New to Axes

Joined
Mar 27, 2014
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406
I have been a vintage knife collector for years and would like to see if axe collecting can be as much fun. A couple of questions for you experienced collectors: I know a little about vintage Collins and vintage Kelly axes, not much, but it seems reasonable place to start because I have so much to learn. 1) Are those reasonable axe brands to start with? 2) Is it possible to put a mfg. date on axes? 3) I would think it would be better to find an axe with the original handle than to find an axe head and put a new handle in it? 4) I don't think I would like an axe that had been filed too much. How can you tell how deep, front to back, that an axe head should be? Or maybe I am wrong with each of these assumptions. Help!!
 
Kelly and Collins are good brands but Collins later axes are not as good as earlier ones. Also true with Kelly but not to as great an extent. It is possible to roughly age an axe based on the markings and look. Collins Legitimus is earlier than Collins in a rectangle for instance. Earlier axes look more hand forged and shaped while later axes are flatter, less polished, and more grinding marks. Original handles are good to find but cost more to ship. Study axe pattern diagrams and vintage unused axes to get your eye calibrated. Axes usually wear at the toe first, then the heel and they end up with a bit that's too rounded. Try to get axes that match the pattern diagrams. Of course look for mushrooming, deformed eyes and other excessive wear.
 
This site has tons of information about the makers of vintage axes:
http://yesteryearstools.com/Yesteryears%20Tools/Home.html

For example, if a Kelly axe is stamped Kelly Works, then it was made after Kelly was acquired by American Fork & Hoe in 1930. If the stamp says Kelly Axe & Tool Co., then it was made prior to this. Other brand markings can have similar, sometimes subtle, clues regarding the year of manufacture.

Vintage handles, if in good shape, are desirable, but not common. Many people here at the forum will look for undervalued old axe heads that aren't worn much, and restore them, putting them onto a new handle, and ending up with an axe having world-class quality and fit. Satisfying and rewarding (and it can be addictive).
 
Keep the old handles, and shape the new replacement handle to those. Slim, slender, and a joy to use the old handles are. (sound like yoda I do) look for as little mushrooming as possible on the poll, and thin straight bits. Also check around and do some research so you can learn axe terms. That will help massively. If you go onto to you-tube, and look up an axe to grind you will not be disappointed.
 
Kelly and Collins are good brands but Collins later axes are not as good as earlier ones. Also true with Kelly but not to as great an extent. It is possible to roughly age an axe based on the markings and look. Collins Legitimus is earlier than Collins in a rectangle for instance. Earlier axes look more hand forged and shaped while later axes are flatter, less polished, and more grinding marks. Original handles are good to find but cost more to ship. Study axe pattern diagrams and vintage unused axes to get your eye calibrated. Axes usually wear at the toe first, then the heel and they end up with a bit that's too rounded. Try to get axes that match the pattern diagrams. Of course look for mushrooming, deformed eyes and other excessive wear.

Great information. This does help a lot. Thanks!
 
I really do appreciate the great help you all are willing to share. Steve, that is a very helpful site, thanks. I think I will get the knack of this and it sounds fun. Thanks again all for the contributions.
 
Beware, this collecting and refurbishing of vintage axes can be addicting just like your vintage knives are. Just ask Charlie_K. "It followed me home" and "What did you rehang today" are both threads that will quickly help you develop an eye for quality vintage axes. Welcome.
 
Great thread. I do appreciate all of the really good advice. I will use it all because now I am pumped. Thanks again all
 
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