• The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details: https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
    Price is $300 $250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
    Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.

  • Today marks the 24th anniversary of 9/11. I pray that this nation does not forget the loss of lives from this horrible event. Yesterday conservative commentator Charlie Kirk was murdered, and I worry about what is to come. Please love one another and your family in these trying times - Spark

New Koster 2009 Bushcrafter and Sheath Prototype - need comments...

Diomedes Industries

Diomedes Industries

Joined
Mar 19, 2007
Messages
7,443
Here is the new Koster blade I received last week. It has a stainless blade, stainless pins and lanyard tube and Cocobolo scales.

KosterKnifeandSheathPrototype004.jpg


KosterKnifeandSheathPrototype005.jpg


KosterKnifeandSheathPrototype006.jpg


KosterKnifeandSheathPrototype007.jpg


KosterKnifeandSheathPrototype009.jpg



Here is the prototype sheath that I have made for this blade. It is 8 ounce leather with a removable dangler. The white stitching came out a little gray, although this will lighten over time, do to the Montana Pitch Blend I used to seal it. I am learning when to apply the sealant. It is the best sealant I have used for bushcraft applications however.

I would like your comments on this sheath. Before you comment about color, dangler options or firesteel loops - I can change those fact easily. I want you to comment on the overall style and application.

I know it looks like the majority of my sheaths thus far - but here is what I want to get comments on:

1) Should I have one stitch line running the side of the sheath - or just one - with a smaller inside stitch to secure the inside of the welt?

2) Should I remove the lanyard tube from the sheath and just do a hole?

3) Should I add rivets for added strength?

4) Anything else you would change?

KosterKnifeandSheathPrototype001.jpg


KosterKnifeandSheathPrototype002.jpg


KosterKnifeandSheathPrototype003.jpg



Thanks,

TF
 
i think the sheath would look better without the lanyard tube, but, it would not
be as strong for lashing? i think

rivets were used on the original Kephart sheath. i don't really like to look at them, but they may add some necessary strength.
your stitching i'm sure makes for a reliable sheath

the stitching is fine. all good

a very nice looking sheath and purposeful.

buzz
 
I think it's just about perfect the way it is. But I gotta say I'm farther down on his list so seeing this thread doesn't help with my patience. :(
 
I like the sheath just the way it is. Nice knife too. I think Dan makes the best looking bushcraft knife.
 
if the grommet is stainless, leave it, if it's nickel.... might be worse than nothing depending on the environment.

Finish the stitching on the belt loop tab, make the "U" a "D" since those first two stitches are going to take the majority of stress in the while design.

Otherwise- dude, damned fine work.
 
Christof,

Thanks brother. The U is left that way - I have heard a D weakens it! ;) Who knows - I will test both designs and see what I think - It would take nothing to make up a little test with some scrap. I will get back to you.

It is Nickle plated Brass on the lanyard tube. It is more for looks - I don't think it really adds strength.

TF
 
koyote said:
if the grommet is stainless, leave it, if it's nickel.... might be worse than nothing depending on the environment.
Click to expand...

Why don't you like nickel? Depending on how the plating is done, nickel is generally really corrosion resistant. We used to nickel plate parts for corrosive environments all the time with excellent results. It is not like it is chrome. Maybe there is something about the leather hardware that is different?

TF: I would be very curious to hear the outcome of your stitching experiment. However, you said that you hear a D-design weakens. Meaning that a short term strength test might not give you the answer you want, if that is indeed a true statement. You might have to think of a longer term test. What I do know is that I have had a d-stitch loop hold my entire body weight off the ground.....twice in one day : ) You would think I would have learned from the first time.

As far as your sheath goes. I like it a lot. I would have to say no on adding rivets though. I personally don't like them and do not think they are necessary.

B
 
Not really a fan of the knife but that sheath is spot on, bro. I like it alot. I've got to get you to make something for my RC3.

I like the lanyard hold on the bottom and the maker's mark is looking great!
 
Great looking sheath T. I like the double stitching. Don't think the tube is needed but it looks sharp. Rivets? Hmmm, I think they would clutter an otherwise beautiful sheath.
 
Brian Andrews said:
Why don't you like nickel? Depending on how the plating is done, nickel is generally really corrosion resistant. We used to nickel plate parts for corrosive environments all the time with excellent results. It is not like it is chrome. Maybe there is something about the leather hardware that is different?

TF: I would be very curious to hear the outcome of your stitching experiment. However, you said that you hear a D-design weakens. Meaning that a short term strength test might not give you the answer you want, if that is indeed a true statement. You might have to think of a longer term test. What I do know is that I have had a d-stitch loop hold my entire body weight off the ground.....twice in one day : ) You would think I would have learned from the first time.

As far as your sheath goes. I like it a lot. I would have to say no on adding rivets though. I personally don't like them and do not think they are necessary.

B
Click to expand...

I agree on the rivets. don't see them as needed, but sierra does always doulbe up the top stitch on the seam.


It's not that I dislike nickel, but I find that the plating on the grommets is almost always bad and gets chipped or worn REALLY fast in spots, then you have brass on leather and that *can*- not *will* but *can* get nasty.
 
I think you're asking for "nit-picky-ness", since in all your 3 points, "either-or" works just fine, IMO......but I'll play along......

The nickle rivet at the btm. kinda "goes" with the D ring up at the dangler, so I say leave it.

The stitching, as you have it now, I believe is just right.

If the D is weaker than the U, then you have a bit of a contradiction going on with that single line under the D ring on the dangler.....here again, just nit-pickin.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top