New to forum, questions about Para 3 s110v

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Mar 29, 2019
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Hi all!
I am new to forum, and relatively new to Spydies. I bought a Dragonfly 2 VG-10 at the end of the last year, then after that a Ladybug for my GF as a birthday present. She likes it, and carries it as often as she can. "It's always good to have a sharp knife with you", that's what she use to say. I was blown away by the fit & finish Spyderco did with these 2 knives, even though I know they are not on the top line of Spydercos. Razor sharp from out of the box, dead centered, smooth action. I was a little sceptic about the FRN handles until I got them in my hands. Hard, reliable material, no need to concern about them. And looks great I think. So I pulled the trigger on a Para 3 s110v. I've waited for it about 1.5 month to arrive, I finally got it this tuesday. Man, I'm really impressed. Razor sharp, smooth action, the best quality knife I ever had. I ordered a Work Sharp 2.2.1 field sharpener with diamond stones to keep it sharp all the time. I never done sharpening, but I am confident, have some budget steel knife I can practice on (440, and unmarked stainles steel). I know s110v is a whole other world then these steels, but I have to start somewhere. My plan is by the time my muscle memory got the sharpening process right, the Para 3 hopefully won't need a serious sharpening, maybe just some strops on leather or maybe on the 800 grit ceramic rod. It's not gonna see hard usage, only everyday basic tasks, but I wanted to try a real high end steel. So my question is after all this mambo-jumbo, do you guys think that the Work Sharp 2.2.1 will be enough to keep my beloved Para 3 sharp? I am not planning on reprofiling, factory edge is way enough for me, I just want to keep it razor sharp. I read this steel likes the course edge better than polished one, and I am happy with that.
 
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It should if you learn how to use it. Practice with the cheaper knives first. Form an apex and then make sure you remove the bur properly and you should be golden.

Was watching YouTube vids and forum posts on this tool http://www.washboardsharpening.com
And it could help you learn too. There are places that sell 3m diamond Lapping films and I assume you can use paper with diamond compounds or spray with it too.

But regardless of that the workshop will get you a good edge with the right technique.
 
S110V needs diamonds. The carbides won't be shaped by much of anything else.
 
Diamonds are essential for S110V. I found a DMT Dia-Sharp ultra coarse (220 grit) makes the sharpening process a lot faster on that steel with its very high carbide content -- it took seemingly forever to hone a new edge on my DMT red (600 grit) bench stone -- I use that for finishing. The Para-line is outstanding in both design and execution, one of Spyderco's best products (and they are all good) IMHO.
 
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