New guy saying'' Hello".

U

UPAROPE

Joined
Apr 16, 2003
Messages
8
I am just starting to make knives as a hobby and this site is great help. I dont have much in the way of tools,other than a used Coote 2x72 grinderthat I got online,and a drill press. But I am not afraid to go dumpster diving for a deal.I got a tablesaw yesterday.No motor,but I have a few of those under the bench. I have been trying to get the feel for things by grinding on scrap steel and am going to attempt my first real steel(1095). I have profiled a small utilitie style knife.After it was done, it actually looked like a knife! But when I tried to drill out the pin holes and a 1/4" lanyard hole,the drillbit dulled FAST!! The steel around the hole kind of looks like it melted and then cooled.Kind of like a volcano,if that helps. Could the steel be workhardening? I was using a cutting oil as a coolant.Should I not use it? Any how I have a three day weekend and am going to try to finish this knife. If I do maybe I can figure out how to get a picture of it posted here. Thanks for reading this!! I am off to grind in the shop.:D
 
Welcome to BFC.:D Some 1095 is only semi annealed, so that might account for the drilling problem. Your drill speed could be too high also. might want to try around 350-450 RPM, and plenty of lube/coolant.
As most pin, and tubing stock is oversized, you also might want to drill those holes with an "F" drill bit for 1/4".
On the other sizes,
1/16" = #52
3/32" = #41
1/8" = #30
5/32" = #21
3/16" = #10
Use these bits on the handle material too, as it shrinks back a little after drilling. Use good sharp bits. ;)
 
Welcome aboard. This is the best place in the world for getting advice. These people are the best. As far as drilling, go get some cobalt bits. They may a alittle more money, but they are worth it. Cobalt handles the heat alittle better than highspeed steel. The hole that you descibes has been what I call "slicked." It sounds like the dull drill bit did start to workharden the steel or as Mike said, the steel may not have been fully anealed. Anyways, have a great time finishing that knife.

Luke Smart
 
Welcome to Shop Talk! You're gonna dig this place, there're more good vibes here than in all the rest of the web combined. People here are the most helpful and sharing I've ever known. Without them I'd still be a little grunt in a small town thinking I was doing great work - when the truth is with the help here I may be able to do great work some day. These folks have shaved years off my learning curve. Don't be shy about asking questions, and don't be shy about sharing your work. Honest criticism is the best teacher there is.

By the way, it sure sounds like these guys have your problem figured out, and cobalt bits are the way to go. If you have more of the same stock you may want to anneal it before you start drilling next time. You might also wish to drill before you do any grinding, as this will let your blank lay nice and flat on the table and give you lots of room for clamping. (A helicoptering blade can get real exciting real fast!)
 
Carbide is the answer. I found some drillbits and what look like countersink style bits at a garage sale.$2.00 for a small coffecan full.:D Cut cleaner than anything I tried before. Thanks for the help.
 
Uparope,

You must have the proverbial luck 'o the Irish! May I ask where you found a used Coote? I've looked on and off for over a year now and haven't found anything affordable that was in any way usable without major work.
 
Thanks for the tips guys> Bill I got the grinder from a friend of a friend who used to make duck decoys in the Upper Peninsula of MI. Did all the dealing via e-mail, thats what I meant by online.
 
Welcome aboard!

Sounds like a lucy find, and don't knock the Coote, that is my first real grinder, and while it aint' much compared to a Square wheel or Frink, it's a good solid machine. Much better than the 2x42 Craftsman I started on.:D
 
Originally posted by Will52100
Welcome aboard!

Sounds like a lucy find, and don't knock the Coote, that is my first real grinder, and while it aint' much compared to a Square wheel or Frink, it's a good solid machine. Much better than the 2x42 Craftsman I started on.:D
Click to expand...


I agree. And, if it vibrates, get a set of balanced pulleys, that should clear up that problem.:D
 
Thanx for the answer, Uparope. For a while there I thought maybe you found the one I've been looking for...

Back to my weekly searches - seems nobody wants to sell the good ones.
 
Thanks Mike. It does shake a bit and the belt tracks when I move left to right.I adjusted the tension alot but still move. Any fixes?? And how/where can I get my wheels balanced?? Thanks for any help:)
 
I guess you could have a machinist true and balance them, but it would cost you about as much as buying a set of balanced 3 step pulleys.
http://www.maskapulleys.com/
Or call Rob Frink at Beaumont Metal Works. He probably stocks them.
It sounds like your idler wheel is not crowned enough, that is why you are having a tracking problem. Rob would be glad to fix that also, or you could wrap a couple of layers of electrical, duct, or masking tape(3/4"wide) around the center of the idler, making a high point as it were.
http://www.beaumontmetalworks.com/

Edited to add; use a good automotive belt on the grinder, of the proper width.
 
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