I have a new project in mind, and could use some advice as it is off the the blade topic somewhat...
One of my "other" hobbies is breaking open hard dolomite rock structures and finding quartz crystals...some of the other guys use old leaf springs, cut in four inch lengths and ground down on one end to fit in natural cracks in the rock face. They pound one into a crack in the face of the rock, then another right next to it to split/wedge the rock open. The three or four inch width of the leaf spring works way better than chisels which just make a hole.
MY QUESTION...I plan on using the same grade 5160 steel (I think that is what leaf spring steel is) but I am unsure on what hardening/tempering process I should use, as one end will be contacting hard dolomite stone, the other will be hit with a 6 to 15 pound sledge...Any ideas?
As far as forging, I will just taper one end to fit in cracks.
*Just picture a thin wood splitting maul wedge, no thicker than 1/4 on the end being hammered with the sledge.
One of my "other" hobbies is breaking open hard dolomite rock structures and finding quartz crystals...some of the other guys use old leaf springs, cut in four inch lengths and ground down on one end to fit in natural cracks in the rock face. They pound one into a crack in the face of the rock, then another right next to it to split/wedge the rock open. The three or four inch width of the leaf spring works way better than chisels which just make a hole.
MY QUESTION...I plan on using the same grade 5160 steel (I think that is what leaf spring steel is) but I am unsure on what hardening/tempering process I should use, as one end will be contacting hard dolomite stone, the other will be hit with a 6 to 15 pound sledge...Any ideas?
As far as forging, I will just taper one end to fit in cracks.
*Just picture a thin wood splitting maul wedge, no thicker than 1/4 on the end being hammered with the sledge.