New Shopemade Propane Forge

rhrocker

rhrocker

Joined
Jan 18, 2004
Messages
1,135
Here's a picture of my new forge I just finished. I built it with "canned" work in mind, but can easily be used for single blades just as well by using a single burner. I used "T-Rex" burners from Rex Price (great guy BTW), and also used info from Todd Fischer, Darren Ellis, and of course the Ron Reil site. It's 12.5 x 24, with three layers of 2,700 degree Kaowool, and several coats of ITC-100. The front and back openings are 3.5" x 4.5". Reaches welding heat in minutes, and I can close off all but a small section by using a movable wall of kaowool board.
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Thats awsome no big propane tank! how long will a tank last you?
Thanks for shareing
Peace
Bob
 
Bob, about all that little bitty bottle did was help me cure the ITC-100 :D I draw from a large tank when using this thing.
 
Nice forge, Robert! I'll bet that thing can really cook a billet in no time at all.
 
When I clicked on the fototime link there was nothing on the left to click on ????
Sorry
The forge in the first picture looks great -- just like owning a dragon I'll bet.
 
I don't know Pete. I just tried it, and it brings up my albumn of some of my shop tools. On the left hand side of the screen are the other albumns listed, one of which is called "My forge". I don't know why it didn't show up like that on your link/however I know very little about computers anyway. :confused:
 
I solved the problem of not being able to see anything on the left side of fototime.
When I got to work this morning I used the office computer to look at the page and every thing was there.
At home I have a rather powerful popup blocker and some sites won't let you see much if they can't put on some of their ads.

Again the forge is great and my Son will really like the rolling mill pictures because he has been wanting one and this should give him some good ideas towards building one.
Keep up the good work and the great pictures.
Thanks
 
Thanks everyone! I realize that I really should have made this picture a thumbnail, so it would load better, will do so next time. I appreciate all the comments! As far as the PSI, I haven't had enough time yet with it for any shop notes, but will let you know! So far it looks like very low PSI can be used, but that may not be the case. When I do cans, I just know that I want it really hot!
 
I know that I should know this but I dont know,,,,,,What is the purpose of the "extra circuit" that goes around the vertical gas line? Thanks,,great forge, and nice shop.


JM Wands
 
jmwands said:
I know that I should know this but I dont know,,,,,,What is the purpose of the "extra circuit" that goes around the vertical gas line?
Click to expand...

Idle circuit. Close the main valve to reduce the fire in the forge for working at the anvil.
 
Dwight's right, or in my case, answering the darn telephone and being stuck on it for 15 minutes :grumpy: It holds the heat really well, and flipping the circuit back to full reheats it back in a matter of seconds it seems. One other thing I'll do pretty soon is replace the ball valve in the idle circuit for a more minutely controllable style of valve. The idler circuit isn't independently regulated, so the pressure goes up and down with the adjustment of the main fuel line regulator, but it isn't a problem. I'm waiting for my thermowell to get here so I can mount my pyrometer in the forge and take temp readings. I guess it's overkill since most everyone seems to be able to look at the forge and tell how hot it is, but not me, can't do it very well. :confused:
 
I second the point about rex, a very helpful person and easy to deal with. I have a couple of his t-rex burnners, and I have a shorty on the way with two nipples that I hope to be able to use for everything on the low end from one bick forges to maybe a small upright.

RH, how does the bypass work? I have seen the diagrams, but I'm not sure I get it. I assume the central feed is the main line, and when you turn that off it forces all the juice through the left bypass which is permanetly set on low. So when on full it could go through either, but mainly the central fully open one, but when that is closed it get squished down on the bypass? Am I making any sense?


Also, why do you have two regulators in the line, one near the burnners, and one near the bottle? I'm assuming the bottle end one is for some other application?
 
Protactical said:
RH, how does the bypass work? I have seen the diagrams, but I'm not sure I get it. I assume the central feed is the main line, and when you turn that off it forces all the juice through the left bypass which is permanetly set on low. So when on full it could go through either, but mainly the central fully open one, but when that is closed it get squished down on the bypass? Am I making any sense?
Click to expand...

That's it exactly, I couldn't have explained it better myself :) I use a regulator at the bottle just for safety, keeping it set at 30 psi or so, in case the hose gets severed or burned :eek: . The one at the forge is the main pressure control, I keep it at 6-8 generally, but later this week will try my first Damascus (with this forge), and will experiment in the 10-12 range probably.
 
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