New one "finished." Handle-layout lesson learned!

chainring

chainring

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Jul 20, 2008
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Here's one I just "finished." My cousin (made a lovely leather sheath for my first knife and wanted to be paid with a knife instead of cash :) ) requested a slimmed profile (edge to spine) EDC-style knife with wood handles and the edge taken all the way to the choil, so this is what materialized. I've never taken the edge all the way to the finger like this, and I layed out the handle wrong. It's too far forward! The ironwood was in the way of sharpening. So, I had to make the handle come down to paper thin to be clear of future sharpenings, and my scandi didn't turn out symmetrical since I was being traumatized watching all my ironwood grind away! :o

So, this one is just going to be a prototype for him to use for a while and then tell me what he wants changed.

Other than having terminal problems, it turned out OK! This is my....6th knife? Something like that. The steep learning curve continues!

Specs: 1/8 thick 01 tool steel, HT to 56-58, Ironwood and black micarta pins, bleach/blue etch, scandi edge, just over 3 inches of edge, 7 3/8 overall.

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That looks like a great user, kinda fiddleback-ish. No worries, I made way bigger mistakes on my 6th knife, I'd say your doing fine!
 
Nice looking knife - its a lot easier to sharpen when you carry the bevel down the full length of the blade. Where you ended the handle is a visually "dicey" area - + or - 1/16" is a big deal. The ironwood with black micarta pins and pin placement look great.
 
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Thanks, guys. "Kinda Fiddleback-ish" is a HUGE compliment in my book! :) I'm a die-hard fan of Andy's knives, and I guess it shows.
 
As an aspiring knifemaker I wonder if you could answer one question? How do you get that pock marked black on a knife like that? I really like the look of it but I don't know how to make it happen. Any pointers from the experts?
 
I'm no expert, but I use the gunblue and bleach method, as described by Rick Marchand in the linked thread. :) It's very easy, and forgiving. I've had blanks in the bleach for as much as 2 hours, pulling them out and steel-wooling them about every 30 minutes to see how they look. I love the way it turns out. You basically don't have to worry about scratches on your blade. Once I finish the knife, I just re-blue everything except the scandi edge and then hit it very lightly with the finest steel wool. It's not Rick Marchand's stuff, but I'm pleased with it! :) Good luck, and post pics.

Don't forget to wear rubber gloves and a facemask of some quality, because the bleach/blueing fumes are nasty.
 
Here are 2 knives that I made with the blueing and bleach method. I think it was Birchwood Casey Super Blue that I use. It is a formula for hardened metals. Both of these knives have O1 blades. The top knife was soaked for 25 minutes in the bleach, and the second knife was soaked for 20 minutes. The second knife I did a little more rubbing with 0000 steel wool than the other.

Oh, and I did not apply any blueing after I steel wooled them.

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To me the handle is right on. It is thinned down to where it should be. Looks great.

Fred
 
I appreciate that, Fred and Tmaster. I've got 4 more like this one ground out into blank form, just need some time to get on 'em. I really like this design best out of the few that I've completed.
 
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