New poster- Puma White Hunter received today, 1st time Puma owner with initial review

coloradowildman

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Hi everyone, this is my first real post here and I'm glad to see there is a place for folks who dig knives to congregate and share info.

Being as I live in the Colorado Rockies and backpack year round I wanted a wilderness\survival knife that would be a once in a life time purchase. There is always tons of precipitation and\or snow in the high country so it had to be stainless for me, as I don't feel like carrying vegetable or olive oil in my pack just to keep the blade from rusting (gun oil works well to protect a non-stainless blade if also carrying a gun but it tastes aweful if the blade is used to cut food with). I know the old mountain men here carried carbon steel knives but I think if they had the choice they would have chosen a high quality stainless blade to use in the often very wet and snowy Rocky Mountains:)

In a drier environment I probably would have gone for a Ka Bar Becker BK2, Cold Steel SRK or Ontario's Rat 7, as they seem like great all around high quality wilderness knives but are made of non-stainless rustable steel. The Buck 119 is an American classic, tough and built with a 6" stainless blade, but sadly isn't drilled for a lanyard, has a slippery handle, and comes with a cheapy foreign made cordura sheath nowadays (they used to made a nice leather sheath for it). Same thing with the Buck Nighthawk, well built but no lanyard hole and cheapie sheath (what was Buck thinking!?).

The US made Gerber Prodigy and LMF II are stainless and were close in the features and quality I was looking for (torture tested in Iraq and Afghanistan by many soldiers who carried them and by the knife destroyer on Youtube) but I really prefer a 5 to 6 inch blade (not too long and not to short) for all around wilderness use and if possible, prefer a traditional looking knife so as not to attract unwanted attention from overzealous backpacking Boulder-ites (local joke lol) and Barney Fife law enforcement types (Andy! Look at that woodsman! He's packing a black ops military knife big enough to lop a human head off! Can I run him in Andy?? Can I? Please Andy! If not, can I at least shake him down and search everything he's got?) (lol).

So after quite a bit of research and talking with the older mountain folks here I decided to save up and get a Puma White Hunter. I had never held one, but with a 30 day no questions asked return policy from Puma USA I figured I couldn't go wrong if I didn't like it and had to return it. After springing the money and before I got this knife I honestly started to sweat a bit because of the high cost. After receiving it today though I'm extremely impressed with it, more so than any other knife I've ever held or owned and wouldn't dream of returning it now.

It has a great high quality leather sheath that is both beautiful, tough looking, and highly functional. The snap on it pops with a loud reassuring sound, and the string that's attached to the bottom of the sheath to secure around the leg seems high quality as well. It has another string at the top of the sheath which seems to be there for an additional safety if the snap should ever fail. Just a really beautiful chocolate brown tough looking leather sheath (I still prefer the look, feel, and functionality of a high quality leather sheath over synthetics, though some of the newer Kydex sheaths are nice if you prefer the tactical look, like the one the Ka Bar Becker BK2 uses).

As for the knife itself, it has a wonderful balance and weighs only a little over 8 ounces (excessive weight is your enemy when traveling any distance in the back country). It has a full tang, real stag handles, great finish, and hole in the handle to accept a lanyard (very important to me). The blade is roughly 6" long, and what's unusual is that the middle part of the blade has been ground in a way to make it skinnier (but still strong) in order to be good at cutting and skinning game, while the end of the knife towards the tip is thicker and wider, which makes the knife chop much easier than the majority of knives in this length and weight class. I tried a couple of light chopping swings into a cardboard box and it just plowed into it with ease (for such a light knife).

It also has an area on the back of the blade just before the tip that's almost a 1/4 thick and looks like a great batoning surface if need be. I find the stag grips very comfortable and secure feeling, and the hand guard feels just right. There is a serrated thumb rest just ahead of the hilt on the back of the blade to aid in control, and it works wonderfully. Mine does have some kind of saw like serrations on the lower part of the blade, which I assume is for sawing through bone. Maybe another Puma WH owner can fill me in on this?

The knife has the usual Puma etchings in the blade towards the tip, to include the writing "handmade", which is a nice touch.

I haven't put it through its paces in the mountains yet, so I can only give my initial impression, which is to say that I'm pretty blown away so far. I now realize at least in part why this knife is so famous. I read a comment recently about the Puma White Hunter on another blog site from a guy who considers himself a fan of Ka Bars and Pumas that the White Hunter "As a wilderness knife the design is unexcelled, versatile and without weak points." Here's a link to his blog http://hubpages.com/hub/Guide-to-Survival-Knives-from-Ka-Bar-and-Puma

One last note- I've recently discovered that lightly used later versions of these regularly sell on ebay in excellent condition for $140 to $190, definitely more in the range of folks who would never think of spending over $200 on a knife. It's funny because no good mechanic ever thinks about spending $$$ on high quality tools to insure his longetivity and success on the job, or law or medical students going to the very best school they can afford, but yet most people are scared to death to spend the equivalent of an extra dinner or two out to get equipment that won't break (and only has to be bought once) when they're backpacking into the wilderness which can and does kill on a regular basis if not prepared. There are definitely many good knives out there but I also don't mind spending the extra $$$ to get something that is highly functional and will probably last a lifetime (lifetime warranty on these as well).

Just some food for thought and comments welcome:)

ColoradoWildMan
 
One thing I forgot to mention is that I also carry a Swiss Champ multi-tool and a high quality camp hatchet with me at all times in the back country to supplement the fixed blade knife I carry. I consider these other two as absolutely essential to survive and prosper in the wilderness.
 
great choice for that high country you wo'nt be dissapointed .if you get an elk a hatchet speeds things along
 
Thanks Dennis, do you also own a White Hunter? I'm trying to figure out what the serrations are in the blade (bone saw?).
 
the serrations are used to get thru the joints. the big animals hunted in europe are russian boars & the red stag. much of hunting in europe is strictly supervised
some countries require hunters to shoot at a range to prove their profiency.
norway & sweden have large moose populations
over there they call moose " elk"
 
i own a puma hunters friend, it is an amazing knife and you cant go wrong with puma. The older puma knives were made of the genuine pumaster steel, but some of the newer ones are made of stainless you gota be carefull. on knife i have always wanted by puma is a a rare collecteble called the waidblatt. its like a white hunter only much bigger. i believe the file part on the back is for getting through tendons and sinew. Not many knives now a days are made with the real high quality stag and of such good quality as puma knives, you wont be dissapointed
 
I have a newer one from a few years back. I think I paid about 120.00 for it. I use to have an older one I bought in Germany, in Mainz, back in 1990. The blade steel was 440C then. The fit and finish was much nicer, clean, and the knves were "more so" then now, handmade to a higher degree. They claim they still are now, but there is a very noticeable difference in the workmanship (between the two). They are 440A now I believe. Most steel used in production knives (in Germany) anymore, is either 420, or 440B. Linder (off asubject) is one of the few German manufacturers to use other steels also (ATS-34, 440A, B, C, etc.).


Genießen Sie Ihr Messer!
 
I have a few Pumas - including a 25+ yr old White Hunter. I am just not so fond of their steel, preferring the S30V use in the much less expensive (and US-made) Buck 408 Kalinga Pro and 192 (Alaskan Guide) Vanguard shown below.

IMG_0274_edited.jpg


The Bucks come with maroon leather sheaths and are $120/$100 respectively mail order. No lanyard hole, but the Puma's is too far forward, anyway. The Buck Vanguard's brass pommel is easily drilled for one, if desired. The extended S30V tang on the end of the Kalinga Pro would be a chore to drill.

BTW, the 119 is available boxed as well as in a blister pack. The black leather (Mexico) sheath, which smells like a magic marker, is supplied in the boxed 119, MSRP $81, while the nylon (PRC-made) sheath is supplied with the blister pack variant, like the $34 Wally World one. It also comes in a nicer burgundy leather sheath with a rosewood laminate handle and brass finger guard & pommel as the '0119BRS-B' Catalog #2638 MSRP $119 - almost too pretty to use.

Unfortunately, my Puma White Hunter was bought by my wife from a friend - at a gun/knife show. It has no box, but a beautiful sheath. Mine is for looks... I have Bark River and Buck knives for my camping duties. Still, that W H is neat... I can just think of better bushcraft knives. Congratulations!

Stainz
 
Check out the old box label for the highlighted selling points. Instead of on the box Puma engraved them on the blade of their dive knives.:)

pumaadvert2.jpg



If I'm going to keep posting these (sorry Dennis) I need to take a better photo...
PICT1838-1.jpg
 
because I found the shape very difficult to use and REALLY difficult to sharpen. There is not enough of a point to easily begin the cut when cleaning trout and the massive front part of the blade makes it useless for that purpose anyway. It is also of limited utility when cutting up food for meal preparation. The only thing I ever found it good for was chopping and batoning through wood.

Now I have a Puma bowie which I find a much more useful general purpose pattern. The bowie is also much lighter than the White Hunter.
 
in the early 70s pumas were top dog since very few customs were being made & most of us did'nt know 440c from a beer can.i remember when i 1st started to make a little money i came to austin & bought the entire counter display of puma knives. one thing for sure was that in 1975 nothing was as pretty as a puma.
 
Puma all the way.
Sharpen up your puma and a vintage Old Timer even a Buck . see for your self after cutting up elk.
I was not sure on the puma until i did that.
I SEE THE LIGHT NOW.
Stainless Puma Skinner. Racing Knife
 
Congrats on the new Puma. I have an old classic Puma Bowie in the old Pumaster carbon steel. They are great high quality knives.

If your sheath is like mine the string at the top will loop through the hole in the handle then over the top of the handle locking the balde in the sheath, making it impossible to lose the knife. even if you take a tumble down a hill and the snap comes loose. This is a feature I have never seen any company duplicate and it is quite handy in the field.
 
Mine's from 1966 and still going strong...though I did replace the sheath about 15 years ago.
 
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