New Hinderer XM-18 Sharpening information

A

ap1169

Joined
Sep 5, 2014
Messages
190
I just received my FIRST Hinderer XM-18 3" slicer. What do you recommend as a knife sharpener? What angle should I be using when I purchase a new sharpener. I use to use a Spyderco crock sticks, but I can not find them. I carried a Darrel Ralph Stellite EDC which needs very little sharpening. Happy New Year and thank you, Robert
 
There is no magic in sharpening an XM over any other quality EDC.
You can send it in to the Ranch for sharpening.
I have used strops and/or a sharpmaker for edge maintenance.
I use a Wicked Edge (WEPS) but depends on your budget.
Solutions above range from $10- $700.

You can use a sharpie or a digital angle finder but XM bevels are in the 22*-24* range. If using a SM use the 20* slots.
 
Last edited:
Also as Rubi has stated along with others in past posts an occasional stropping can prolong the edge and avoid un necessary sharpening, like Rubi has said " once you take it off, you can't put it back on".

Happy New Year Guys!

Joe
 
When it comes to stropping I use an old Leather belt with car polish and a home made strop block made of 1"by stock covered (tightly) with a piece of denim.
 
Never used one.

Did some reading. Not inexpensive, IF budget is a consideration I'd go Spyderco Sharpmaker.
IF fool Proof ease of use as well as final outcome is the goal - WEPS.
 
Last edited:
New XM-18 owner here....3.5 Spanto. Received it with what was claimed to be the factory edge...this looked to be true (appeared unused), but ranked as the dullest blade I own so not sure if it was accurate. Sharpie and EdgePro put that edge at about 24 degrees. EdgePro gave it a much better edge, but still not a slicer by any means...may be the nature of the thick spanto blade(?). Would you discourage regrinding to a steeper angle for a 'sharper' edge?
 
You measured it out and it came up *24, that sounds right. You can get that bevel angle sharp enough to slice paper cleanly with no problem, no need to go more acute. Just stay with it and/or strop it.
I like a working edge on my XM's but do go until I can slice bond paper.
 
As Rubi likes to say.......you can always take it off but you can never put it back on........not sure if he was talking about the edge on an XM or a latex bodysuit......but either way......solid advice.......
I keep the spantos I have sharpened at about 22 degrees per side......I use a Wicked Edge.......the blade is razor sharp and I have one bald arm to prove it......
So......if you would like a steeper angle.......go slowly.......try it one degree at a time and see how you like it.........but I wouldn't advise going any steeper than 20 degrees on that blade.......I actually won't go past 22........
 
SharpJax said:
New XM-18 owner here....3.5 Spanto. Received it with what was claimed to be the factory edge...this looked to be true (appeared unused), but ranked as the dullest blade I own so not sure if it was accurate. Sharpie and EdgePro put that edge at about 24 degrees. EdgePro gave it a much better edge, but still not a slicer by any means...may be the nature of the thick spanto blade(?). Would you discourage regrinding to a steeper angle for a 'sharper' edge?
Click to expand...

Apparently it was a "used" factory edge as they don't come dull from the manufacturer.

The knife isn't that thick behind the bevel that you can't sharpen it (23 or 24 degrees) and have it cut very well. A properly sharpened spanto/slicer/wharnie/etc. will do most cutting chores just fine. But, these aren't super thin slicers, these are working knives, designed favor robustness and durability versus a fine kitchen knife.
 
24 degrees and finished her up with stropping seems to be very good working edge and will push cut paper.

DSCN3628.jpg
 
Many thanks for all the helpful input. Though my edge is much improved from the way it started, I still think it needs some more work on it based on what I'm reading and seeing here. Back to the water stones! Thanks guys.
 
Stay after it. I'm confident you'll be happy when it "pops".
Then the key is regularly stropping to keep the edge maintained between sharpening.
 
Thank you - I appreciate your time and the encouragement. I'll post when I have at it again!
 
Hey Marco, are you talkin 24 degrees per side? If so, no wonder it wont cut, thats an incredibly obtuse angle. Personally, I keep my knives at 15 degrees perside and lower, most at around 12 to 13 perside and they cut like razors. But sometimes the grind is too thick, like on the xm and if you go that low you'll have a huge bevel that looks dumb. You have to go of what the knife is used fir and hiw thick it is, take my Van heerden m16, uts about .014 on average so a 24 degree inclusive bevel looks thinner than most 30 to 40 degree bevels on thicker knives. And it cuts like a champ too, If you have any questions, you have my email, feel free to contact me anytime and I'll do my best to help you out. Take care my friend.
Alex.
 
A bevel angle of 24* per/side is not the reason the knife "won't cut". The knife won't cut because it has been dulled
With proper sharpening the XM will perform any and all cutting duties to include push cutting paper , arm shaving, etc.
Please don't (or strongly consider before doing so) take an XM to the bevel angles alluded to. 22*-24* is fine and can be made very very (scarey) sharp.
Your XM is made to provide a lifetime of service, don't change that by the unnecessary removal of blade steel that you can never get back.
 
A bevel angle of 24* per/side is not the reason the knife "won't cut". The knife won't cut because it has been dulled
With proper sharpening the XM will perform any and all cutting duties to include push cutting paper , arm shaving, etc.
Please don't (or strongly consider before doing so) take an XM to the bevel angles alluded to. 22*-24* is fine and can be made very very (scarey) sharp.
Your XM is made to provide a lifetime of service, don't change that by the unnecessary removal of blade steel that you can never get back.
 
No, it was dull when I got it and my first sharpening was a HUGE improvement over what appeared to be an entirely unused blade (though I have no real way of knowing that). I'm sure it didn't come from the factory that way based on his reputation. I did take it easy on that first sharpening, starting out with a 400 stone assuming the basics were already there. Well, last night I went back at it with the EdgePro, this time starting with a 220 stone and making the full spectrum progression up through that 6000 mirror maker tape. This improved on my first efforts to the point where it easily slides through paper now...and, yes, I did keep it at the angle it started at...24 degrees. Just needed a little extra initial effort on the sharpening to get it to pop. Thanks again for all the input here!
 
I didn't say You dulled it. I said..... I'm not going to repeat what I said. Anyone cares - go back and read it.
What I do not want misunderstood are two(2) things.
- Knives come from the Ranch - Sharp.
And
- Don't take an XM to 12 - 15 degrees a side.

Glad it worked out.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top