New model, first with jigged bone

[jonnymac44]

Here is a new model, my Mini Spear Point, coming in at just about 7 inches overall length. .145" thick CPM 154 with mahogany corncob jigged bone scales with thick yellow G-10 liners.

I definitely want to start using more bone. It's a bit pricier than synthetics, but has a real classic look to it.
This one still needs a sheath so the final edge hasn't been put on yet. I think I also need to do a bit of contour sanding on the finger guard, it looks a bit too flat and maybe the corners seem too sharp. What do you guys think?

Thanks for lookin'!

 

[lonepine]

Here is a new model, my Mini Spear Point, coming in at just about 7 inches overall length. .145" thick CPM 154 with mahogany corncob jigged bone scales with thick yellow G-10 liners.

I definitely want to start using more bone. It's a bit pricier than synthetics, but has a real classic look to it.
This one still needs a sheath so the final edge hasn't been put on yet. I think I also need to do a bit of contour sanding on the finger guard, it looks a bit too flat and maybe the corners seem too sharp. What do you guys think?

I really like the stuff you make. I don't SEE a problem with the finger guard. Maybe you FEEL a problem when you hold it??? It's just me but I would like to see the handle a little shinier than it is.

- Paul Meske, Wisconsin

 

[Peregrin]

Wow I really like that! That modified Wharncliffe blade shape is fast becoming my favorite. Outstanding job on that little knife!

 

[Darrin Sanders]

Very nice. Classy look but still durable enough for EDC. Well done.

 

[tito]

Holy crap dude! That's flippin' awesome...flared rivets were a great choice with the liners! Your grind lines are amazing, it's like you've been doing this for years. Congrats.

This isn't a negative feedback, but only because you mentioned sharp corners: you can get a fine Scotchbrite wheel to knock the edges off wherever you like. I used to use a dremel, but the wheel is much easier to control and blend in, and much faster. A 6" harbor freight buffer is less than $40 I think, if you get it on sale - no need to buy a Baldor for this task unless you find a really awesome deal on one. Enco sells the wheels, and you will find many uses for them. Just something to consider, there might be better ways if you ask around, but this is the best thing I've found so far.

v/r, coty

 

[jonnymac44]

Thanks for the comments guys.

Coty, I apprceciate it brother!! That's not a bad idea about the scotchbrite wheels and the cheap HF buffer. I could have that up and running in no time!

Talk to you soon!

Holy crap dude! That's flippin' awesome...flared rivets were a great choice with the liners! Your grind lines are amazing, it's like you've been doing this for years. Congrats.

This isn't a negative feedback, but only because you mentioned sharp corners: you can get a fine Scotchbrite wheel to knock the edges off wherever you like. I used to use a dremel, but the wheel is much easier to control and blend in, and much faster. A 6" harbor freight buffer is less than $40 I think, if you get it on sale - no need to buy a Baldor for this task unless you find a really awesome deal on one. Enco sells the wheels, and you will find many uses for them. Just something to consider, there might be better ways if you ask around, but this is the best thing I've found so far.

v/r, coty

 

[Tiiiiiiiim]

Hey, I like that. I remember someone saying "the only sharp part of a knife should be the edge".

 

[jonnymac44]

Hey, I like that. I remember someone saying "the only sharp part of a knife should be the edge".

LOL, that sounds about right Tim. I cut some thin strips of sandpaper and have been using a shoe shine movement to burnish those sharp edges on the guard. It's looking much better.