New member// EDC blade shape reccomendation

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pantagana23

Joined
Nov 10, 2012
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29
Hello everyone,

Been signed in this place for some time now, as most useful things about knives pop up on this forum.

Well now as search results help no more, time to post my first thread here.

Anyway, I am a mild knife enthusiast, as much as my budget can cover.

I was looking for an EDC to last me at least 10 years or so, well long story short, after 10k knife models, I come up to Recon 1 (grateful and sturdy lock for left handed).

Well at least until I saw Code 4. All the things that are too bulky on Recon 1, are fixed on Code 4. However, I am not sure of the durability of the 6061 Aluminium (I work in the shipping industry, better acquainted people know what aluminium plague is).

And there is the question of the blade shape...

Everyone says that clip or spear point should serve you better as an EDC (at least what I see in numerous reviews). My experience with tanto blade was excellent so far: when you open a box with a couple to tens of thousands of euros of electronic equipment inside, you sure as hell do not want to even scratch it. The joint between the longer and shorter edge of tanto blade has showed itself as a perfect for the job: it cuts through the duct tape, but does not dull the blade as with belly shaped blades. So really not sure which version to take.

Also, for the sharpening part, tanto on Code 4 is completely straight, so you always have the complete surface of the blade on the stone always, which is not the case with belly shaped blades, where you, theoretically speaking always have only one infinite part of the blade touching the sharpener (not sure if I got this sentence right, in my opinion, its like you have an ellipse, in which the radius is always expanding/decreasing, depending in which direction you are sharpening).

Not to prolong this too much, please give me Your thoughts on why tanto over clip point, and vice versa, and Your opinion on 6061 aluminium.

Thanks in advance!
 
I think the aluminum would hold up fine. As far as the blade shape goes, do what works for you. If your really like the tanto, maybe consider one of benchmades offerings. There's the presidio, axis stryker(s), and griptilians in manny flavors. :)

Cheers,
 
The shape makes little difference, if you have skill enough, you can do just about anything (within reason) with any knife. Buy something that appeals to you, and that has a good warranty, and good materials.
 
The aluminum should be fine. Honestly, if you want the optimal blade shape for opening a box without damaging anything inside, I'd recommend a sheepsfoot (or some modification thereof) blade. Great cutting geometry for slicing tape and no pronounced point to mess with anything sensitive inside the box.
 
pantagana23 said:
Everyone says that clip or spear point should serve you better as an EDC (at least what I see in numerous reviews). My experience with tanto blade was excellent so far: when you open a box with a couple to tens of thousands of euros of electronic equipment inside, you sure as hell do not want to even scratch it. The joint between the longer and shorter edge of tanto blade has showed itself as a perfect for the job: it cuts through the duct tape, but does not dull the blade as with belly shaped blades. So really not sure which version to take.

Also, for the sharpening part, tanto on Code 4 is completely straight, so you always have the complete surface of the blade on the stone always, which is not the case with belly shaped blades, where you, theoretically speaking always have only one infinite part of the blade touching the sharpener (not sure if I got this sentence right, in my opinion, its like you have an ellipse, in which the radius is always expanding/decreasing, depending in which direction you are sharpening).
Click to expand...

Welcome. First off, as others have said, get and use the shape you like. I don't like tantos, but they are nice box cutters. :thumbup:

That said, that joint on the tanto will dull just as fast as a curved belly, if the same steels are being considered. I would argue that it will dull even faster, since the same part of the blade is being used over and over.

As far as sharpening, that joint will get rounded off unless you are careful. A curved belly has no "joint" to round off..it is already rounded off. Don't have to be as careful...hence easier to sharpen. These traditional blade shapes have been around so long for a reason.
 
pantagana23 said:
Hello everyone,

Been signed in this place for some time now, as most useful things about knives pop up on this forum.

Well now as search results help no more, time to post my first thread here.

Anyway, I am a mild knife enthusiast, as much as my budget can cover.

I was looking for an EDC to last me at least 10 years or so, well long story short, after 10k knife models, I come up to Recon 1 (grateful and sturdy lock for left handed).

Well at least until I saw Code 4. All the things that are too bulky on Recon 1, are fixed on Code 4. However, I am not sure of the durability of the 6061 Aluminium (I work in the shipping industry, better acquainted people know what aluminium plague is).

And there is the question of the blade shape...

Everyone says that clip or spear point should serve you better as an EDC (at least what I see in numerous reviews). My experience with tanto blade was excellent so far: when you open a box with a couple to tens of thousands of euros of electronic equipment inside, you sure as hell do not want to even scratch it. The joint between the longer and shorter edge of tanto blade has showed itself as a perfect for the job: it cuts through the duct tape, but does not dull the blade as with belly shaped blades. So really not sure which version to take.

Also, for the sharpening part, tanto on Code 4 is completely straight, so you always have the complete surface of the blade on the stone always, which is not the case with belly shaped blades, where you, theoretically speaking always have only one infinite part of the blade touching the sharpener (not sure if I got this sentence right, in my opinion, its like you have an ellipse, in which the radius is always expanding/decreasing, depending in which direction you are sharpening).

Not to prolong this too much, please give me Your thoughts on why tanto over clip point, and vice versa, and Your opinion on 6061 aluminium.

Thanks in advance!
Click to expand...

I can't speak for the tanto, but I can tell you that IMO a reverse tanto is one of the most useful EDC blade shapes I own.
 
Interesting point of view regarding reverse tanto (sheepfoot alike).

Spyderco Salt 1 would be a good option there due to its blade shape, rust resistance and leftie friendly lock (linerlocks really get me frustrated being left handed), however, it looks like it could only take light duty, as it only has FRN handle, without any reinforcement.

Any other options besides Salt 1 with similar qualities?


P.S. I must admit I was 99% sure what I would take at the beginning of this thread, now You're just messing with me :D
 
There's also the benchmade contego, rift, and 940, they all use a reveres tanto. :thumbup: :D
 
If your worried about blade shape tailored for the job, which I personally wouldn't for most case I would just pick up a Stockman. Buck, GEC, CASE, QUEEN, etc all make some pretty good Stockman pattern knives. There's nothing like having 3 options at your disposal if that's what your worried about, it's a very practical knife, in fact a lot of traditional slipjoints are and it seems like the multibladed slipjoints may fit your needs quite well. If you want a single blade option a Sodbuster pattern looks like a good option to EDC, I know I've had one on my list of knives to get for awhile now.

My personal favorite is the Canoe pattern, spear point and pen blade combo. After that it's a good ol fashion Pen Knife and lastly a tie for third with a Copperhead and Trapper. Only reason why the Stockman isn't on my list is because all the ones I handled so far were too wide for my tastes.

And lastly I agree with everything that RevDevil said, buy the knife that interests you that is good quality. You can do a lot with a knife if you understand how to use it. I have no issue using about any style of knife, there are only a few blade styles I personally avoid out of preference such as tanto's and anything with serrations. I can still use those style of knives to their fullest but I just don't like to for one reason or another. But there are other people who will swear that those things are the best things to have on a knife.
 
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Stockman is hard to beat. I also like modified drop point with swedge, strong tips, think ZT 561 or Kershaw Rake or Spydy PM 2. All have a great blade shape for hard use, I only wish they had secondary bldes like my Browning Stockman has
 
I'd love to see a traditional knife, made entirely out of H1 steel (liners, springs, everything. Slap some nice covers on it and done. Of course, one of those blades should have at least some smaller Spyderco style serrations.
 
Hi guys, a late update...
While I was thinking about the perfect EDC, my wife bought me a yellow Salt 1.
Found it to be a great companion. Took it for a few dives with me, no rust whatsoever.
Edge retentention not so great, but a few swipes on the bottom of a plate every month or so, and good as new 😄
Think I'm going to stick around with this one for a while.
 
9blades said:
Benchmade 940, they all use a reverse tanto. :thumbup: :D
Click to expand...

That right there.

But I just saw that this was an update... check out the salt 1 fully serrated if it isnt too late. From reviews it seems to hold an edge a bit better due to the steel being work hardening in nature. Iirc it is a higher hrc due to the peocess of grinding the serrations.
If I am wrong, please someone correct me.

Also, the bottom of a mug or the top of a car window can work in a pinch if you dont have a plate available.
 
When I was checking multiple sources, to see what's up with that "work hardening", I found, and correct me if I'm wrong, that work hardening does not mean it will get sharper as You use it more. The work hardening describes the process of making the blade, as in making steel harder with physical force (probably with plastic deformation of the grid). The steel is compared to the steels used for barrels of chemicals. Anyone more involved in this is welcome to put in a word or two
 
Well, I may have been misunderstood. I meant that the grinding of the serrations is what causes the work hardening. The fact that it is ground after it has been shaped is what would add to the hrc, afaik. Generally speaking, normal usage doesn't generate enough heat to work harden a steel.

That being said, I would think that they would grind the serrations prior to HT to make it easier, then touch them up. But that is just my uneducated opinion.
 
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