Photos New Set of Puukkos

Juha Perttula · Apr 27, 2017

I got finished a new set of puukkos. I love to make a set of similar items. At this moment I make only one puukko model. Atraction toward serial production helps me to keep the price low, 95 USD with free international shipping, and also makes possible to field test every detail. I will soon show some photos of field tests of this puukko model, for instance, its super strong stick tang.

Blade: 80CrV2, 3", 1/8" (3.3 mm) double hardened (edge 63 HRC, spine 50 HRC), made by Lauri
Handle: 4", Curly Birch, stained, oiled by boiled linseed oil
Sheath: Veg tan leather, shellac hardened, beeswax greased, brass plated rivets are torch patinated

http://www.juhaperttula.com/

Dusty One · Apr 27, 2017

Very Nice !

Juha Perttula · Apr 30, 2017

Stick tang has bad reputation because many poorly made knives. But a properly made stick tang construction can be very strong. My puukkos have the following construction.

Puukko without handle. The tang starts wide and tapers down to the end. A spring pin rivet at the end is very secure fastening.

I glue the tang into the handle, because without the glue it it may come loose over time, particularly if you practice patoning.

But a good stick tang knife withstands impacts. My puukko model has a little bit too small blade for patoning, but in emergency situation it does the job and won't brake.

Hengelo_77 · May 1, 2017

"A spring pin rivet at the end "

Can you explain what you mean there please

Juha Perttula · May 1, 2017

I hope this picture helps

Left. The end of a tang. Center. A loosely fitted spring pin. Right. The spring pin is hammered on the tang.
The inner diameter of the spring pin is 5.5 mm, and the tang is 6 mm. So, the spring opens 0.5 mm, and the tension keeps it on its position. Usually in machine constructions spring pins are hammered into holes, but they also work in the other way round.
I use 8x20 mm spring pins (DIN 1481 St). The pin in the picture was longer and it was shortened to 20 mm.

If a spring pin, tang, and handle is ground together, the end of a finished handle looks like this.

Hengelo_77 · May 1, 2017

thnx, do you fill the opening with epoxy or so?

Juha Perttula · May 2, 2017

Yes, I fill the opening with epoxy or hot glue. If something goes wrong, hot glue can be remounted, epoxy is permanent. The melting temperature of hot glue is generally 55 or 80 degree of Celcius. The later is better for knives, if the summer is very hot. I think the epoxy is stronger. I have tested that other fastening is not mandatory with epoxy. If you make notches on the tang, and glue it into the handle with epoxy, it does not come away without breaking the handle.

Here is an example of a notched tang which can be mounted with epoxy.

Juha Perttula · May 8, 2017

I also introduce how the tangs of Finnish puukkos were mounted into handles before invention of epoxy. Many puukkos had bare wooden handle, but better ones had ferrules. When I was a child I got this puukko from my grandfather and he told that it is 200 years old. Now it is 250 years old and still in good working condition. Inferior quality old puukkos usually have loose handle, but this one has still a solid fit. The reason is strong ferrule. Fitting work was minimal, the tang was nailed into a tight hole, wood deformed, and the ferrule prevented the handle splitting into two.

The ferrule is an ugly ring, which is typical for ancient puukkos. It is stronger than a bolster. Modern puukosmiths prefer better looking bolster. The ring ferrule is not any more necessary, because invention of epoxy.

The tang is peened over the brass plate.

The Zieg · May 8, 2017

Very nice puukot. Thanks for the history, too.

Zieg

Juha Perttula · May 17, 2017

A puukko arrived from the field and the blade had got a new shape. In the picture, a new puukko with the original sharp point is above, and the used puukko with the drop point is below.

The sharp point was excellent for wood carving, but it did not withstand severe hitting. The point broke, and after grinding and sharpening the blade got the drop point shape. Now it is stronger and therefore better for serious bushcraft operations, but the whittling ability is slightly reduced. I do not know which is better, perhaps I should offer my customers these two point options.

Juha Perttula · Jun 22, 2017

I got more test results from the field (3 puukkos). Otherwise than earlier, the sharp point withstood severe hitting, like that in the picture. The point bent but did not brake. So, I stick with the original sharp pointed whittling blades. According to the latest test results they are very suitable for bushcraft.