New sharpening video - Shapton Glass Stones and Arashiyama vs. Henckels

Magnaminous_G

Magnaminous_G

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Jul 13, 2011
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Sharpened up a Henckels 8" carving knife for a customer in time for his Christmas turkey. Progression: Shapton GS 120 and 500, Arashiyama 1000, CKTG cowhide strop with 1mu DiaPaste. This was a badly damaged edge that needed a lot of bevel work. I also took my sweet time to explain and talk about a few things, so apologies for the length!


[youtube]4GS5TuSaa_A[/youtube]
 
I'm sorry but I don't have an hour to watch at the moment, How long would it take you if you weren't filming? (I'm assuming that you go from completely destroyed/no edge to super sharp with all the correct steps)

Anyway, thanks for the video, yours are always really educational.
 
Nicely done.

You mentioned there being deep chips in the edge. Have you ever tried grinding straight into the stone? I like doing this for several reasons, namely speed with really jacked up edges. Also, is there a reason you don't angle the stone more? It seems like you are bending around to the side of it over the counter? I only mention this cause i've been very conscious of how i have my stones placed on tables lately.

Do you use the nagura just to lap the 1k stone? And have you tried to sharpen with that mixed slurry?
 
Hi fervens,

If the edge is really bad, I will raise the angle a lot to get past chips. This knife was one where the chips sorts of revealed themselves the more I ground with the coarse stone. It was so dull and warped and also damaged from a carbide-V scraper (which you can see in the opening seconds), that the chips were just one problem. So I just kept grinding away.

I have been aware of how awkward my push stroke it is for a while now, but your post really drives it home. Me bending around the stone is because I try to replicate the scratch pattern direction as much as possible on both sides. That means that I am trying to do a "pull stroke" on both sides. This works and lets me get a good, even angle. However, I have had plans to try a different technique (closer to what knifenut does in his "tuning up a Henckels" vid), which I will try on the next few knives.

The nagura is not used to lap. It is only used to clean. The Arashiyama stones, like the Shaptons, don't really dish. They do load, though, so it's necessary to clean. The Shaptons don't load, so there's no need to clean them.
 
Magnaminous_G said:
Me bending around the stone is because I try to replicate the scratch pattern direction as much as possible on both sides. That means that I am trying to do a "pull stroke" on both sides.
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I have tried sharpening in a similar position, and found myself leaning my hip on the counter when I'm sharpening with the edge away from me. Since then I've started putting the stone on a slight angle and pulling the know toward me with my right hand and push it away with my left. Of course, that's if I'm actually using a table instead of holding the stone in my left hand and knife in right.
 
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Fine edge there M, thanks for sharing. You sure have acquired a high level of skills over the last little while.

You mentioned the Spyderco Sharpmaker and pressure - generally I think one uses less pressure on the Sharpmaker to begin with since not even the weight of the knife is on the stone due to the vertical position. Once one comes to the point of polishing/finishing on the sharpmaker (no matter whether of the diamond rods, or grey/brown, or UF etc.) I recommend to let go of the sharp maker with the non-knife holding hand. As long as the sharp maker is not bolted on the surface or sitting on a sticky surface (rubber etc.), it slides easily sideways unless you use ultra low pressure. This helps to keep forces low!

To this day, my sharpmaker is the benchmark of edge/apex cleanness (is that actually a word?) coming off a stone that I constantly test myself against freehand.
 
Nice vid Mag!

Relative to the conversation between you and Fervens, I found that keeping the stone just shy of a 45 in front of me allows for best uniformity/replication of scratch pattern side to side. Seems to allow a consistent 45 degree edge to grind path. Have gotten good results making the scratch pattern at a more shallow angle, though tends to take a bit off the "catchy" feeling in favor of a better pressure cutting edge. Real reason I do it that way (as with so much of my technique) is I find it promotes better angle stability as I grind - tend to loose stability as my grind path gets too far beyond 45 degrees in either direction.

Martin
 
Chris Pierce said:
thanks for the video, yours are always really educational.
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Thanks, Chris!

bluntcut said:
Great edge, Mag! I speed watched it - thanks for the time & sharing!
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Thanks, bluntcut!

HeavyHanded said:
Nice vid Mag!

Relative to the conversation between you and Fervens, I found that keeping the stone just shy of a 45 in front of me allows for best uniformity/replication of scratch pattern side to side. Seems to allow a consistent 45 degree edge to grind path. Have gotten good results making the scratch pattern at a more shallow angle, though tends to take a bit off the "catchy" feeling in favor of a better pressure cutting edge. Real reason I do it that way (as with so much of my technique) is I find it promotes better angle stability as I grind - tend to loose stability as my grind path gets too far beyond 45 degrees in either direction.

Martin
Click to expand...

Hi, Martin. You point out yet another thing I've been thinking about! :D The things people notice are often things I've thought about myself but their posts drive it home. I have thought about (and tried) moving the stone angle relative to me. I might try that next after working on my push stroke if the minor alterations I am thinking of don't do the trick.

Cheers guys,

Mag
 
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