New para-military problems

UnixDork

UnixDork

Joined
Dec 2, 2001
Messages
453
My new paramilitary arrived today, and I like it quite a bit, but here's the deal. The blade has a bit of horizontal play, and the compression lock tab goes all the way to the other side when I wiggle the blade vertically to take up the slack in the lock. Also, the blade isn't centered when it's closed. Is this normal? I have four other Spyderco knives and none of them have this degree of slop, so I'm a little surprised. Should I send it back?

Here's pictures of the blade and the lock:

para1.jpg


para2.jpg
 
I'd try to adjust the pivot screw(s) and see if that corrects either or both problems. If it doesn't--send it back. Good luck. Spyderco will take care of it if you can't adjust it yourself.
 
Loosen the screws in the stop pin and rotate it,this fixed mine.
 
Thanks guys. After looking at it closer, I noticed that there is also a dent in the lock bar. This one is definitely going back. After doing a few searches on this model I see I'm not alone. What happened to quality control on this model?
 
If tightening the pivot doesn't get rid of the blade play, and make the lockbar lock up at the far left of the tang, send it back.[edit: sorry, we crossposted] Actually I wouldn't touch it, and would send it back to the dealer.
My Paramilitary came with the lockbar at the far left, and no visible gap between it and the handle slab when locked. After thousands of drop openings (it's a habit:)), it is barely 1/3 of the way across the tang.
Unfortunately the wear-in hasn't gotten rid of the vertical play like I'd hoped, but I suppose I'll just live with it. I sent my Manix in for vertical play almost a month ago, and haven't heard anything, or gotten my knife back, so good luck.
After all the lightweight Spydercos I've owned over the years, my newer ones are disappointing. I think it's sad that both of my U.S.-made Spydies that I paid $105 and $150 for have vertical blade play, after getting about a dozen $40-55 models made in Japan with no problems.

edit: forgot that I had, but traded, a S30V Native that had no problems.
 
u812,
Thank you for your fine advise. I have a Temperance Jr. that had the same problem w/ the bar going all the way over. I loosened the screws to the stop pin, rotated the pin, and re-tightened the screws. The lock was then back over to the middle where it was when I bought it a year ago.

Thanks, hope I didn't violate the warranty, but doing it yourself is a lot better than sending it in for warranty and repair. :barf:

bob7
 
My Yojimbo's lock goes allll the way to the other side. It's about 1mm from touching the opposite liner.

Also, the liner where the clip screws into is bent slightly so the last (farthest to the rear) screw doesn't even engage the liner.

It needs to go back... just when I find the time.

-j
 
bob7 said:
Thanks, hope I didn't violate the warranty, but doing it yourself is a lot better than sending it in for warranty and repair. :barf:
Click to expand...
I was starting to think the same thing, but I got my Manix back today. It was received in Golden on 11/21, and back here 12/17. That's not bad at all, especially considering the holidays. Lockup is better, and the action is much smoother.
 
biogon said:
My Yojimbo's lock goes allll the way to the other side. It's about 1mm from touching the opposite liner.

-j
Click to expand...

Mine had that, with a little vertical play, too. I sent it back and they did a very nice job of fixing it. :)
 
vertical play and compression lock tab going to far: can be fixed with the pivot screw...
blade not centered: not good :)
 
My para has the same problems, lock way to the right, blade play. What's the trick for rotating the stop pin? I have loosened, as well as removed both of its screws, loosened the pivot, and cannot move the stop pin at all. Any ideas? Thanks......

Steve
 
My Military's blade goes off center every now and then. I just tighten the screws back up on the stop pin and it's fixed. One of these days I'll put some blue locktite on them...
 
sorry to bump an old thread, but...
i just got a new one, and it feels pretty tight
1) if i loosen the pivot screw, will i most likely get the problems mentioned here?
2) is the pivot screw torx or something else? i have to buy a set to take the main handle screws apart and i want to know if i have to buy hex or whatever else to adjust the pivot.
 
cdl said:
is the pivot screw torx or something else? i have to buy a set to take the main handle screws apart and i want to know if i have to buy hex or whatever else to adjust the pivot.
Click to expand...

You'll need 2 torx sets (2 # 10s) to adjust the pivot.

Also, I too have found that rotating the stop pin will adjust the travel of the lock bar. I adjusted mine so that it hits the center. I'm able to adjust it within about 1mm from the left, so there's lots of room for wear.

As with the pivot, you need 2 torx wrenches (2 # 6s) to adjust the stop pin.

FWIW my Para blade is perfectly centered -- I could see if the pivot was too loose the lock bar might push it to the right.
 
biogon said:
My Yojimbo's lock goes allll the way to the other side. It's about 1mm from touching the opposite liner.

Also, the liner where the clip screws into is bent slightly so the last (farthest to the rear) screw doesn't even engage the liner.

It needs to go back... just when I find the time.

-j
Click to expand...

so was mine...unfortunately I modded mine, so the warranty's out...my para was perfect tho'. I gotta say that the Japanese models were perfect :D
 
i guess the pivot tension is at a pretty optimal setting already, because when i pinch the lock and move the blade, it's smooth.
i'm just not used to this type of lock. my last knife was a frame lock which didn't impede the smoothness of it while opening
 
I am been considering the Manix but after reading this I am a little worried about buying it.
 
redhawk44p said:
I am been considering the Manix but after reading this I am a little worried about buying it.
Click to expand...

I wouldn't worry. The Manix is a lockback and Spyderco has lots of experience making them. They've also gone through two versions of the similar Chinook and Chinook II, so I think there's a better chance that the bugs have been worked out. I have a Manix -- it's an outstanding design, and I haven't found any flaws in it at all. There is absolutely no blade play whatsoever.

By comparison, the compression lock, although impressive in many ways, is still evolving. But then I have no regrets buying the Paramilitary either.
 
Update:
I adjusted the eccentric pivot pins on both my rhino and leaf blade Temp. Jr.'s. You just have to unscrew the torx pivot pin, tap out the eccentric pivot pin on the other side, turn it a little bit, re-insert it, tighten it up, and then test it. Both knives are now officially tanks. Not a millimeter or a smidgen of movement. Keep in mind the rhino went back to Customer Service and still had movement when it returned. It's now perfect. Just have to find the right spot where the locking bar doesn't go too far over and the blade has no movement.

Also Lil' T owners, I dremeled and smoothed off the finger grooves on the knives. Now they're much more comfortable to handle in any grip position. With the finger grips/grooves the knives were very uncomfortable to hold in reverse edge in and forward edge up positions. Now, perfecto. Tanks. Indestructable tanks.

Off topic, the cutting edge is almost as long as the Manix.

bob7
Anybody want to volunteer to post pics of them?
 
I'm a little confused. Looking at the Spyderco Catalog, it says that the black blade Paramilitary is drilled for left side clip, but I have yet to see one. Are there any Paramilitarys drilled for the clip on the left side? (shiny or black, serrated or plain)

What other Spyderco knives are lefty friendly for opening and closing? I have a Native, Jester, Dodo, and a Calypso Jr.

thanks,
Overlord in Colorado
 
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