New look for kitchen knives

Howard1

Howard1

Joined
Jan 16, 2017
Messages
207
I am making my first nakiri and Serbian cleaver. I am using a full flat grind because I totally screwed up the Scandi grinds. I had in mind to do a more rough finish sort of like the look after heat treat. I am using aeb-l, stock removal, and typically polish to a 2000 grit and buff. Again I am looking for a more rugged look. I read a post that was very negative about acid etching stainless. Any advice would be appreciated.
 
Hengelo_77 said:
Have it bead blasted
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Great idea but I don’t have a bead blaster. Thought about getting one many times but they are big and I am avoiding buying a tool that I may only use this one time. But it is a solution and I appreciate it.
 
Stone washing stainless is a thing. Soaking in FCl (and then cold bluing) will stain/oxidize stainless. Tumble in a homemade plastic container with small round stones. If you neutralize and oil I don't see how that would be bad for the steel.

It seems like linking is not working, google "stone wash aeb-l knifedogs".
 
FredyCro said:
Stone washing stainless is a thing. Soaking in FCl (and then cold bluing) will stain/oxidize stainless. Tumble in a homemade plastic container with small round stones. If you neutralize and oil I don't see how that would be bad for the steel.

It seems like linking is not working, google "stone wash aeb-l knifedogs".
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Excellent. Defiantly doable. Thanks
 
FredyCro said:
Stone washing stainless is a thing. Soaking in FCl (and then cold bluing) will stain/oxidize stainless. Tumble in a homemade plastic container with small round stones. If you neutralize and oil I don't see how that would be bad for the steel.

It seems like linking is not working, google "stone wash aeb-l knifedogs".
Click to expand...

cold bluing a kitchen knife?

i don't know if thats food safe, even after neutralizing and oiling the blade...
 
GAGL said:
cold bluing a kitchen knife?

i don't know if thats food safe, even after neutralizing and oiling the blade...
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That's a valid point. I think I researched this at one point but I might have confused it with some other etching process. There is a lots of info on etching and food safety, so OP should research it himself.
 
You don’t cold blue at all to stonewash stainless. Some do it on Damascus to increase contrast but for stonewashed stainless it’s simply etch and stonewash
 
Daniel Carraher said:
You don’t cold blue at all to stonewash stainless. Some do it on Damascus to increase contrast but for stonewashed stainless it’s simply etch and stonewash
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So ferric is ok for food! The article I read made it souls like it’s like coating with radium
 
I use feric + perma blue to darken my logo on stainless. Leaves a really black finish, not sure on chemical reaction and food safety.
 
FredyCro said:
I use feric + perma blue to darken my logo on stainless. Leaves a really black finish, not sure on chemical reaction and food safety.
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If I may I would like to follow up with you on darkening my etch. Mine is deep but colorless. Would love to actually read it. Thanks for the reply
 
Thanks everyone. I’ve been making since 2017 and feel that I have always been supported by ya’ll.
 
Don't use a ffg in a cleaver/nakiri. Food will stick bad. Do a light convex instead.
 
Ferric Chloride is highly soluble and should be fine in very low doses. It's mostly table salt and iron, it's the other random junk that is probably the big risk. Give it a good wash to neutralise the Ferric and that will remove basically all of it.
As I understand it, the issue with cold blue is it contains selenium which actually gets into the finish. It's probably not a big risk, but I would avoid it.
You might be able to rust it enough to do a rust blue, but the stonewash is probably your best option.
 
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