you were referring to my recommendations or not but not all these axes are museum specimens either. This a user imo and I clean them up to look good. That is not the original handle to that axe. I would most definitely keep the original paint. I would sand off the loose wood fibers at the base of the foot for comfort in use, and any gouged areas that broke the fibers. 0000 steel wool takes off the grease and dirt but preserves the patina to my taste, when I do mine. This is how I treat most of my old axes and handles that cost me $20 and are users. If Grandpa or Abraham Lincoln did the wear, it would be different, but I do this to my users, old or not. You can go too far for sure with the cleanup. I don't even like vinegar cleaned heads. We all have our individual tastes.

 

[Bobbystat]

Wow, I didn't expect such a positive response to this axe!

The even patinaaaahhh (pinkys out fellas!) between head and handle convinces me they're a married pair- they've just renewed their vows with a new wedge

The only thing Ive done is to sharpen the edge. The material behind the edge is very uneven from forging and/or corrosion. I dont plan on fixing anything on the handle besides trying to steam out two dings below the head. The foot seems to have been flattened by forcefully setting the axe down on the floor with the head up. I'll put some oil or wax on the handle to protect it from any further drying or paint loss.

As far as worth goes, if this isn't worth more than any other axe I'm putting her to use when I get the chance. Granny may be old, but she'd love to dance.

 

[Operator1975]

What you say makes sense Gben and I agree for the most part. I don't know if you were referring to my recommendations or not but not all these axes are museum specimens either. This a user imo and I clean them up to look good. That is not the original handle to that axe. I would most definitely keep the original paint. I would sand off the loose wood fibers at the base of the foot for comfort in use, and any gouged areas that broke the fibers. 0000 steel wool takes off the grease and dirt but preserves the patina to my taste, when I do mine. This is how I treat most of my old axes and handles that cost me $20 and are users. If Grandpa or Abraham Lincoln did the wear, it would be different, but I do this to my users, old or not. You can go too far for sure with the cleanup. I don't even like vinegar cleaned heads. We all have our individual tastes.

And there are some on here that will let you know exactly why yours are wrong. Amazing, isn't it?

 

[300Six]

The foot seems to have been flattened by forcefully setting the axe down on the floor with the head up.

The head was loose and was reseated by slamming the foot on a hard surface in advance of re-wedging. You can readily see why handles feature clipped feet these days!

 

[jkpq45]

So, didja swing 'er at a chunk o' log yet?

 

[Bobbystat]

Yes I did! I dud some heavy filing and sharpening because the shoulder of the edge was about 3/8 thick near the ends and 1/4 in the middle. Once I got the thickness more uniform I used DMT stones to put an somewhat convex edge on and went to split some old 2"x14" joist scraps with this and my Estwing 12" hatchet.

The hatchet was sharper and more precise for kindling but some splits required multiple hits. The axe, however, fell through the wood like nothing. I wasnt even putting half power into my swings because it was pouring outside and I was splitting under my 6'5" garage door!

This puppy should handle the occasional camping trip/backyard fire no problem.

 

[jstare]

That axe is a very nice find, its nice to find an axe that still has the original handle in usable shape. I wouldn't do much to the handle like some others have suggested, leaving the original patina is nice when possible. The best thing to do would be to just apply some boiled linseed oil to that handle. It won't change the patina but it will soak in and offer some protection to prevent the handle from drying out and cracking or moisture getting getting into the wood and causing damage.