New mountain bike? Any recommendations for do's and don'ts?

[Sid Post]

I have an old TREK non-suspension MTB that I converted over to a street pleasure ride (rough roads, sidewalks, paths, etc.) that can take a beating and shrug it off. I want to move up to a full suspension bicycle for off road. I don't see much sand and no snow in my future so, I've tried to rule out the "fat tire" bikes. I want really good durable components that will take a beating and not leave me stranded.

I live outside of Tucson, Arizona at the moment but, I'm in the process of moving out to Vail or Sonoita FWIW. I really want to try and stay with Shimano components, hydraulic/disc brakes in addition to the suspension requirement. I'm not a racer and I'm getting older so, no agressive ride positions (i.e. heavy weight on my shoulders from leaning forward).

From checking out a few local places, Fox suspension seems to be preferred by most. I don't know if there is a profit motive behind Fox but, the feedback seems to be an overall superior performance and plusher ride in the rough stuff.

The Diamondback Sortie 1 29ER seems to be a similar bicycle to the Giant equivalent but, it is also a lot cheaper. However, I really haven't found any descent or thorough reviews.

What recomendations do you have? Are there any particular dealers in Arizona I should checkout for good model selections or prices? Am I missing any good "on-line" options?

TIA,
Sid

 

[texas gun person]

I don't know diddly squat about mountain bikes. However, I like road bikes. One big thing to remember about bikes is you get what you pay for. Buy the best you can afford because it will be better than bikes below that price point. Most manufacturers are very close to one another as far as price points go to when it comes to comparable bikes across brands.

 

[Sid Post]

I don't know diddly squat about mountain bikes. However, I like road bikes. One big thing to remember about bikes is you get what you pay for. Buy the best you can afford because it will be better than bikes below that price point.

I hear you on that one. Putting a front shock on my current ride will cost almost as much as a complete bicycle with the same shock.

Most manufacturers are very close to one another as far as price points go to when it comes to comparable bikes across brands.

With road bikes, I generally agree. I did score a carbon fiber Schwinn with a huge discount that tipped me away from Fuji and similar makes with the same components. Full suspension mountain bikes main differences come in the rear suspension though, frame differences can affect the turn radius and crowd your feet with the front tire or cause the pedals to hit rocks or bottom out.

 

[Planterz]

Ordinary Bike Shop is probably the best in Tucson. They regularly win the Tucson Weekly's "Best in Tucson" each year. I stopped in once to pick up some gear, and got to talking with an employee about SPD vs egg beaters, and the guy just GAVE me a set of egg beaters to try out. He said to keep them if I liked them (I didn't - too much float), and bring them back if I didn't. I couldn't believe it. Everybody there was laid back and cool, more interested in helping you out than selling you something. Next bike I get will be from that shop.

 

[Sid Post]

Ordinary Bike Shop

THANKS! With the construction mess going on downtown, I've been avoiding that area if at all possible. I guess I need to reconsider that and brave the mess downtown ....

 

[smasak]

Try www.mtbr.com for reviews. Otherwise, it looks like you are in the market for a "trail" bike. In other words, 4.5 - 6 inches of travel at each end and around 30 lbs. i wouldnt confine yourself to only shimano components, Sram makes stuff just as good. I ride a Santa Cruz Heckler and they can be had for relatively cheap. mine was all Sram X-9 and fox suspension and it was $3,300 a couple years ago. you can check out the santa cruz website. Ive heard very good things about the Trek "Fuel" series also.

 

[maroast]

Theres no shortage of bike shops in Tucson...but don't forget to checkout the Performance bike retail stores in town (there are two that I know of).

If you do your research and have an idea of what you want, there are some really good deals to be had.

Oh, and if your on the west side of town, pistol hill to three bridges is a great trail... ~18-20mi out and back. I can't wait to get back out to Tucson!


And to add to what another poster said, don't exclude bikes that don't have shimano. I've been riding and racing MTB, road, and cyclocross for ~17 years now and my MTB is full SRAM with avid hydro discs.... It's just as good if not better than shimano. In fact, I will NEVER ride a shimano chain on my MTB again... I've broken countless... But have only broken ~2 SRAM chains. That's my experience, ymmv.

 

[The Logical One]

It all depends on what your budget is. The best advice I can give you is... if your budget is no more than $1300, stay away from full suspension bikes. I can guarantee you that any full suspension bike you can get for under $1000 is going to be a piece of crap. However, for $1000 you can get a pretty decent hardtail.

Another thing I would like to point out is that most newbie mountain bikers (or any bikes) want the widest, most comfortable saddle that is the size of a pillow. That's a huge mistake. You want a narrower saddle combined with a good pair of riding shorts with chamois.

Finally.... stay away from clipless pedals unless you're an experienced rider.

 

[Mr.Belmont]

wow, this just happens to be my speciality haha, I ride Downhill/free ride and Park.. So first and for most what is your budget? And trust me when I say this when it comes to bikes you get what you pay for. I ride a 2011 specialized demo which I spent almost 5gs on and it is a beaut. If you dont mind we can chat through email and I can suggest the best thing for you and where to get it. ALSO a big thing alot of bike shops wont tell you is the pros and cons to each bike and what frame size you need.

 

[fast14riot]

Budget first, then think about how serious you are about riding. Are you goingto be the occasional weekend warrior, or are you going to spend a couple days a week riding hard. I managed a couple of bike shops over the years, I ride every day and I was a master mechanic.

Dollars to dollars, you will get a better equipped hard tail bike than a full suspension. Don't plan on buying cheap and upgrading later, that is almost 2x more expensive than buying better from the start. Bike companies get serious discounts on componants when offering them on their bikes, you can never get that discount buying piece by piece.

Figure out what shifters you like, not just what brand. There are differences between each line within a brand. Hydraulic brakes are wonderful, but be prepared for the possible consequences. If damaged on the trail, you have no brake. Mechanical brakes, you can drop a new cable in and get home. Also, ask your local shop if they have mechanics who are experianced with hydraulic brakes, many "mechanics" get stuck in the basic repair mode and don't keep up on stuff like that, or they never had the training to begin with. I've always been a fan of Magura brakes myself. For suspension, I'm a Marzocchi fan, but Fox has been my favorite for rear suspension. I also prefer coil over rear shocks. I don't require lock out, but figure out if its something you need. Tires, I like a wider tire than most, I ride 2.4" when most people ride 2.1", but I also turn much more aggresively than most. It also allows me to run lower pressures.

When test riding bikes, don't be afraid to ask for different length stems to get the perfect fit. You can guess all you want, but its better to know for sure. I also like narrower bars, wide has become a new fad, up to 29" wide bars!

26" wheels turn quicker, respond to twisty trails faster, and I feel climb better. 29" wheels ride longer distances a little better, respond slower, smooth out high frequency feedback a bit better.


figure out where, how often, and how far you are going to ride and that will help narrow down your search.


-Xander

 

[Sid Post]

It all depends on what your budget is. The best advice I can give you is... if your budget is no more than $1300, stay away from full suspension bikes. I can guarantee you that any full suspension bike you can get for under $1000 is going to be a piece of crap. However, for $1000 you can get a pretty decent hardtail.

Another thing I would like to point out is that most newbie mountain bikers (or any bikes) want the widest, most comfortable saddle that is the size of a pillow. That's a huge mistake. You want a narrower saddle combined with a good pair of riding shorts with chamois.

Finally.... stay away from clipless pedals unless you're an experienced rider.

My budget is considerably North of $1K. I don't want a bunch of subpar components that won't last very long so, I recognize the price of admission.

I use a wide saddle for lazy rides on sidewalks and such but, realize the merits of a "real" saddle on a road or MTB.

I'll most likely start with toe cages. I still have mixed feelings with the clip/shoe options. I can always swap them out later if find a toe cage no longer works for me.

 

[Sid Post]

Budget first, then think about how serious you are about riding. Are you going to be the occasional weekend warrior, or are you going to spend a couple days a week riding hard. I managed a couple of bike shops over the years, I ride every day and I was a master mechanic.

In the past I have ridden pretty hard on the weekends. 34 miles (urban Dallas) in a single ride was my limit on the old MTB. There isn't enough daylight to ride everyday right now but, I would ride at least once a weekend now and 3 times a week when I have sunlight after work. In the past I hiked 9 miles a day off road in light sand and gravel in 2 hours and 15 minutes with a ~65# backpack daily. These days I need something easier on my knees and hips. On holiday weekends long hikes with extreme altitude changes were not uncommon.

I'm not runner and need to work on something other than huge calves. I won't do a gym (never could - just too boring) and need to keep my heart rate up and build my lung capacity so, I see a lot of miles on bicycles in my future.

This would also encourage me to travel to Moab, Prescott, and other places to ride. That helps me focus my long weekends on new areas and new pursuits.

Dollars to dollars, you will get a better equipped hard tail bike than a full suspension. Don't plan on buying cheap and upgrading later, that is almost 2x more expensive than buying better from the start. Bike companies get serious discounts on componants when offering them on their bikes, you can never get that discount buying piece by piece.

That's why I'm asking the question, saving my pennies, and plan on spending good money to get a great bicycle the first time. I've already priced out a front shock for my first ride.

When test riding bikes, don't be afraid to ask for different length stems to get the perfect fit. You can guess all you want, but its better to know for sure. I also like narrower bars, wide has become a new fad, up to 29" wide bars!

I'm not overly tall so, really wide bars are a no-go for me too. I've already been down this road with my motorcycles.

26" wheels turn quicker, respond to twisty trails faster, and I feel climb better. 29" wheels ride longer distances a little better, respond slower, smooth out high frequency feedback a bit better.

I'm hoping the 29's smooth out the wash board roads personally. I have experience with larger tires on my pickup and motorcycles so, I have some understanding of the higher inertia and slower responses with larger heavier tires.

 

[tomsch]

I've had a Trek EX8 for a couple years now and it has been a great bike with very little adjustments needed. It's taken a ton of abuse and still has not needed any part replacements. It is a little less than 30lbs, 5.5" of travel and very solid handling with a nice balance for downhill as well as climbs.

 

[FlaMtnBkr]

I used to live and breath mountain bikes and managed a few shops as well as a decent mechanic. After having other people work on my bikes before a race and then having problems I figured learning to work on them was the best way to have a bike that worked flawlessly. Plus I could make minor adjustments while riding if something happened to my shifting or braking. I double flatted on a downhill in a cross country race and was able to fix both because I had the right tools and was used to changing flats and still got second place. Unfortunately, about 10 years ago I got sick and have 3 blood diseases which don't allow me to do much more than a couple mile ride on a side walk, and that's when I'm doing good.

Since I have been out of the scene for so long I don't know what is even out there anymore. But I would find a shop that will take the time to properly fit you on a bike so you know the best size for you. Also, when buying from a bike shop you can sometimes trade in your stem and handle bar for something that is shorter and with a higher rise so you don't put as much weight on your arms and upper body. But you might be able to go even cheaper by buying the parts yourself online and putting them on. Changing a stem and handlebar isn't too hard. Having the right seat height is also important for your knees and efficiency. Most people want to run it too low but you really want it high enough that your legs are almost extended on the down stroke, but not lock your knee completely straight. You don't want it so high that your hips rock up and down as you pedal. Only your legs should be moving. If you are planning on downhill or "free riding" and doing some crazy things then a lower seat height is OK.

I also found toe clips to be harder to ride because you have to pull your foot back to get out. Clipless you just turn your heel out which is a much more natural movement when trying to get your foot down quickly. They do have a learning curve and you will fall. But once you get used to them they are great. They allow you to also pull up and eventually you want to learn to pedal circles and not squares. That will probably only make since once you start riding with them. I always liked shimano clipless with about 5 degrees of float. Enough to save your knees yet quick to get out of. They always felt the best to me but I'm sure they have some other good brands these days. The problem I found is most of the non shimano had too much float (closer to 9 deg) and my legs/ knees just didn't like to turn that far in a hurry. Since I'm talking about Shimano pedals, I also was a fan of Shimano components. I liked the trigger (rapid fire?) shifters and back then they were the only ones with that type which may not be the case anymore. For what you want (I think) I don't see the need with going better than XT. XT shifters and rear derailleur used to be a nice upgrade and LX would work just as well for everything else, just a little heavier. Parts kept getting better so lower models probably work better than the XT did back then.

I don't know what kind of riding you will be doing but if it were me I would look more at the cross country style bike. They can have enough travel to be comfortable, but are usually lighter because they don't need to have as beefy parts. I liked bikes with about 3"- 4" of travel in the rear as they seemed to be faster and more efficient, yet comfortable and enough to help from getting beat up and saves your back some. Usually you try to match the front to the rear with maybe an inch less travel. However, they may have bikes now that have more travel and just as efficient. If you plan on riding terrain where there is much climbing, weight is a pretty big deal. I would say 30 lbs max and more around 27 lbs if you can find it. Really makes riding nicer if it will be a go anywhere bike. At least that is how things used to be. Fox were the good shocks back then and it sounds like they still are. Being able to adjust the compression and dampening was nice, as well as a lock out, but that is a top of the line shock. If you don't think you would mess with those adjustments then any FOX shock should work good and be durable. A nice saddle is good and you don't want a huge one with a lot of padding. I found that if you aren't used to riding, that no matter what your butt will hurt for about a month with riding a couple days a week. But after that month your butt gets used to it and stops hurting. Basically it can be narrow in the front, you just want it wide enough in the rear that your sit bones are supported. If they are supported then even a cheaper seat will work well once adjusted right. You want the front tilted high enough that you don't feel like you are sliding off the front the whole time but not so high that you start cramping that area. If you start to get some numbness in that region after a short time, something needs to be changed. Other than that you don't need titanium rails or a high end saddle which usually jack the price up. When buying new from a bike shop is a good time to switch out some parts if you see something you think you want as long as they are a good shop and will give you a good price and will knock some off the price trading in the new, unwanted parts. Ideally though, it will come with decent enough stuff you don't need to do any of that unless it has you bent over too far to be comfortable, then a different stem or riser bar will help. If someone was serious about a bike but on the line because they felt too bent over, I would take the time to switch out a part for them to try. Usually it was worth it because it led to a sale of a bike and a part. Hopefully you can find a shop that is accommodating like that.

I'm really rambling and I wish I had some models to suggest. Hopefully something I have said is of some benefit. If you check out the big brands like Specialized and Trek you will get a nice bike. You just have to find something that fits your price and ride as many different models as you can in that price range. $1500 should get you a really nice full suspension bike, or it did. Try multiple shops so you can try more brands. Normally just taking a test ride you will find a bike that just seems to fit and feels good to ride. Any good shop should let you take a bike out for a parking lot ride to get the feel of it. Once you find what you like, tell us about it. Don't let them pressure you into buying something on the spot and ride as many as you can. I found once I found one that I liked, it was always good to come back another day and ride it again and make sure it still feels good and I wasn't just getting caught up in the moment. When you do buy one make sure it comes with at least one free tune up and take it in and have it done. Cables stretch and they all need a little tweak after a month or two. Also, ask which employee is a big rider and have them help set it up for you. Seat height and angle makes a difference as does cleat placement if you decide to go clipless. A short, higher rise stem can also really help as well as a riser bar. They should be able to help you with all that. If not ask here and someone can tell you the rules of thumb.

Again, sorry for the long rambling post that doesn't have much real info. Hopefully I didn't assume wrong that you are looking more for a cross country bike. Good luck with whatever you choose.

 

[Noctis3880]

I'm a bit curious about this topic as well. Do they make any bikes with 100% rust-proof components? I figure an aluminum frame and perhaps titanium chains would do it, but not too sure on the suspension and gears.

 

[The Logical One]

I'm a bit curious about this topic as well. Do they make any bikes with 100% rust-proof components? I figure an aluminum frame and perhaps titanium chains would do it, but not too sure on the suspension and gears.

The bolts, cassette, chain, and possibly the crank will rust if you leave the bike outside. So.... don't leave the bike sitting outside and you'll be fine.

 

[stinkyspice]

check out kona stinky bikes by far the best feeling bike i have ridden. i used to ride downhill alot an that was my best bike by far!! took a beating as well!! have some awesome trails in maui!!

 

[GentlemanlySteve]

I personaly am a Huge fan of GT's line of "all mountain" full suspensions Called the "Force" line. I'm a big dude (6'2", 260lbs) and have found the IDRIVE suspension system of GT's to be incredible. Very smooth ride. There are 3 variants of this model depending on how much you can spend. but all have hydrollic disc brakes and Fox or Rock Shox. The weight is very good when compared to similar products. I also worked in a bike shop for a while. In my experience you'll get more bike for your money if you get GT. Trek, Specialized, etc are excellent bikes but you'll undoubtedly pay much more for a comparable bike due to name/and advertising. And GT,s warranty and CS is awesome. I personally wont ride anything else. My .02 thanks

 

[Sid Post]

IFox were the good shocks back then and it sounds like they still are. Being able to adjust the compression and dampening was nice, as well as a lock out, but that is a top of the line shock. If you don't think you would mess with those adjustments then any FOX shock should work good and be durable.

I got away from the Japanene Enduro and Dual-Sports because of inferior suspension. I'm willing to pay for good shocks today.

 

[jstrykr74]

Give Felt a look. While they have been known for road bikes, they make great MTN bikes. I have one of their mid range (Nine Elite) and a lower end (Q620) bikes and love them both. Both seem to be a lot of bike for the money. They, like GT, don't spend a lot of money on advertising.