New Gyuto

BloodrootBlades

BloodrootBlades

Joined
Nov 29, 2011
Messages
128
This is one of my first gyutos of this type. Love any comments/critiques. Balance is 1.5 cm forward of the handle on the pinch. Assymetric grind- convex on the right and full-flat on the left with 80/20 sharpening. Blade is from an old lumbermill sawblade that we've tested extensively. HRC 62-63. D-handle with our stabilized spalted/ambrosia maple burl, brass filet and African blackwood.

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Thanks for looking!

~Luke
 
Really liking the profile, very similar to a DT, must be crazy thin if only 1.5 cm in front of ferrule. Nice work on the handle.
 
Looks great! I've wanting to try that style grind for awhile now. Make a lefty and I'll take it off your hands :)
 
There really isn't anything bad I can say about it. It looks great and I'd love to have one just like it.
 
Thanks for the kind words everybody! It is very thin and has a distal taper, which together help give it the balance I wanted, but it's slightly stouter than a true "laser"- very thin behind the edge, but I wanted it to be a workhorse and not too delicate. The customer we built it for is going to put it through the paces for sure. capid1, I VERY rarely build knives like this (or many of any style really) that aren't custom orders, but if I do I'll remember what you said! Thanks again,

~Luke
 
You really know how to make a kitchen knife Luke, and a good looking one at that. I haven't seen a single one of yours with imbalanced visual proportions.

EDIT: The laser that Tom at Sharp and Shiny reviewed is one of the best looking I've seen.
 
Wow, Thanks Don, that's one of the most encouraging things I've ever heard, considering you're a quality knifemaker yourself and one that I respect. Thank you for saying that. I just decided a few weeks ago to go full-time, after 4 out of 5 years in my Ph.D program. If there's ever a time I've needed encouragement it's now! Best,

~Luke
 
Luke,
I am about ready to make my first chefs knife for my mother. She is 87 and her hands are not strong enough to handle a full sized knife so I am going to make it with about a 6" blade. Please expand on your assymetric grind and 80/20 sharpening. How do you do a convex grind? I have done full flat and hollow grinds. That is a beautiful knife. Thanks for your help.

Tim
 
tim37a said:
Luke,
I am about ready to make my first chefs knife for my mother. She is 87 and her hands are not strong enough to handle a full sized knife so I am going to make it with about a 6" blade. Please expand on your assymetric grind and 80/20 sharpening. How do you do a convex grind? I have done full flat and hollow grinds. That is a beautiful knife. Thanks for your help.
Click to expand...

Tim, below is a response I gave to someone who asked a similar question on the same grind on another knife that I pulled from another thread:

Sure, thanks for asking. The food-release is good on a knife like this, which is the main reason it is convexed at all. Less of the surface of the knife is in contact with the food at a time with a convex blade, but by nature convex blades can't get as thin behind the edge as flat-ground blades can, so in order to reduce food stiction you tend to increase the pressure required to cut by a little bit. Of course these differences are merely academic unless the flat grind and the convex grind are extremely thin already. With a knife like this I've optimized/compromised the thinness behind the edge AND food-release by only convexing the side that the product falls away from during normal right-handed use. The complaints with asymetric grinds (like many Japanese knives) is that they "steer" to one side or the other and you have to compensate with your technique to create a straight cut. On a knife like this there is NO steering due to the thinness of the blade and the subtlety of the convexity. My customers are often worried about this with an asymmetric grind, but invariably they've said that it does not steer at all. Asymetric blades often cut the best if the sharpening geometry roughly matches the asymmetry of the blade for some reason AND asymmetric sharpening often allows the total (included) angle of the cutting edge to be less than it would be if it were 50/50 but still be able to support itself. This is one of the main reasons that sashimi knives that cut very delicate materials such as raw fish into translucent slices are often single-bevel- they can simply get sharper.

I would start with a full flat grind, then when it's still pretty thick use the slackbelt to round the blade on one side. I use a rotary platen on a KMG, but it's about $500 just for that attachment and they don't last very long if you're using them a lot and you can do the same thing with the slackbelt if you're careful.

Good luck!

~Luke
 
Thanks Luke. I'll go buy some cheap steel at Ace Hdwr. and practice before I use the S35VN.

Tim
 
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