New knife with a bad bur along one side...how do I sharpen it without chipping?

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Feb 25, 2013
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My wife and boys gave me a Case Damascus Peanut for Father's Day! The knife is perfect except that it has a catchy, bur along the length of one side of the blade. I want to sharpen it out, but I want to avoid chipping the blade. Any pointers or do I just sharpen it as I normally would?

Thanks!
 
if you have a strop, just strop it until you get rid of the burr and the knife is sharp. you can also strop it on cardstock or cut up a cereal box and use a piece of it with some rouge on it.
 
Case very commonly leaves some pretty big honkin' burrs on their edges, and you'll occasionally see them on the shoulders of the bevels as well. Sometimes, stropping alone on leather with or without compound won't clean them up. I've used some medium/high-grit sandpaper (wet/dry type, in the 400 - 1000 grit range) to clean them up. Same as stropping, but with more aggressiveness. If using this method, start with a higher grit first, and only step back down in grit if it's not working quite well enough. It's better to fix the sandpaper in place with temporary adhesive, on hardwood or glass or other hard backing. That'll minimize the rounding of the edge's apex, as might otherwise happen on softer backing. It also makes it easier to avoid scratching the sides of the blade above the bevels, when the backing is firm and the paper is firmly affixed.

BTW, the sandpaper stropping is a great way to maintain Case's stainless (Tru-Sharp) blades, if/when regular stropping (leather w/compound) isn't enough. They respond very nicely to it. :thumbup:

The damascus in your knife should also respond to the sandpaper (it's carbon steel with extra nickel content, which is what shows up in the damascus' patterning on the blade).


David
 
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Thanks for your help!

I don't have a strop but I will try the cereal box. What is rouge?

Polishing compound. Green (chromium oxide), white (usually aluminum oxide) or black (silicon carbide; sometimes 'emery') all usually work fairly well for stropping carbon steels and simpler stainless steels, such as in your Case. My preference for Case's blades is the green compound.

'Rouge' is often associated with red compound (iron oxide). But that stuff doesn't usually work too well with hardened blade steels; compound is too soft, and it's intended more for softer metals (jewelry, brass, nickel, etc.).


David
 
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