New to ESEE, questions...

TattooBlade

TattooBlade

Joined
Apr 4, 2009
Messages
1,347
I picked up an RC-4 a while back after reading lots of good things. I put it through some tests cutting, battoning, etc and it did great. It suffered some scuffing on the black coating, but other than that it did great.

The only issue is that I'm having trouble getting a great edge back on it. I've stropped it, stonned it, etc. What am I doing wrong? I thought the 1095 is suppose to be easy to sharpen. I have a few F1s and they are crazy sharp, so I can of use those as the bar when I compare blades.

Any advise to get my RC-4 up to speed? I'm now considering an RC-3 and maybe an RC-5, but haven't commited yet.

Thanks!
 
Do you find it better to strop or use a stone? Forward or backward stroke? I'm a newbie when it comes to sharpening, so any advice is greatly appreciated! Thanks
 
There is no secret for sharpening 1095. Just use the EXACT same method that you do for your "standard" F1's. Best feature about ESEE if u ask me. I like my buck vantage pro with CPM S30V, but i would hate to have to sharpen it in the field. You might want to learn to sharpen knives on a scandi ground knife. I was very inconsistant until I made myself freehand with my mora. The large bevel is kinda cheating but it allows you to develop a little proper muscle memory. YMMV.
 
Last edited:
I'm betting you have a wire edge or burr that's rolling as soon as you make your first cut.
strop the snot out of it (like 40 passes per side a couple of times) and see if that doesn't make a difference.
I'm not huge into hair whittling, but a few passes on an extra fine diamond is all it takes to bring mine back to shaving sharp.
 
Spyderco Sharpmaker seems to do the trick for all my ESEE's. I just strop it over some leather for the final touch. They stay razor sharp for quite a while after that.
 
I freehand all my knives over a Smith diamond bench stone (Fine grit). My ESEE 4 is a cakewalk, and the edge holds great. Sorry I can offer you nothing better than this. Good luck, enjoy the awesome blade.

God bless,
Adam
 
1066vik said:
I'm betting you have a wire edge or burr that's rolling as soon as you make your first cut.
strop the snot out of it (like 40 passes per side a couple of times) and see if that doesn't make a difference.
I'm not huge into hair whittling, but a few passes on an extra fine diamond is all it takes to bring mine back to shaving sharp.
Click to expand...

I was having issues with this. What's a reliable way to identify a wire edge. Hand loupe, finger nail test?
 
TrailWolf said:
Cover the edge with a sharpie then sharpen and see if you are hitting the edge...
Click to expand...

Nice idea, would have never thought to do that.

I am new to the sharpening bit...forgive me but I was working with one of those little $4 hand held for all my sharpenng needs...wrecked some blades in the process. Fortunatley I haven't owned to many quality blades until recently. I got the Lansky because it is guided, figured this was a good idea considering I am novice. Still picking up tips and ideas on how to improve quite often.
 
Yea I'm also new to the sharpening but I can vouch for the Spyderco Sharpmaker. I purchased it based upon recommendations here. It came with the DVD which was very helpful. After practicing on a few kitchen knives I moved to my HEST and Izula II. It gets the ESEE's scary sharp, and not too much of a learning curve. Good luck!
 
If you're not the best sharpener, I'd take a look at the Sharpmaker as mentioned.

A strop is for polishing an edge after you have sharpened it. If you've worn the edge much, you might need to hit it on a stone (using the sharpie trick if need be) to get it sharp, then finish it on the strop. With a strop you pull away from the edge as if you were cleaning the blade on the leg of your pants or something. The 4 is a great blade!
 
BenchmadeBoy said:
I was having issues with this. What's a reliable way to identify a wire edge. Hand loupe, finger nail test?
Click to expand...
very good question - wish I had a good answer.
generally if I run into a situation where the blade feels sharp but still won't cut right, i strop it a bunch and then start over.
sometimes I'll try cutting a piece of pine cross grain (slice, not chop) in hopes it will break off any residual wire edge.
 
BenchmadeBoy said:
.......What's a reliable way to identify a wire edge.......
Click to expand...

Run the pad of your index finger down/across the blade slowly from the spine across and off the cutting edge of the badge. Just before your finger loses contact with the blade you'll feel it catch just slightly if you have a wire edge. Bigger the wire edge the more you'll feel. Then do the same on the opposite side and you should feel no catching at all. Then you've determined what side is rolled.

Bob
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top