Recommendation? New kiln, steel recomendation

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Aug 28, 2019
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I started making knifes a year or so ago. I have made maybe 10 finished knifes and a load more are still unfinished. So far I have sent some out for heat treatment or else used 15n20 or 8670 with a torch and canola oil. I chose these steels for there ease of heat treatment after research and reading a lot of Katrin Thomas's articles. I have been happy with the results.
I now have a cheap kiln on order. It has a programable controller with a max temp of 1922f according to the spec, which I know isn't super high.
My question is what is a good steel choice and heat treatment setup to move on from 8670 etc. I am thinking 80crv2, 52100 or maybe AEB-L although cryo will only be the freezer for now. I can obviously do accurate temps and soaks etc. now.
Also, should I invest in some proper quenching oil or quench plates? Maybe a set up that suits some complimentary steels, like one tough and one with good edge retention that are quench d the same way.
It's a hobby and I don't have lot of time so I am looking for a low hassle setup to get reliable results.
Any advice much appreciated.
 
If wanting to do Aeb-L definitely get plates to quench. Proper oil will be good as well. There are 2 different oils as well. Parks 50 is ideal for the water hardening steels (W1, W2, 1084/1095) then AAA or there’s a brand that starts with H I can’t remember are slightly slower for oil hardening steels (O1, (I think both 52100 and 80crv2 use this). Then plates for stainless and air hardening steels. I bit the bullet and ordered plates and 5 gallons of both parks 50 and AAA. Got both from maxim oil. Transferred both into sealable metal 5 gallon buckets from homedepot just for safety and to prevent accidentally melting a side (they come in plastic buckets). But with the kiln you can pretty much pick any steel you want. Most that “need” cryo will improve with freezer, improve more with dry ice and then improve more with LN. They will still work without but won’t get as hard
 
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