New knife and bolster fit

[hawkwind]

I just made this one. The blade is D2, 62HRC. Made by local guy.
The handle is IPE leftover wood from bow and the bolster bronze I found in my workshop. I still cant fit blade and bolster as I wanted, or cant imagine the way to do it other than soldering. I worked as locksmith for a time, so I know how to work metals.

Folks, when you have radiused fades from tang to blade, what methodes are you using for the fiting?

http://sweb.cz/hawkwind/loveckynuz.JPG

 

[ddavelarsen]

Hawkwind that is a beautiful handle! I think that's one of my favorites on a scandi type knife so far, ever.

I'm not sure what you're asking about the guard/blade fit. Is it the slot for the tang that you're talking about? If you're having trouble getting a perfect fit for that, you are among friends. I have the same thing every time. Remember that too loose a fit won't fill with solder either, so that's only good for so much cover up.

I almost always use JB Weld, which is a metalic epoxy, very strong. The guard is supported by the handle and ricasso for strength, and the epoxy should be sufficient to seal the guard joint from moisture. But it has to fit very closely not to be visible.

 

[Ripper]

Hawkwind that is a beautiful handle! I think that's one of my favorites on a scandi type knife so far, ever. ...

hawkwind,
I agree with Dave: beautiful handle and very nice work overall.

...Folks, when you have radiused fades from tang to blade, what methodes are you using for the fiting?

In regards to guard/ blade fit; (on the couple I've done) I carefully file the ends of the slot to match (somewhat) the radius of the tang and have the shoulders of the blade sit flush on the guard. It almost looks like you have inlet the blade into the guard some. I'm sure there are other ways to do it, but this has worked for me.

As Dave mentioned, you need a tight fit: there is a lot of one/two file strokes then checking the fit involved.

I solder but ,again as Dave mentions, many makers are using JB Weld. Terry Primos has a good tutorial on his site about "Solderless Guards".

Regards,
Gre