New here. Starting on my first knife.

[flynfrog]

I have done a few handles on blanks this will be my first grinding the blank.

I wanted a new knife for the kitchen.

1095

Just got the grinder today. comments criticism.

 

[DevinT]

Well, if you go to bed thinking about knives and wake up thinking about knives you’ll be a good knife maker.

Most Japanese and French kitchen knives are more triangular and not so much parallel.

Looks like a good start.

Hoss

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

I agree with Devin that the shape is off a bit. The tip should be raised making the spine straighter (no rounded drop) and the edge should rise to the spine more. This lifts the handle away from the cutting board when using the knife and makes the knife more ergonomic.
You can regrind your blade profile and will loose only about half an inch of length. Just raise the tip by regrinding the edge as in the image below.

 

[scott kozub]

As noted above. It looks a little like the blade is still curving up at the heel. The blade edge should be parallel or angled very slightly down at the heel. If it isn't you will have to rock the handle down towards the cutting board to make contact at the heel and your knuckles may hit or it will be awkward to use. Having a short flat section at the heel is good so you have a couple inches they lay flat on the board when chopping.

1095 requires precise heat treating. Do you have an oven and parks 50 or are you sending it out?

Just a couple tweaks and it'll be a great cutter.

 

[flynfrog]

Thanks for the comments. I should have clarified. I wanted more of a santku style knife hence the shape. I didnt notice the kickup at the rear until I am looking at the pictures this morning I was trying to keep it flatter back there. I take a look today. I am still debating on the Heat treat. I will probably send this one out but I have a friend with a ceramics Kiln I can build a controller for but by the time I buy a container of Parks I am not sure its worth it.

 

[weo]

I agree with most of the above. Especially the good start.

It looks a little like the blade is still curving up at the heel....Having a short flat section at the heel is good

I always feel I have to chime in here on this point (sorry Scott).
I think what Scott's referring to here is the part I circled in red.

I was taught that there shouldn't be any truly flat areas on the edge at the heel for this type of knife, but there also shouldn't be an obvious visible arc/curve either. You want a shallow enough curve in the last couple of inches so that when using it, you feel a 'stop' when the heel hits the cutting board, but when looking down the edge (like you were checking for warps) there's no true flatness at the heel.

You definitely don't want any 'rocking' of the blade at the heel.

The black line is how I would change the profile.

 

[flynfrog]

Thanks for the advice. I am beat from my bike ride today Ill fix the profile next time in the shop.

 

[flynfrog]

Got the profile tuned back in

took it to some fine grits and found some defect.

Got things cleaned up and now I just need to straighter on the plunge lines.