New PM2 - Some Issues; this common??

Joined
Feb 25, 2020
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Just got my first P2 (black coated blade, digicamo scales). 100% confirmed authentic NIB from authorized Spyderco dealer store. Lots to love about the knife but blade action was relatively stiff out of box; not Cold Steel triad-lock stiff, but not buttery smooth & not a "drop shut" blade swing after unlocking it. Figured that would just improve with some opening & closing. So I opened/closed about two dozen times and then... one of the rear T9 screws that holds the scales/liners on just fell out of the knife! Luckily I found it. These are very shallow screws. So I cleaned w/ rubbing alcohol the threads on all four of the T9 side screws and re-mounted them with blue Loctite applied. Found out you need to be checking when you re-mount the front two screws closest to the blade pivot because they affect the tension of the compression lock/action. I initially screwed them in tight, only to find the blade was MUCH stiffer to open/close. These are the little screws - NOT the middle blade pivot T10 screw. So backed them out just a tad and that brought it back to the factory level of tension/smoothness. It's a bit concerning to me that these screws weren't loctited at the factory, and that they use such shallow screws; there's barely any thread amount connecting with the female side. I'll see how they do now after letting the loctite set for 24 hours. Only other observation is that the G10 scales aren't rounded off at all so oddly enough my Spyderco Tenacious (a $60 knife made in China) has more comfortable scales/grip. That and the pocket clip position from the factory is upside down from most people's preference to carry tip up, and the clip is NOT a deep carry clip; already have a replacement on order from Lynch Northwest.
 
The US-made knives are not made like the Chinese models and not like the Japanese models. The edges of the handles are much less chamfered, and that is by design. It’s a bit of a love/hate thing amongst users.

A few years back, there was a bunch of drama about Spyderco using thread locker. It appears that they took it to heart and stopped using it. They cannot seem to win no matter which way they choose.

Some knives need more careful adjustment of the two screws closest to the pivot and the pivot itself than other knives require. Once you get to where you want it, leave it alone for a day or two to make sure the thread locker is fully dry.
 
Just keep using it and fidgeting with it. It will eventually break in. In my experience I’ve never had to loctite any body screws, only the pivot. You’ll be good to go from here on out.
 
Opening and closing ~two dozen times won’t scratch the threshold for “breaking in”.

It’s gonna take a couple hundred open/closes before a noticeable difference BEGINS to happen.
Just my experience.

How many licks does it take to reach the center of a Tootsie-Pop?
 
Opening and closing ~two dozen times won’t scratch the threshold for “breaking in”.

It’s gonna take a couple hundred open/closes before a noticeable difference BEGINS to happen.
Just my experience.

How many licks does it take to reach the center of a Tootsie-Pop?
gotcha. the more worrisome part was the screw falling out...
 
I posted a picture of my S90V/CF Para2 years ago, and someone pointed out that it had a screw missing. That was back when they were only using blue Loctite, before the red Loctite uproar. I had never taken it apart or loosened any of the screws, but that one fell out in normal use. W&R sent me a new set of screws for free, and yes, I used red Loctite when I put the new one in.
 
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