New knife with a Case of the mush.

G

Goozle63

Joined
Mar 7, 2011
Messages
45
Well, like many of you have probably seen from my other thread, I got a new trapper not too long ago. I really love this knife, alot. The scales look amazing, and it's been a great user, but now I'm not so sure about it.

When I first opened up the box I noticed the clip blade was off center, and it has been rubbing some. I told myself I wouldn't let it bother me, no big deal right? So I blew it off and continued to carry it everyday since I got it. However, something else has come to my attention and I don't know why it took so long to notice.

The problem is the "walk and talk", but only the clip blade has the issue. The spey has the most amazing walk and talk, with a good pull and a powerful snap. It also takes a good push to overcome that, then it returns to a closed position with another powerful snap. The clip point blade doesn't share the same enthusiasm, so to speak. It's got a much easier pull, with a mushy follow through and then a really weak "snap" into place. It's also much easier to overcome, taking very little force to fold it. Once more followed by a mushy-ness.

I don't know what to do, I love this knife so I don't want to return it. I hear Case has just about the best custom service you can find, so I was planning on calling them after the weekend. But I'm kind of disappointed that I may have to send it in.

Have you ever had this happen to one of your Cases? Please feel free to share your thoughts or advice.

J.D.
 
I had the same with a Case swayback Wharnie, ...it just no real snap, its a single bladed knife, and it did get to me slightly.
Have you given the knife a damn good clean, then oiled and worked it up?
 
Case folders have been known to be a little slow/sticky/mushy at the pivot. Oftentimes, it can be fixed (or, at least improved) with some flushing out of the pivot. For whatever reason, they've been known to be a little dirty in the pivot when new.

I've been in the habit of flushing out the pivot with some WD-40, while exercising the joint (repeated opening/closing). The WD-40 will flush out whatever grit/grime/gummy oil might be there. More often than not for me, this helps smooth out the walk & talk. Might give it a try before sending it back to Case, unless it's something you'd rather have them fix.
 
I wipe it down after every use, or clean it with soap after food prep. That's about the extent of the cleaning though. I try putting some oil in the joints now and see if that helps any. What did you do about your wharnie?
 
Campbellclanman said:
I had the same with a Case swayback Wharnie, ...it just no real snap, its a single bladed knife, and it did get to me slightly.
Have you given the knife a damn good clean, then oiled and worked it up?
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This is a very good question/suggestion. I had one that was a little weak and mushy so I put some mineral oil on the joint and worked it a few times to get the oil in. The result was, the thick "grease" that they had on the joint was actually slowing it down and causing it to be that way. Once it was cleaned out with a less viscous lubricant the walk and talk both returned to an acceptable standard. Give it a shot if you haven't already. :thumbup:
 
If it were stiff but not snapping I would say it might need to be cleaned, but if it is very weak that's not good.

A good cleaning (if you haven't tried already) might help the blade move more freely, and that might allow even a weak spring to put a little snap into the action.

If it is still real lazy, contact Case about helping you out.
 
I just oiled up the pivots, it defilently helped. It's not quite as good as the spey, but it is better. I did notice that the oil seemed to force some black goo out of the pivot area. Probably the lubricant they use at the factory, like Obsessed with Edges said. I'll continue to carry it over the weekend and work the blades, hopefully that'll get out all of the goo. :thumbup:

J.D.
 
oeser said:
This is a very good question/suggestion. I had one that was a little weak and mushy so I put some mineral oil on the joint and worked it a few times to get the oil in. The result was, the thick "grease" that they had on the joint was actually slowing it down and causing it to be that way. Once it was cleaned out with a less viscous lubricant the walk and talk both returned to an acceptable standard. Give it a shot if you haven't already. :thumbup:
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Jared is on to it!...if your knife still isnt any better with what you have done...give it a real work over in hot water and diswashing soap..lots of it...work the hang out of it...then rinse with real hot water again.....use a compressed air blower gun to get 100% of water out...WD40 all through the joints again...work again......re-blow all that WD40 out with your air...and Mineral oil your joints and work again...I bet ya it will be real good then. :thumbup:
 
Goozle63 said:
I just oiled up the pivots, it defilently helped. It's not quite as good as the spey, but it is better. I did notice that the oil seemed to force some black goo out of the pivot area. Probably the lubricant they use at the factory, like Obsessed with Edges said. I'll continue to carry it over the weekend and work the blades, hopefully that'll get out all of the goo. :thumbup:

J.D.
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Ah, yes. Black Goo. That sounds familiar. I think it might be (in part, at least) some leftover buffing/polishing compound, from the final 'fluff & buff', before the knife goes out the door. Mixed in with whatever oil they lube it with and, PRESTO!.... Black Goo.

Sounds like the oiling helped. Don't be afraid to hit it again, a time or two, if need be. Then, once you're confident the goo is out of it, you might give it a bath in warm water & dish soap. Rinse it thoroughly in nearly hot water, then dry it out completely and re-lube (lightly), with your preferred oil. Once the pivot is nice & clean, only a light touch of oil is needed, so it won't start to collect more dirt & stuff.
 
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I had the same problem with "mushy" blades on one of the 3.5" wharnie trappers that I recently purchased. I oiled the joints and used to the knife hoping that things would "loosen up". They didn't so I emailed Case's service department. They replied sending me an email saying that repairs were taking 8 - 10 weeks. The service person suggested that the springs probably needed to be adjusted. After sending in the knife, I received a post card saying that they received the knife and that it would be 8 - 10 weeks before I have the knife back. However, 4 - 5 days later the knife arrived home with perfect snap. I have to say that I am very impressed with Case's service department and that particular wharnie trapper has been carried a lot since its return.

- David
 
I just might give it bath and a good cleaning if it doesn't correct its self with some more working. I'm hoping once all the goo comes out it will be in great shape! I really appreciate the advice though. :thumbup:

J.D.
 
certainly nothing wrong with duncan's suggestion. i'm a little lazy so i take the knife outside & blow it out well with wd40 under pressure, wipe it good & put a little remoil in the joints. you would be amazed at the junk in the joints.--dennis
 
I pretty much do this with most new Case knives I buy. I blow the joints out pretty much immediately if a spring feels mushy. Seems to work like a charm for me.
 
Magus said:
I pretty much do this with most new Case knives I buy. I blow the joints out pretty much immediately if a spring feels mushy. Seems to work like a charm for me.
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I do this with all my slipjoints, regardless of brand. Even if the blades aren't mushy, walk and talk is always improved when you clean out the joints.

- Christian
 
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