New sharpmaker rods

J

James4226c

Joined
Jan 14, 2009
Messages
30
Hi everyone I just recently baught 2 new UF rods for my sharpmaker and a new pair of Diamond rods.They'er really clean but seem used. I have a few questions.

1. the UF and F rods are indistnguishable by touch is that normal?

2. the diamond rods are very, very scratched up towards the base of the rods is that also normal?

3. May be off topic, but I purchesed them from KNIFECENTER.com are their products/quality of products trustworthy?

Thanks
James
 
Try running a fingernail, held perpendicular and with moderate pressure, up and down the sides of the fine and ultra-fine rods. Do you still feel no difference?
 
in regards to the diamond rods they are supposed to have a bare spot at the bottom is that what you are talking about?

your UF rods didn't come with the bright red end?
 
mine were a bit scratched at the bottom as well it doesnt really affect the function of the rods so I didn't stress it.
 
one more question I've had a BM42 for about a week and I've been using it for alot of cutting (box, letter, fabric, shaver among other things) and I'm trying to sharpen it for the first time but I haven't been able to get it back to 100% the best I can do is 85-90% am I doing something wrong?

FYI I've only had the sharpmaker for a week also

Thanks
James
 
Read up on the sharpie trick. Run a black sharpie down the edge and then do a few swipes at 40 degrees. Look carefully at where the sharpie was removed. All the way to the edge? Repeat at 30 degrees and you'll get a good idea of where the factory edge was. Some might prefer 30 then 40. You may well find that you need to reprofile a bit with the diamond rods in order to hit the edge. If you don't raise a burr along the whole edge, you won't get sharp.
 
James4226c said:
one more question I've had a BM42 for about a week and I've been using it for alot of cutting (box, letter, fabric, shaver among other things) and I'm trying to sharpen it for the first time but I haven't been able to get it back to 100% the best I can do is 85-90% am I doing something wrong?

FYI I've only had the sharpmaker for a week also

Thanks
James
Click to expand...

We need more info on how you are sharpening to give you any advise. Please start with the sharpy trick at the 30deg. angles with light pressure, and then report back
 
Hi guys at 40 degrees with the sharpie trick its taking out the edge but its not even on both side and along the whole blade. I know the uneveness is due to my amature error. correct me if I'm wrong:

I have to keep even pressure.
Keep the knife parallel.
Pressing harder is not always better.
Take my time.

Thanks
 
Last edited:
James4226c said:
Hi guys at 40 degrees with the sharpie trick its taking out the edge but its not even on both side and along the whole blade. I know the uneveness is due to my amature error. correct me if I'm wrong:

I have to keep even pressure.
Keep the knife perpendicular.
Pressing harder is not always better.
Take my time.

Thanks
Click to expand...

I want you to get some 250 gritt wet dry and remove as much of the shoulder as possible untill the scratch marks get close to the edge. Then you can go to the 30deg sharpmaker and start with the sharpy trick again. If you just use the sharpmaker without the wet dry you might be there awhile. Just use The wet dry on a table with c-clamps to hold it, and if you want you can also get other grits to help refine the new bevels before you use the sharpmaker.
 
donny bee said:
I want you to get some 250 gritt wet dry and remove as much of the shoulder as possible untill the scratch marks get close to the edge. Then you can go to the 30deg sharpmaker and start with the sharpy trick again. If you just use the sharpmaker without the wet dry you might be there awhile. Just use The wet dry on a table with c-clamps to hold it, and if you want you can also get other grits to help refine the new bevels before you use the sharpmaker.
Click to expand...

If I'm just removing the sharpie ink that means I have no shoulders right?
 
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