New mora giving me trouble...

nelsonmc

nelsonmc

Joined
Jan 14, 2005
Messages
1,225
I've looked around, done some searches and maybe I'm missing something so I'll go ahead and ask here. Just got a Frosts Mora S-1 (the one with the laminated blade and red handle). It came quite dull, barely cuts paper let alone wood. So I'm sharpening away and away and it doesn't seem to be helping. First I tried Crock Sticks, then various stones I have, even tried a sharpening steel. It's cutting paper a bit easier now, but still nowhere near as sharp as I want it. Anybody got some tips on sharpening this? I know it's real hard steel but damn, it just won't succomb! :mad:

Update: So yeah, I got it sharpened up nice. I found the info at the Frosts website. Diamond sharpener did the trick for sure. Sorry bout this post :footinmou
 
Try bench stones. Use a good quality carborundum such as the ones from Norton to create a totally flat bevel: lay the blade flat on the stone and work away on both sides until you have created a burr (no secondary bevel). Then use a finer stone such as a black Arkansas or a fine diamond hone. Remove the burr by lifting the blade a fractiuon of a degree and stroking lightly forward or by stropping and you will have an edge you won't believe. Those laminated blades are fantastic. It is also a good idea to remove the blade by tapping it out from the butt with a punch and filling the handle with a good epoxy. That will prevent moisture from infiltrating and rusting the tang. The little Mora blades are one of the best bangs for the buck you'll find IMHO.

PS Although I use DMT diamond hones for 90% of my sharpening, I have found that a natural stone such as a black Arkansas creates the best edge on carbon steels.
 
Alberta Ed said:
Try bench stones. Use a good quality carborundum such as the ones from Norton to create a totally flat bevel: lay the blade flat on the stone and work away on both sides until you have created a burr (no secondary bevel). Then use a finer stone such as a black Arkansas or a fine diamond hone. Remove the burr by lifting the blade a fractiuon of a degree and stroking lightly forward or by stropping and you will have an edge you won't believe. Those laminated blades are fantastic. It is also a good idea to remove the blade by tapping it out from the butt with a punch and filling the handle with a good epoxy. That will prevent moisture from infiltrating and rusting the tang. The little Mora blades are one of the best bangs for the buck you'll find IMHO.

PS Although I use DMT diamond hones for 90% of my sharpening, I have found that a natural stone such as a black Arkansas creates the best edge on carbon steels.
Click to expand...

Thanks a lot guys! I finally got my Crock Sticks to work, I like them best for some reason, probably because my dad just handed them down to me and we haven't always had the best of relationships but lately it's great. Thanks for the epoxy idea, I'm going to run out in the morning and get some. I really like this knife, it's my first Mora and for the price I'm amazed! I would really like a better sheath though, this plastic thing is awful. I think I'm going to make a leather sheath for it and use this plastic as the liner.

Oh and I forgot but I figured out that the regular directions for these Crock Sticks are worthless. They say hold the blade 90 degrees to the sticks, well with this big flat bevel thats worthless. So I went nice and slow and matched the flat bevel and it worked out great. I used a medium stone first, similar to Nortons but pretty much a no name one.

I'm just really happy with this knife, once I finish my sheath it's going to be my EDC.
 
I have had to re-learn sharpening since getting a couple of the scandinavian knives. The scandi bevel is just one bevel at quite a different angle than I am used to and not programmed into my sharpmaker. Now that I am accustomed to it, I prefer it to anything else. I use a natural hard Arkansas stone but I don't let the edge go too dull.
I've got a couple Errikson moras, $10-12 each but great steel and a real sweet edge. Just a little harder than the Frosts. But my runaway favorite is an H. Roselli hand-forged, high carbon, "carpenter's knife" with the curly birch handle and a nice leather sheath. In the last 4 days, I have whittled a whistle for my granddaughter, dressed 2 rabbits, trimmed and boned a leg of lamb, and scored 2-3 dozen chestnut hulls for roasting, cut some twine from haybales, and it will still scare the hair off my arm.
 
JW said:
I have had to re-learn sharpening since getting a couple of the scandinavian knives. The scandi bevel is just one bevel at quite a different angle than I am used to and not programmed into my sharpmaker. Now that I am accustomed to it, I prefer it to anything else. I use a natural hard Arkansas stone but I don't let the edge go too dull.
I've got a couple Errikson moras, $10-12 each but great steel and a real sweet edge. Just a little harder than the Frosts. But my runaway favorite is an H. Roselli hand-forged, high carbon, "carpenter's knife" with the curly birch handle and a nice leather sheath.
Click to expand...

I've heard about the Errikson Moras and I'd really like one or eight after having this Frosts one. I keep hearing about Arkansas stones, can you tell me the difference between those and say a Nortons?
 
Nortons are artificial whereas the Arkansas stones are natural and (mostly) come from a quarry in the southern US, I believe. You can get both in various grades. Either/both will do a fine job. Generally, Norton/carborundum are coarser than Arkansas stones and will cut faster. Soft Arkansas stones wear fairly quickly and cut fairly fast, but the harder 'black' Arkansas will last for generations if you don't drop them. 'Black' is generic -- some of the hard Arkansas stones are almost translucent. Check the sharpening FAQ here. The best all-around hones are diamond hones; I prefer DMT but haven't tried them all.

That's a good idea about making a leather sheath and using the plastic for a liner.
 
Alberta Ed said:
Nortons are artificial whereas the Arkansas stones are natural and (mostly) come from a quarry in the southern US, I believe. You can get both in various grades. Either/both will do a fine job. Generally, Norton/carborundum are coarser than Arkansas stones and will cut faster. Soft Arkansas stones wear fairly quickly and cut fairly fast, but the harder 'black' Arkansas will last for generations if you don't drop them. 'Black' is generic -- some of the hard Arkansas stones are almost translucent. Check the sharpening FAQ here. The best all-around hones are diamond hones; I prefer DMT but haven't tried them all.

That's a good idea about making a leather sheath and using the plastic for a liner.
Click to expand...

Thanks a lot Alberta Ed, I'm going to have to get me a real deal Arkansas stone. Uh oh, my 2005 shopping list is growing fast. I'll post a picture when I finish the sheath, first I have to get some leather from my dad, if he has any left. Where is a good place to get some leather online? I'll google it in a second but if anybody has experience with a certain seller please pass it on.

Also thanks for the FAQs klattman, I've seen that page before and forgot to bookmark it.
 
Yes, soft Arkansas will generate a slightly coarser, toothier edge, better for some purposes such as slicing soft materials (tomatoes, etc.). For a fine polished edge, if you're doing push cutting, finish with the hard Arkansas or a fine diamond hone. Stropping using a chromiumn oxide compound may help to get the ultimate edge.
 
nelsonmc said:
I'm just really happy with this knife, once I finish my sheath it's going to be my EDC.
Click to expand...

If you want to see a nice selection of similar knives to empty your wallet on, go to ragweedforge.com.

Ragnar is a good guy to deal with.

Bill
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top