Photos New Shop Update

Joined
Jan 13, 2017
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At the beginning of the year I came on here with guns blazing and said that I'd be making knives and wanted some advice on equipment to start out with. I had this wild idea that I could do what I wanted in a tiny space, and with a minimal budget. The responses that I received were mixed, at best, but mostly opened my eyes to the reality of the situation. I appreciate that, truly, and spent a lot longer putting all of this together. I started a spreadsheet to lay out the equipment and funding needed. Now, months later... I'm a few coats of poly and some trim work away from being up and running.

For those of you that remember, I had 2 options for the shop space. A 10x10 portion of a 10x20 shed, or a 16x16 2 story barn. I didn't go with either. My stepdad and I decided to enclose a 10x16 awning/lean-to on one side of the 16x16. I used 2x6 studs for good insulation and bought a decent door and window. We will be cutting out a large doorway into the 16x16 area in the near future. That will allow us to expand as needed. Eventually, the upstairs of the 16x16 will be a finish room. We may even add similar additions to the other side and the back. This image should give you an idea.

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I pondered things over and over. My girlfriend and parents would literally try to distract me just to give my mind a rest. I filed for LLC status and started making purchases well before the shop was ready. I somewhat regret that... only because I had boxes, insulation, and other shit stacked to the ceiling in the 16x16 side and getting to something I needed was impossible due to all of the woodworking machinery already in there. It all worked out though. Here is what the inside looks like now, minus a metal cutting bandsaw I put together Friday night using the worst possible directions imaginable... just a picture and a parts list.

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In this picture you can see a mistake. We originally wanted the EvenHeat KF22.5 to back up to the cement board wall. I realized that it greatly limited my space in that corner. My stepdad and I had planned to put a full size oven in for tempering. That limited our space even more. I settled for an extra large toaster oven for now. We plan to add the full size oven to the 16x16 side when we expand. Also, I got a Blue Ridge Mini Split for heat and air. I did most of the install and a local HVAC guy did the final hookup for $125. That unit is rated for 350 sq ft.

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This picture shows most of my bench area. I've got 3 bench vises to play with and figure out which ones I like. I also have a Wicked Edge Pro Pack III to sit somewhere, probably in the corner near the breaker box. The bench height is functional for me both standing or sitting in a stool. I still need to figure out the organization and under bench storage aspect of things. The lighting is 4 separate 4ft LED lamps and 2 architect style swinging arm LED lights that clamp on where needed. One is visible in the next picture.

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I finally decided on the NorthRidge Tool Pro Package. It came with the Baldor motor and small wheel attachment. I have a 1" wheel for now. I will probably be ordering a contact wheel from them in the near future. I called Tru-Grit and got set up with Blaze belts, AO belts, leather, and cork. I also installed a JET air filtration unit on the ceiling. It has the 5 micron and 1 micron filters... and really turns the air over. I was impressed by its power but the noise left something to be desired. I also have a 16 gallon shop vac with a HEPA filter for additional cleanup.

So, like I said in the beginning... a bit more to go with trim work and finishing up under the benches. My electrician buddy did a great job making sure I had enough outlets and we're using less than a 1/3 of that breaker box so I can add more as needed. Some tools and equipment aren't shown, but I didn't want to have them in there just to work around while finishing up.

I have some steel from NJ Steel Baron. All 1084 to start with. .250 (2 3"x"48"), .156 (5 3"x48"), and .125 (2 3"x48"). My stepdad has stacks of dried walnut, oak, pecan, and hemlock for handle materials to start out with. My girlfriend's father also gave me some additional furniture grade walnut, oak, and european beech scraps he got from one of the companies he supplies. I ordered a stabilization kit to start curing blanks as I'm finishing up the shop. Basically... I have everything I THINK I need between what you see here, some stuff still in boxes, and some of my stepdad's wood working tools and equipment (mainly the Shop Smith).

I would greatly appreciate any input on the bench layout, shelving, peg board, and under bench storage. I read a few threads out there with some ideas but I feel like there are more floating around. For the belts, we plan to build a hinged door/wall with pegs on both sides. It doubles the storage in a collapsable space.

I would also love to hear your thoughts on possibly venting the heat treat area. With the AC overhead, I think that area may have been overlooked in a planning sense. It would be better to adjust it now than have to do it later.

I can't wait to get started. My parents and I were talking over the weekend and Mom mentioned that there are only a few times in my life that I have been so passionate and driven. When I bought my first bike, when I joined the ARMY as a Special Forces candidate and was selected into the Q Course to chase my stepdad's legacy as a Green Beret, and when I got it in my head that I was going to thru-hike the Appalachian Trail three weeks after being medically retired. This endeavor is no different than any of those... only more variables. I have never felt so alive.

As always, thanks in advance... even for the negative feedback. :(
 
Congratulations on the new shop, it looks like it's coming together nicely!! I'm waiting on mine to show up on a tractor trailer next week. As far as layout, my personal experience says you'll move stuff around and figure out what works for you. I've moved mine around a few times now, and have a layout that works well for the available space I have maximizing usability. I'll have the same square footage in the new shop as i do this one just 8' x 40' rather than 16' x 20' of the current one. One would think that the 16' x 20' would work better, but after laying out drawings for the new one, I'll actually have more usable space and be able to work on 4 wheelers in the shop again by moving one table and a saw. I don't have a kiln for HT as of yet, I use a gas forge with thermo couple. It is currently stationary, but in the new shop (40' sea container) it will be on a small metal rolling cart I can wheel outside in the hot months and use inside in the cold months opening windows to vent in fresh air. When I finally get a kiln I'll probably do the same thing and use a rolling cart to store it on and be able to move it in or out as needed when HTing. since I'm doing all my own electrical work, I'll simply wire an exterior plug for future use. Plus it wont hurt having a 220 plug accessible from outside if i ever need to run anything 220. Anyway, good luck..
 
I probably reorganize my shop 2-3 times per year. Always changes with how I do things, and new additions. You'll get pretty creative on layout when it comes time to fit in the 3rd bandsaw and 4th drill press.

You're on the right track with the air filter, but I can't recommend dust collection highly enough. In my opinion 1.5-2hp is the minimum. I've got a really good setup I'm super happy with, but it cost substantially more than my grinder to set up.
 
Thank you for your service. It looks very good so far. I would recommend you have a way to hook your vacuum up to the black catch funnel (or better yet, get a dust collector). You definitely want to do this when sanding wood, G-10, Micarta, etc. You can also use this when grinding steel, although you would want to make a spark bong arrestor to kill the sparks before they go to the vac. Glad to see you made lighting a priority. If this were my shop, that area to the right of your toaster oven would be my go to area for close inspection of your work. you can't beat natural sunlight. Keep up the good work.
 
looks good ! everyone should have a window facing the bench :D i would just install a kitchen exhaust fan in the wall over the oven and make a hood. or use a pre made oven exhaust hood that vents outside.
 
You're on the right track with the air filter, but I can't recommend dust collection highly enough. In my opinion 1.5-2hp is the minimum. I've got a really good setup I'm super happy with, but it cost substantially more than my grinder to set up.

What is your setup? I've looked at them and priced a few. I'm all for safety. Thanks.

Thank you for your service. It looks very good so far. I would recommend you have a way to hook your vacuum up to the black catch funnel (or better yet, get a dust collector). You definitely want to do this when sanding wood, G-10, Micarta, etc. You can also use this when grinding steel, although you would want to make a spark bong arrestor to kill the sparks before they go to the vac. Glad to see you made lighting a priority. If this were my shop, that area to the right of your toaster oven would be my go to area for close inspection of your work. you can't beat natural sunlight. Keep up the good work.

Thanks! As far as the catch funnel, I bought a piece that attaches to the bottom. Not sure what it's called, but it has a "Y" with one tube going straight down and the other coming off the side at a downward angle. I got it after seeing some of the DIY dust collection with shop vacs, but haven't quite gotten a grasp of the idea. I think I need water in the bucket and to hook the shop vac to the tube coming off the side? The garage at my parent's home has dust collection tubing installed, but no unit. We plan to put all of that down there... eventually. As far as the window, I'm really glad I went with that size. It works out perfectly where it is, in my opinion, and offers the natural light of two smaller windows based on the location of the sun.
 
you can put a gate on the "y" sections and open the one to the bucket, that has water in it (and close the other) when grinding metal. do the opposite to grind non metal with a vac hooked up the "Non-Bucket" "Y". Or do a youtube search on "spark bong" and see how that works. My spark bong draws some water to the vacuum, which I don't want, but i'm not sure if that's normal. I would say it's better than running dry for metal grinding. I aim to put a "Y" on my set up and switch between the optimal set ups for steel and other materials.
 
Send your stabilization out to KnG, stay away from jimping, get good at grinding before forging.

Resist the temptation to chase every little thing and build a solid basic skill-set

More windows.


Read my standard reply again.
 
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Here it is. The dust chute is something I welded together. The sectioned elbow is enough to keep the sparks from hitting the hose (standard dust collector hose) and I've been running it this way for over a year without any trouble. The key is having enough airflow to keep things moving. I put the screen in the chute to keep it from sucking my belts up (which it otherwise did regularly).
The dust collector is the standard sort of 1.5hp metalworking dust collector sold by the various chinese/Taiwanese tool importers (grizzly, ect. Mine is a Canadian dealer). The motor and switch don't look right, but I swapped it over to a 120 motor (sold 240 only) due to a lack of spare circuits. It draws enough on startup to trip a 15 amp breaker unless you plug the chute with something like a board until it gets up to speed. The 6" line is 10' long, and is a massive improvement in flow over 4". I have it direct vented outside, which made a big difference too. I'd want at least a 2hp collector if I had to filter it.

I also find that pouring a couple inches of water in the catch pan will keep most of the dust in the collector, as well as making collector fires much more difficult.

I'd also recommend cutting out the screen on the inlet to the collector. Before I did that a big ball of grinding dust somehow built up, and started restricting flow to the point dust built up in the hose. That dust eventually caught fire, and the sparks off it (stainless ground on 36 grit burns like steel wool) ignited the ball in the inlet.
I'd highly recommend having a CO2 extinguisher in the shop, as they make no mess, and dumping one in the dust chute will tend to kill a collector fire pretty quick. But if your system is put together properly, and you make the modifications I suggested that will never come up.

I have a seperate 1hp woodworking dust collector that is permanently attached to my buffer as well. In the new shop I'll get a 2-3hp collector and have ducting ran to every woodworking machine.

Good dust collection is in my opinion one of the most important parts of any shop.
 
Also, don't buy the Hermes hermisit belts
Those ones on the end of my rack have probably been there 3-4 years, and I still haven't found anything they're good for.... 60 grit leaves a finish like a 36, and cuts like a dull 120.... Damn things last forever too, haven't even been able to kill the first one using it for general fabrication work
 
Also, don't buy the Hermes hermisit belts
Those ones on the end of my rack have probably been there 3-4 years, and I still haven't found anything they're good for.... 60 grit leaves a finish like a 36, and cuts like a dull 120.... Damn things last forever too, haven't even been able to kill the first one using it for general fabrication work

Nice dust collector. I didn't get any Hermes. Spent a while on the phone with one of the guys at Tru-Grit and we came up with this as my first order.

10 2x72-36 R980 Blaze Plus Ceramic
25 2x72-60 R980 Blaze Plus Ceramic
25 2x72-120 R980 Blaze Plus Ceramic
15 2x72-220 707JE Regalite Ceramic
15 2x72-220 R984Y Ceramic
10 2x72-320 X45 U254 Norax Pyramid Aluminum Oxide
10 2x72-600 X30 U254 Norax Pyramid Aluminum Oxide
10 2x72-800 X22 U254 Norax Pyramid Aluminum Oxide
10 2x72-1200 X16 U254 Norax Pyramid Aluminum Oxide
10 2x72-3000 X5 U254 Norax Pyramid Aluminum Oxide
1 2x72-Leather Belt # SS15
 
That's a good start. I like a lot of Hermes belts, just not those specific ones. I'd highly recommend cork belts as well. I'd be inclined to add some 3m gator belts myself. I keep both them and norax around, and use them for different applications. Other ceramic belts that'd be worth trying would be the VSM and the Norton R999B.

Also if you don't have a 1x42, I'd suggest getting some jflex belts for handle shaping.
That should definitely get you going on blade grinding for a while though. Trugrit is my go to supplier. Generally cheaper to buy from them than anyone in Canada
 
Also if you don't have a 1x42, I'd suggest getting some jflex belts for handle shaping.
That should definitely get you going on blade grinding for a while though. Trugrit is my go to supplier. Generally cheaper to buy from them than anyone in Canada

I've pondered a 1x42 or something similar to have just for handle shaping. I also read that many people use the smaller grinders for sharpening. Considering how much less they cost in comparison, should that be something I invest in off the get go... or can I make the Northridge work for now? If the Northridge, can you suggest some J-Flex belts in the 2x72 size?

Also, it was a slow night at work... college bars in college towns are considerably slower over the summer... so I got to do some Googling. I'll be setting up my spark bucket with the shop vac for now. I say for now because I figure the more I grind, the more I'll want a trust dust collection system. I saw some threads on here with drawings/diagrams/examples. Luckily it won't cost much to set up. I've got a lot in this as it is.

Thanks for the input!
 
I use the 1x42 Kalamazoo I had before my big grinder, but you could easily use a slack belt on the 2x72.

My handle shaping recommendations would be some 50 grit x weight aluminum oxide 2x72 belts for roughing out handles (saves wasting ceramics) and then 100, 220, and 400 grit Jflex aluminum oxides. I prefer a 1" wide belt for shaping handles (what I learned with, and easier to get in tighter spots) so you can either buy some 1x72 belts, or buy only 2x72 and rip them in half from the splice when needed (I'd recommend practicing on worn out belts first)

As for brands, personally I think the klingspor are the best, although Hermes are a very close second. I think I currently have Hermes for the 50 and 100, and klingspor for the 220 and 400. I've used some of the value brand belts as well. They are decent, but are definitely outlasted by the klingspor. And the cost difference is very small....

Klingspor has two different jflex belts as well, I don't remember the numbers, but one is brown with a typical grey backing, the other is yellow with a blue backing. The yellow ones are a bit more flexible, and for some reason seem to last a bit longer.
 
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I browsed shop organization and belt storage threads on here. This is the best I could come up with considering the wall space I had... it basically tripled it. Just a piece of 3/4 BC on 3 hinges. I still have to make a contraption to keep it in the closed position when I want to. Also got the spark arrestor built. Seems to be working without any issues. It's pictured but the vac isn't hooked up.

As far as J weight belts... I sent the non updated invoice previously. I forgot that I called and added some up to 1000 grit. I also bought 5 of those red label abrasive "fine" assortments off of Amazon to give them a go.

Any way, peg board shows up tomorrow. At that point I can remove some of the clutter on my work bench and give the Wicked Edge a resting spot. Once I get the area under the kiln cleaned I think I'll have most of the organization set.
 

I see a lot of folks hang all their belts on the wall.

Consider this
They are not jewelry, no need to put them all on display, just what you need that day.
You will get grit contamination of larger grit debris on the finer grit belts that will cause unwanted scratches.
If your shop has humidity issues, you're aging the glue joint to fail before it's time.

Consider putting them in a pail that seals out the dust and humidity, sorted in pails by grit.
It keeps them clean, dry and organized.
 
I see a lot of folks hang all their belts on the wall.

Consider this
They are not jewelry, no need to put them all on display, just what you need that day.
You will get grit contamination of larger grit debris on the finer grit belts that will cause unwanted scratches.
If your shop has humidity issues, you're aging the glue joint to fail before it's time.

Consider putting them in a pail that seals out the dust and humidity, sorted in pails by grit.
It keeps them clean, dry and organized.

I was planning to close the backside and wall parts in like a cabinet and caulk it/use weather stripping to keep the dust at a minimum. Good idea with the bucket though.
 
I hang my belts on the wall, the workbench, the drill press, the welding cart, the floor, the ceiling, the deer horns.... Your system is nice.
 
I hang my belts on the wall, the workbench, the drill press, the welding cart, the floor, the ceiling, the deer horns.... Your system is nice.
Jason, that sounds like me. I have belts everywhere. Even though I know some are worn out, I can't seem to bring myself to throw them away.

To the O.P. you're looking good. One thing I see missing is a vise. Next to the grinder, that's probably where I spend the most time. Pay attention to location. I like having mine mounted to a 2x8 that sticks out from the bench. I've also used 6-8" channel in the past if you really want it stiff. That way I have access to both sides of the vice and it allows me to mount items in it that hang down and don't hit the bench and is perfect for the long hours of hand sanding ahead of you.

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Wow that's pretty awesome set up man. Seems really organized. What group where you with? Spent a few years as support with 5th group at Campbell.
 
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