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Old-Duckman

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Jul 11, 2019
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I'm 64 and got my first knife (Boy Scout knife) when I was about 10. Started learning sharpening skills shortly after.

I consider myself a pretty good freehand sharpener, albeit with non-"super" steel blades. I use a Norton 8" stone, the tan side and finish off with a leather strop charged with "White Diamond" polishing compound. I get "hair popping" results with this method.

However, I have only sharpened up to D2 using my methods and am pleased with my results. The Concern: I ordered a ZT 0462 which uses CPM 20CV steel and, well reading up on that steel and how difficult it can be to sharpen...frankly it has me concerned.

It seems like diamond "stones" are the way to go with any "super steel". I don't own any and I know they can be pricey. I have read that if you keep it stropped that one can avoid sharpening for a considerable amount of time.

So this is my first post and thought I'd come to the experts to get some opinions. I hope this isn't a "what is the best motor oil for my car" type question, though I fear it is...Any and all opinions would be appreciated.
 
Welcome to BF and enjoy!:thumbsup: Wealth of great info and experts here!
 
A silicon carbide stone will work just fine for that steel. They are not expensive stones and are easy to come by.
 
The major issue with M390, 20CV, and the like is in the machining; edge maintenance is not too difficult, and since you're already used to D2 (which is on the higher end of hardness), you shouldn't really experience any issues even if you continue to use your present methods.

All but the hardest of high-tech powder-metallurgy steels are easy enough to maintain with just a strop. That said, touch-up sharpening is definitely best done with ceramic stones, and initial edge-setting best done with diamond stones.
 
Hello and welcome to the forum!

The DMT Deluxe Aligner kit offers 3 stones + alignment rod. At around $60, it might be your best bet for an inexpensive system vs buying a few stones.
 
20cv isnt that bad. I had more trouble with my 770 in s35vn than I did with my 20cv (562cf and 470).

You may have to work on the edge out of the box. ZT is hit and miss with their sharpening at the factory. My 770cf was good, but I had to send it in for warranty and they buggered it, and my 470 was iffy brand new (off center apex, 2 different angles on the bevel). My "new" aluminum 770 however is very sharp and almost perfect, if a little obtuse. I'll let it be for now.

Great knives, just wish they would invest in a robot for sharpening like Spyderco does.
 
Glad you joined the gang at this party. They are a great group who you will enjoy I'm sure.

My everyday compact, affordable, versatile, fast, no messy liquids, a knife and other tools sharpener is the Spyderco SharpMaker, the first tool Spyderco made for the knife world. I can freehand, but the Sharpmaker just makes it so easy to hold the proper knife edge angles and is great for fast touch ups I use it for 90%+ of my knife sharpening. It works very well on kitchen knives which keeps knife collecting an acceptable hobby by my better half.

 
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Welcome, good choice on the ZT, I'm positive you'll be satisfied with that purchase.

As far as sharpening goes, I'm still a newb and not half as good as many on here but I'll throw a recommendation in for the Spyderco Sharpmaker.
 
Diamonds are a (sharpening) man's best friend too;)
Seriously though, a decent diamond hone will cut down the time spent on sharpening dramatically. I use DMT's magna-guide diafold kit (60$ on the big river site) on my more "difficult" (ie m390 and family, and elmax) to sharpen knives.
 
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