New Member (stupid questions...)

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Oct 11, 2019
Messages
38
Hey Everyone....

My name is Jonathan.
I live in the Shenandoah Valley in VA.
Ive been a craftsman and builder for over 30 years.....and I just got into knifemaking.

One of my younger lead guys got into it and was making his start using less than ideal tools in my shop.
I didn’t even bother messing around till I bought some decent gear and supplies.

Having a lot of fun.
(Kind of addicted.
I’ve been blowing off work to hang in my shop and learn to grind.....)


So......
I’ve made two complete knives.
One...I rushed through because I wanted it for a specific purpose (gutting deer for archery season), and I knew going through all the steps would give me a lot of understanding.
Second one....a better attempt ...a bit less rushed. (I’m an impatient guy by nature.)

First newb question....
I built a MAP gas forge.
Bought a heavy duty torch for it.
And started to heat treat.

I’m having an issue keeping my blanks evenly heated.
(Just did three kitchen knives a few hours ago.)
I get non-magnetic in any specific area that I want, but am not able to keep an entire blank at the correct “color” right up to quench.

Not sure why...

I’m also not sure if I’m achieving proper hardness.

I’ve tried the file test.
I can’t tell exactly by that method.

I’ve sharpened a couple and they seem fine...but I haven’t used them enough to tell.

Knowing me...I’m going to order a couple propane Venturi burners and upgrade the forge to two burners.....
But it seems like people use the type of forge I made all the time with good results.

Any clue what I’m doing wrong?
(Maybe I’m overthinking it and everything is fine, but I would like more certainty in the process.)

((Also....if anyone could guide me through posting pics from my iPhone, I would greatly appreciate it. ))

Thanks in advance for any advice.
Regards,

Jonathan
 
Hey Everyone....

My name is Jonathan.
I live in the Shenandoah Valley in VA.
Ive been a craftsman and builder for over 30 years.....and I just got into knifemaking.

One of my younger lead guys got into it and was making his start using less than ideal tools in my shop.
I didn’t even bother messing around till I bought some decent gear and supplies.

Having a lot of fun.
(Kind of addicted.
I’ve been blowing off work to hang in my shop and learn to grind.....)


So......
I’ve made two complete knives.
One...I rushed through because I wanted it for a specific purpose (gutting deer for archery season), and I knew going through all the steps would give me a lot of understanding.
Second one....a better attempt ...a bit less rushed. (I’m an impatient guy by nature.)

First newb question....
I built a MAP gas forge.
Bought a heavy duty torch for it.
And started to heat treat.

I’m having an issue keeping my blanks evenly heated.
(Just did three kitchen knives a few hours ago.)
I get non-magnetic in any specific area that I want, but am not able to keep an entire blank at the correct “color” right up to quench.

Not sure why...

I’m also not sure if I’m achieving proper hardness.

I’ve tried the file test.
I can’t tell exactly by that method.

I’ve sharpened a couple and they seem fine...but I haven’t used them enough to tell.

Knowing me...I’m going to order a couple propane Venturi burners and upgrade the forge to two burners.....
But it seems like people use the type of forge I made all the time with good results.

Any clue what I’m doing wrong?
(Maybe I’m overthinking it and everything is fine, but I would like more certainty in the process.)

((Also....if anyone could guide me through posting pics from my iPhone, I would greatly appreciate it. ))

Thanks in advance for any advice.
Regards,

Jonathan
 
Welcome to Shop talk.
Photos will help a lot

Just a heads up, but there is a hammer-in at The Frontier Culture Museum on Saturday November 2nd. It is right outside Staunton.
Demos, tailgating, lots of used equipment for sale, great guys to meet, etc. I won't be able to make it, but there will be a bunch of knifemakers as well as blacksmiths there.
 
Hi Jonathan,
Welcome to the forum.
The key to an even color is to move the blade in and out of the forge. It helps to have a slot or opening at the back of the forge.
It’s difficult with kitchen blades because they’re thin and heat and cool quickly. You also want to avoid overheating the tip.

I would (and have myself) buy a burner from Atlas Knife and Tool. His burners are inexpensive and work great.
Email them with questions related to your forge size.
As far as posting pics, I’ve found the easiest way to do it is to buy a membership to the forum and it gives you the option when you post.
A lot of people use imgur as well for free photo posting.
Good luck and keep asking questions!
 
How did you build your forge? Type of refractory, insulation and coatings (or lack thereof) can make a big difference in how well your forge holds heat and transfers it into your steel
 
welcome to the forum. remember that the critical temp is about 100 degrees past non magnetic. get the blank up to non magnetic, note its color, then get the blank one shade brighter red before quenching.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top