New Khuk Owner - Advice on altering handle

S

spence

Joined
Jan 11, 2002
Messages
533
Kids:

I just bought a 20" Sirupati from Bill's stock. (It was the purchase that I intended to make 10 years ago when I first heard about HI - it just took me awhile to get around to it.) Anyway, the portion of the grip above the rings is a little large for my hand. I'd like to reduce the diameter a bit. Anyone out there have any advice before I break out the spokeshave and sandpaper?

On an unrelated subject, I understand that some of y'all have Escrima/Kali experience, which is my background, too. My only live-blade training is with a Moro barong, which is a totally different animal. Any words of wisdom on what works/doesn't work with a weight-forward blade design?
 
..you feel, so maybe "kids" is appropriate :eek:
Since you mention a spokeshave, it must be a wood handle. I'd cut a sanding block just a 1/4" narrower than the space between the bolster and the first groove. Take it down slowly by hand, crossgrain, with a coarse paper and finish with 400 to 600 grit. There isn't a great deal of pressure on the wood when the handle is bradded on, originally, but in its' travels it may have picked up additional stress, so slow changes are just a good precaution. Sand off the rest of the finish with the fine paper, and rub in the oil :) For a good grip and some handling facility, an oil finish would serve better than most options.
 
Spence,

On Eskrima, I have been learning Eskrima for about 7 months and the only live-blade training I have done is with the khukuri. In my practice, I have found the khukuri to be excellent for techniques involving the edge. However, I have had a difficult time with techniques involving the tip. The difficulty that I've had has been primarily with khukuris that have more of a recurve. I have had much less difficulty doing techniques involving the tip with my Gelbu Special than with my Baby GRS, my WWII khukuri, my BAS and my 15 inch Ang Khola.

Broken Arrow, a long time Cantina member has done some test cutting with a 20 inch Sirupati on a tatami man that he created with some good success. He could give you even more info than I have. Most of my cutting has been on trees since I do not have the knowledge of tatami cutting.

Hope this helps..

Btw, Welcome to the Cantina..

Arvind
 
I recall Yvsa mentioning the wood should be treated (linseed oil or the line) before working it. This was to prevent cracking.

Will
 
Arvind:

Thanks for the data.

I expected differences with a thrust. Needless to say, they were there. Any thrusts in which you turn your wrist (like a Western boxing-style punch) are out. However, straight thrusts with no wrist turn (think Chinese-style vertical punch) work fine.

The blade design doesn't allow for draw-cuts, but that's just something to get used to. Due to its weight, I don't think any of the meet-and-follow techniques that are possible with a barong are do-able with a khuk - no biggie.

The only thing that troubles me is that I think that most of the parries and defenses that I use aren't practical with the khuk - the weight thing again. Yes, the parries are possible, but they're too slow. Gotta figure this one out.

S.
 
Spence before you get too far along on taking the handle down in size.... It's a good idea to work on the area just above the ring. Use a coarse file to bring it down just a bit right on the flat top side of the ring.
The finish needs to be removed right there for the super glue to penetrate.
When you get the finish off coat the top of the ring liberally with a good liquid super glue to let the wood absorb as much of it as it can into the ring itself.
This will help to prevent the ring from chipping out when you start bringing its diameter down in size.
This is definitely a case in which the old adage, "An ounce of prevention is better than a pound of cure." really works.
I had the first handle ring I took down in size chip out on me. I was able to fix it because the wood chipped cleanly and I salvaged the small piece and glued it back in.
Being end grain in that area it doesn't have any strength or support. Soaking it down in super glue helps to provide both.

And Will is correct with the linseed oil. It doesn't have to be linseed oil I suppose, but I prefer it to moisturize the wood deeper than what the tung oils will primarily, my opinion and not necessarily true.;)
I do this if the wood is very dry as one piece I was working on that was and cracked because of the way I was treating it.
I was getting down and dirty and screwed up as usual when I do that.
I may have not had the same problems if I had of worked the handle down over several days, but I think a good soaking is good for the wood anyway.

By the way.....
Welcome to the Cantina!!!!!!!:)
 
Thanks for the additional details, Yvsa. It's good to know how to avoid the pitfalls.

Now that I have the point of the poor critter back in shape, I'm going to work on the handle this coming weekend. Of course, that assumes that neither work, nor my fiancee place other demands on my time.

S.
 
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