New small wheel attachment design, input wanted

[REK Knives]

I've always been annoyed when using small wheels how the bearings get in the way so I designed this.

I'm thinking of making this for myself... This would allow for wheels down to 1/8" but they would be free floating. I would like a way to lock them in but not sure how I could do that w/ such small rods. I was going to use push on retaining rings on the ends to prevent them from drifting to one end or ther other.

The center bearing support can be removed pretty easily, not sure if I would need to though except to replace those tiny middle bearings. This uses all mcmaster carr components pretty much so that part will be easy to source.

You can check out the 3D version here

 

[mike-E]

seems like a decent concept. are those c-clips to keep the wheel centered between the bearings? If so won't those create the same problem you're trying to eliminate?
Just an observation, but you have to have some way of preventing the wheels from moving left and right if those aren't c clips. I believe the angle on the belt seam pushes the wheel to one side.

 

[REK Knives]

seems like a decent concept. are those c-clips to keep the wheel centered between the bearings? If so won't those create the same problem you're trying to eliminate?
Just an observation, but you have to have some way of preventing the wheels from moving left and right if those aren't c clips. I believe the angle on the belt seam pushes the wheel to one side.

thanks for the feedback... those are push-on retaining rings. They shouldn't get in the way as they are only 1/4" in diameter, and that rod is 1/8" rod. So there is WAY less material jutting out than the huge bearings you normally see on each side.

 

[Natlek]

thanks for the feedback... those are push-on retaining rings. They shouldn't get in the way as they are only 1/4" in diameter, and that rod is 1/8" rod. So there is WAY less material jutting out than the huge bearings you normally see on each side.

I like that design..............if I ever build something with that kind of small wheels , that is what i would do if you don t mind
Maybe something like this to support shaft from ends.There are very low forces on shaft from sides so no big friction there .........
Or push-on retaining rings from outside ?

 

[Natlek]

thanks for the feedback... those are push-on retaining rings. They shouldn't get in the way as they are only 1/4" in diameter, and that rod is 1/8" rod. So there is WAY less material jutting out than the huge bearings you normally see on each side.

This are 4mm dia. hardened steel rods .It take a LOT of force in middle to slightly bend them when they are supported only on ends .No way belt could bend them . 1/8 is about 3,2mm ? so maybe little bigger would not need that bearings in middle for support ?

 

[WValtakis]

There's an interesting alternative for tight radius grinding in this thread...pretty nifty actually.

 

[REK Knives]

This are 4mm dia. hardened steel rods .It take a LOT of force in middle to slightly bend them when they are supported only on ends .No way belt could bend them . 1/8 is about 3,2mm ? so maybe little bigger would not need that bearings in middle for support ?

Yeah that's a great idea - that is a ton of tension on my belt though for one little rod to support.... but anyway, as the wheel diameter got larger the center of the rod moves out... I had originally considered putting these on each end and a little divot in the end of the rod so it sort of snaps in, but that would only work with one diameter of rod

 

[REK Knives]

There's an interesting alternative for tight radius grinding in this thread...pretty nifty actually.

I had a hard time telling how that worked... basically just a bar at the end that the belt rides over? My issue w/ that is that at low speeds my grinder will stall out with all that added friction and the heat and wear would be high on it.

 

[WValtakis]

I had a hard time telling how that worked... basically just a bar at the end that the belt rides over? My issue w/ that is that at low speeds my grinder will stall out with all that added friction and the heat and wear would be high on it.

Yeah, basically...but with a high pressure air source that feeds air in at the corner as a "bearing"...should be very low friction and heat.

 

[mike-E]

thanks for the feedback... those are push-on retaining rings. They shouldn't get in the way as they are only 1/4" in diameter, and that rod is 1/8" rod. So there is WAY less material jutting out than the huge bearings you normally see on each side.

I was thinking you wanted total clearance for grinding fullers.

 

[REK Knives]

I was thinking you wanted total clearance for grinding fullers.

Yeah for the larger wheels I should even able to simply by turning down the ends, but for the 1/8" rod spent something else had to be done. Still thinking though what would be best

 

[Natlek]

Yeah that's a great idea - that is a ton of tension on my belt though for one little rod to support.... but anyway, as the wheel diameter got larger the center of the rod moves out... I had originally considered putting these on each end and a little divot in the end of the rod so it sort of snaps in, but that would only work with one diameter of rod

Well , I thought you make this just for 1/8 For what you need that small Dia. ? Plunge radius ?

 

[Natlek]

Yeah for the larger wheels I should even able to simply by turning down the ends, but for the 1/8" rod spent something else had to be done. Still thinking though what would be best

With little more thick rod this would work without that push-on retaining rings ..............Red color = bearing

Or maybe flanged bearings on ends and small channel in rod where flange would ride ? I don't think it will lose its strength that way ?

 

[JTknives]

For super small stuff I just used a carbide rod and stuck it in a hole and ran the belt over it. The carbide did not care that the belt was heating it up. Super simple and got the job done. If I was going with your idea I would just put bronze wear plate that the rod could bump into. But I have found that for really small diameter areas a carbide burr in a wood router works wonders.